Woodturning Project: Toothpick Dispenser (part 2) — WOOD Magazine

to make a place for the lid to fit into the body we're gonna start by hollowing with not a Halloween tool but a Forstner bit we'll use an inch and a quarter Forster bit installed into a drill chuck in the tail stock and we're gonna bore a hole about an inch deep it's not real critical right now how deep that is I've already slowed the lathe down to about 500 rpms perfect now we can make the lid fit you're gonna remove the tail stock adjust my two RS square across the end I've already sped the lathe back up to normal turning speed I'm just gonna use a square inch scraper making very small cuts about 1/32 of an inch at a time just pressing straight in move out a little bit further press in again stop we're the last cut stopped and I'm using that Tynan the little stub of that Tennant I left on there as a gauge for what diameter I need to turn to I need to go a little bit deeper all right that should work now I'll reinstall the tailstock remove the drill chuck with that Forstner bit and install a cone-shaped live Center I wanted to use a cone shape so I can Center into the small hole at the top of the lid tighten everything in place light pressure doesn't require a whole lot I just want to hold that lid in place and now I'll use a spindle gouge to finish shaping the top of the holder I can use the shape of the lid is a guideline and I want to make these two seamless so I'll just take light passes and it's okay if you cut on the lid a little bit that's why I didn't bother sanding and finishing that with the top formed will now work on the base the first thing I'll do is use my calipers to mark its length which is three and a half inches from this point right where it intersects the top and at that point it's an inch and a half in diameter I can use a parting tool and the calipers mark that diameter this material here is waste material now I'm using the parting tool to remove some of it to allow for more clearance with the roughing gouge with a roughing gouge I can shape the entire outside of the body you may choose to do this with a spindle detailing gouge but I find since there's so much material to remove the shape lends itself to working with strictly the roughing gouge just a matter of working from point A to point B it can be a little bit difficult to get a really crisp line up here at the top with the roughing gouge so I do like to use a spindle gouge there I also like to establish the exact length of the base I already have the line from earlier I'm gonna park down just slightly below that and now we can just finish the cut all the way to the base nice finish to find the bottom here I started with a little bit of a little bit of 180 sandpaper I'll switch to some 220 go to 320 and 400 I'll do those by hand beautiful okay now we can remove the lid remove the cone live Center from the tailstock and we'll put that inch-and-a-quarter Forstner bit back in place the drill bit inside the hole and I've already marked the depth on the bit with a piece of tape just going to bore to that depth we also already slowed those rpms down clear the shavings from time to time that's the finished depth of the hole I've sped the lathe back up and replaced the tool rest now I'll just use a thin parting tool to part the base off small cuts down each side with a thin partying tool like this sometimes it can take some extra pressure to hold it tight up against the shoulder and as you get down towards the base you can choose to cut this off with a saw if you like however simply place your fingers inside the hole let it fall off in your hand

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