Woodworking, DIY Curved Beams? Learn how

hey guys welcome to the samurai carpenter we're back I'm going to show you what my new project is got this gorgeous little arched bridge but the only problem is the railing is kind of falling off so yeah I'm going to be replacing the railings maybe the whole bridge I don't know I'll have to see how rotten it is underneath there but yeah you can get a good view nice little arch yeah it's gonna be fun I'm going to teach you guys how to laminate up some curved beams for the top of the bottom handrails and maybe the whole thing and so yeah I'm gonna go over the shop and make up a jig to clamp up these beams we are this is my gorgeous pile of wood I'm going to be building new bridge railings out of you know and you might be looking at this beautiful pile of wood and you might you know if you don't do this for a living you might be experiencing some like warm feelings and your in your loins let's say I just want you to know that's it's not uncommon now there's nothing wrong with you what's happening is you're just experiencing your manhood being a real awakened kind of anticipation of the awesomeness that's about to take place with this wood so don't be alarmed just sit tight as you consistently engage your manhood those feelings will go away but for now just embrace it because it's a good thing all right so I've got my form built just use a piece of 3/4 inch plywood here screwed some solid blocks on three inch screws from underneath along my radius which I just traced from the old handrail here that's delaminating trace the underside of the curve you don't have something to template your curve off of just use a quarter inch strip of really clear straight grade wood no not tacky bail at the desired radius of your arch put a couple nails at each end bend your strip of wood around there put a nail on either side of the strips or doesn't spring back and it'll sit in the perfect arch give or take you know a couple millimeters or 60 or you can trace it out perfectly doing geometry and all that fancy math stuff but I just try and stay away from that because you know I'm a freestyle semi rat what I do so where they get out is put the plastic on here when I glue up all my layers there's obviously going to be squeezed out in the glue but I don't want to stick to my form because that would suck another thing to note is all the wood that I've used it's flat sawn wood vertical sawn wood is strong or when the grain is vertical so it's less it's going to be a little bit harder to band it'll still bend but ultimately the reason why I chose flats arms because along the edge especially with cedar you have nice straight grain lines so that when you bend it all together no one will even be able to tell that it's not one solid beam that it's actually glued lamination as long as I get my joints nice and tight lots of collapse when I plane this thing up it's going to look like a clear solid curved beam it won't look like a bunch of layers glued up you oh right stick to going to measure off of the top Rayleigh and even increment which in this case is 26 and three-quarter inches that we measure and every block then we have a parallel curve transferred down and as it transfers down the radius gets tighter right so it's not the same curve as that so I couldn't just glue my bottom rail in that mold or else they would look whacked out when I put them in together the radius has to get tighter as you get closer to the center of the circle right and so what it does is I rip my quarter inch strip like I had mentioned before it's got screws set on my marks and then I just bed my quarter inch strip so I got a nice even curve and trace this out then I screw my blocks on the here two plies I'm going to inch of the bottom rails on the inch and half thick so I'm just going to do two plies a 3/4 leave those up and then this side of the railing will be done the rest like it just cut out a bandsaw bla bla bla wait that's math she's all squared up the way I like it my theory about getting flats on wood so that all the edge grain looks like it's the same piece of wood and when it's laminated it looks like a real beam and not a laminated beep yeah that part of that I didn't the other clip yeah that's though did not work out at all why because this is western red cedar and every piece of wood is a different color or a combination of multiple colors and it just doesn't go together without looking like a rainbow so that little theory I had I came from well probably something I read but I tried it out with this piece of Doug Fir and you can see this is all laminated strips and it actually looks like one piece of wood at first glance because Douglas fir is a lot more uniform in color than red cedar so if you're gluing up beams out of Douglas fir this theory will work great if you're using red cedar don't bother just use whatever wood you got anyways that's how it's done guys skirt and rails curved beams whatever you want to curve just screw some blocks on a piece of wood put some glue on it clamp it up you're done you know this is my first time and generally I'm awesome at everything I do the first time but you know I'm confident that you could easily do this too because it's really not that hard so don't be intimidated by woodworking it's really not that hard if you're passionate about it you want to learn how to do it you're going to do it and you get to do it awesome alright enough said I'm going old subarray up oh yeah and a bonus tip just before I go I put this on here that's all the original template to see if I had sprung back a little bit which I thought I had and I did it sprung back maybe about a quarter of an inch you know so samurai let you down there goodness please so yeah my mistake is your game when you do your mole just add an extra eight through 3/16 on the end of your curve to account for the spring back because it's going to happen even if you're doing glulam beams anyways next time

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