Wall-hanging Router Bit Cabinet | Woodworking Project / Free Plans

– Hey everyone! My name is Matt, welcome to my shop. This time we're building this wall hanging display cabinet thing that I'm using to store all of the
router bits in my shop. It is very excessive with
a fancy, custom back panel, some through mitered dove
tails for the case joinery and a mitered frame
door on the front there. So, plenty excessive for something that's gonna be hanging in the shop. So a big thank you to MLCS Woodworking for sponsoring this
video, let's get started! So to get started with the actual planning for the cabinet and figure
out how big it needs to be and what it needs to store, we're gonna go through
all of my router bits and accessories and
kind of organize things and figure out what all has to go in here. So this is how I've been
storing my router bits up until now, I got a
nice box full of stuff. So all that stuff has
to go into a cabinet.

But what's really cool is MLCS sent out one of their multi-bit
sets, oop, that's foam, one of their multi-bit sets here, this is their 30 piece set which means that I can
basically get rid of the basic starter kits that I got when I first started working
like 10 or 11 years ago. A lot of these bits didn't
really cut that well to begin with, a lot of them are dull now. And a lot of them have
broken and just worn out over the years, so I can
kind of reduce things a little bit and have a full,
quality set in the cabinet. So after spending a few moments kinda laying things out
and getting a feel for what I have, I've realized two things. First off, I don't have
as many router bits as I actually thought,
and the other things is, these cases and things,
they take up a lot a space.

So it's gonna be nice to be
rid of all of those things. Now the idea with the cases
is that you always have the information for the bit, but in practice here, at least for me, I've never actually had these bits back in the actual cases,
and a lot of the times, I'm not sure which bit
goes to which case anyway and I've been surviving
just fine that way. So I'm not too worried
about not having the cases and it's gonna be nice to
not have all that extra crap here in the shop. And then of course,
besides this router bits, I do wanna store other
things in this cabinet that may be router-related or
maybe router table-related. So some of the bigger things I have are like the feather boards
for the router table, those can be stored in
this cabinet as well. So I'm thinking of having an
area below the bit storage maybe about six inches tall, that would allow me to
store these type of things.

Also I have a few other larger things like the wrenches for the router, the lift crank thing and a few larger bits that might be just nicer
to have in the case that I could store in that
lower kinda cubby area at the bottom of the cabinet. And then some of the other
bigger, non-router bit stuff is gonna be like the guide bushings. I also have this other set
here for my Triton router. So we just laying things out roughly. I can see how big I wanna make this thing. I'm using this box kinda of as an idea of what you can pack into a smaller area. So I'm thinking that this'll
be the total height here, this'll give me a six inch tall area at the bottom here to store
accessories and things.

And I'll have the bit rack above there. Now as far as the width, I'm gonna go a little bit wider, so I'm gonna go out to maybe 16 or 18 inches wide for the internal dimension of the case. And then the overall height is gonna be right about 28 inches. Now one more thing we can think about is the overall depth of this case. And for that, I can use this bit set as sort of a guide as well. So looking at it right now,
maybe about two inches deep will get you this single
row, but I'm thinking if I wanna have two rows of stuff chilling in here, maybe
at three and a half to four inches deep on
the internal would be just about right for that.

So here's my overall plan, so I have my outside dimensions which I need to actually make my lumber and then I wanna think about
the width of the pieces I'm gonna need for the sides. So I want my four inch depth, I'm gonna have a half inch back panel and then I also wanna put a door on here, so that's gonna be a
three-quarter inch thickness. So that's a total depth
of five and a quarter.

And that's really all the information that I need to get
started on this project. So for the materials for this, I have this piece of elm,
this is from the same log that I made my tool cabinet out of. So this cabinet should match
that one really nicely. Now if you look at the end here, this is from the outside of the log so we have mostly a flat
sawn piece of wood here which is actually pretty
great for this project. Now I'll give you some
nice traditional sort of cathedral patterns for
the sides of the case. And then the edges of the board are going to be closer to quarter sawn so it's gonna give me a
lot of nice straight grain material out here, so what I can do is actually cut the sides from out here and then slice this into actual boards and have pieces for the doors which are going to be more quarter sawn and I can use the flat
sawn stock for the case.

Now the other nice thing about this is that it is 10 quarter,
so I'm able to resaw the sides and the top and bottom out of one piece, so what I can do here is have a continuous grain
wrap around the entire case which isn't all that necessary
for something like this where you're not gonna see
the top and bottom that often but it's just kind of
a fun technique to do if you have the opportunity
to do two sequential boards or a thicker piece that you can cut two sequential boards out of.

So I can clip this end right here and this'll become the case side. And this'll become the
case bottom up to here and that'll give me all the
stock for the main case. As far as the width goes,
I've got plenty of width here even with this wane, that can come off because my final case can
come up to be about here and then I can resaw this into strips which'll give me the stock for the door. (power tools running) So I'm gonna go ahead
and start cutting stuff and breaking it down into
the individual parts.

And before I process the main board into the sides, top and bottom, I'll resaw, or basically just rip off, the strips that will become
the stock for the doors. This piece of elm, being close
to the outside of the log, has a bunch of these kind
of burly type of inclusions in it so it's kind of
a cool piece of wood. So it should make a
pretty nice little cabinet just hanging up on the wall.

So these boards have
been sitting in the shop for a few weeks, I did some epoxy fills on the cracks and little
knot-holes down here. So those are kinda taken care of and out of the way. So now at this point, it's time
to start building this thing which is crazy, super exciting! (power tools running) So, these boards are gonna go through the entire milling process once again, bring them back into flat, bring
'em down to final thickness they'll get ripped down final width and then I can start cutting them down to final length for the case sides and the top and bottom. So since we're going for
a continuous grain wrap on this case, the only thing
I really need to make sure I keep in mind when making the cuts to make all of the pieces that are here is that one of the sides
will be from the right side of one board and one of the
sides will be from the left side of one board, so as I
am separating the pieces with my stop block, I'll
often do is make sure I'm kinda rotating things end-for-end so I make sure I keep
that alignment perfect as the grain wraps all the
way around the entire box.

So now we're gonna start
doing some joinery on here and for this, I'm gonna
use the same joinery that I used on the hand tool cabinet here. A mitered through dovetail
because, you know, a shop furniture has to match! And stuff. (laughs) So these mitered through dovetails start with cutting the tailboard and I'll do that at the
bandsaw with an angle jig that way I can really
quickly and repeatedly make all the same cuts
on all of the pieces, or I guess, the two sides,
since I'll have the tails on the side of the case, and I can go through
and make all of the cuts for all those tail pieces all at once with one fence setting and
I'll have nice, consistent symmetrical tails between all the parts. I'm going to omit the
front corner at this point because that's gonna be mitered and that'll have to be cut by hand.

Then back at the bench, I
can do a little clean up work to get rid of all the waste
from between the tails and then I can start working
on cutting the actual miter which is gonna start off
by cutting the last tail. That's gonna be cut from the inside and it's gonna be cut from the scribe line up to the outside corner. (hand saw noises) Once that cut is made, the
actual miter can be cut and then a guide block
with a chisel can be used to clean up the area and
make it a perfect 45. So that takes care of the tailboard.

Now that can be transferred
over to the pinboard and that pinboard can be cut as well. I cut the pins, I always
do that with a hand saw and I use the bandsaw to remove
the majority of the waste. And then the remaining
waste can be cleaned up right back to the scribe
line with the chisel. (power tool noises) The last little detail on here is to miter that first
pin, so make it rough cut with the hand saw and
then use the guide block with the chisel again
to pare the area back and make it perfect to
it matches up nicely with the tailboard.

(hammer noises) So the box for the case is all joined and assembled and the
next thing for this thing is gonna be to get the rabbit
cut for the back panel. But I don't know how thick
the back panel is yet 'cause I haven't made it yet and I wanna do something kinda
interesting for the back. And get rid of some scraps. So I have this scrap of half inch plywood. I also have this off-cut
from the guitar blank that I made when I made a
guitar over in the U.K., I trimmed a guitar so I
have this interesting piece of silver maple which has
some interesting figure and curl and I'm gonna
saw this into some veneers and see what I can do with that. Maybe I can make some kinda cool pattern or some kind of goofy thing out of it. Don't really know yet, but I
know the back panel's gonna be this wood and it's gonna be attached to that piece of plywood somehow and the first step to that
process is bandsaw time! So I'll see you on the other side of doin' a bunch of veneer sawing.

(power tool noises) So this is kinda the goofy pattern I came up with, I got a
little book match over here and I have this kinda live edge thing going on over here. I think I might take this little chunk off of here and kinda
fill in some of this area. I might put a piece of this over here. I'm a little bit over width
and I'm over length as well so I can kinda play
with this a little bit.

But yeah. The first thing that's gonna happen here is I have to get the book match pair, I have to get that seam put
together a little bit nicer, get 'em glued together,
and then this can all be veneered down to this panel whenever I kind of figure
out a final layout. So while the glue sets up on that, let's make a backing veneer
for the back side of the panel. I have this little strip
of ash that's leftover from when I did my
hardwood flooring project, not gonna become anything too exciting.

It's been like this for a few years, so it might as well face
the back of this cabinet and just face the wall
for the rest of its life. So I can cut the stuff into rough length and then spend some time at the bandsaw, resawing it into strips
and I'll take those down to the same thickness as the
veneer for the front side. So I think it's gonna be easiest
to press these separately. Since this obviously
covers the entire thing and the front side is gonna
have a lot of goofiness to it. So I'm gonna do this one first, I'll get some glue applied down to the substrate, stick the veneer down, throw it in the vacuum
bag and we'll come back and take a look at it in a little bit. (vacuum suction noise) So I've played around with
the layout a little bit, we're still both oversized
in this direction and this direction, and I'm thinking the trimming cut to width
is gonna come in somewhere right here, so it's going
to basically square up this kind of glob thing over here and you know, make it more like this.

So I think from here, I'm
really happy with the way this is all laid out
and I'm gonna go ahead and start sticking each piece down. I'm just gonna apply glue
to little tiny veneers individually and stick 'em down in place as work through the process,
sticking each one down so I hopefully don't lose the
positioning of all of these. Although I could always go
back and look at the video but if I can do it
without having to worry, then I'll do it that way. So I'ma start with this big one, get that one stuck down,
and then I'll stick down all of the small pieces all around it and then we can throw this
thing into the vacuum bag. (vacuum suction noise) So it'll have to sit for a while just to make sure all
of the excess moisture from the glue has had time to escape. I just trimmed this thing down
closer to its final width.

So we're getting down
a little bit in size. And I think there might be something wrong with my brain because when
I did the back for this, I thought I had made it actually wider than I needed, but apparently I didn't, so I'm gonna have to like
glue on some more ash on the back a here, but well, whatever. That's just how it goes, I guess. But you know where this is headin' next, we're gonna do a really
thin epoxy pour in here and fill in all of that
dead space, 'cause yeah.

(laughs) So I contain all the epoxy,
I'm gonna wrap the edge in some sheathing tape and
then start mixing up the resin. This is not a thick pour
so I don't have to use a slow-setting resin for this. We're only an eight of an inch thick, but I am gonna put a significant
amount of pigment in there because I don't wanna see down and see the birch plywood underneath, I wanna really dark look. I am gonna add a little
bit of Micropil in there to give a little bit more of
a metallic kinda look to it. Just to give it a little more interest than just a really dark,
solid color for the epoxies. So I'm really excited about
the way this is gonna look, I think it's gonna make
a really bold statement as the back panel of this cabinet.

So I think that should look pretty awesome once it's totally done. I think next thing for me is going to be to take the back panel through the entire finishing process so I don't have to
worry about it any more. So I'm gonna go ahead and trim
it down to rough final size, probably still a little
bit bigger than it will be. I'll trim it to final size
once the rabbits are cut in the case and then I can take it through the entire finishing process and yeah, that should be pretty cool to see all this wood come to life. It's gonna make a pretty
darn awesome back panel. I think I'm also just gonna
leave the ash on the back as is with the strip that's kinda missing 'cause it's back of the cabinet and I'm not really that
concerned about it.

Now that the back panel is completed, we know its final
thickness, we can go ahead and start making the rabbits which are gonna house it
in the back of the case. So a couple of these
rabbits are gonna be stopped so that way the rabbit does
not show on the outside of the case, and actually
because of the size of the rabbit and my tail layout, I
actually should do stop cuts on the other two pieces as well so I don't actually clip
the corner of my tails.

So I have marks transferred
up onto my fence which show me where the blade
enters and exits the table so I know where to start and stop. (hand tool noises) All right, our case is all ready to go, I finished sanding the
inside of this thing, so let's go ahead and get it glued up. (hammer noises) So next I'm gonna add the
horizontal divider in here that will divide up the two kinda areas and I might kick myself for doing this but I'm gonna use this high
temp thoroughly modified ash which has a high tendency
of chipping and tear out, so that should be an
interesting adventure.

So this divider is going to
be a stopped sliding dovetail, it's gonna slide in from the back and you're not gonna
see it from the front. So it's purely a structural joint, probably overkill for something this small but it's really gonna lock
the two sides together, keep them from bowing away from each other and help them from coming
out of their dovetail sockets which this modern glue is not a huge deal, but anyway, we're gonna start
making the actual socket with the dovetail bit in the router. We'll come in here and we'll stop probably about an inch or
so back from the front edge. We're gonna have the
thickness of the door there. Thinking 10 width, so
we don't want the bar to go into that area. And since this is gonna be stopped, we wanna stop a little
bit before that too, so probably more like
inch and a quarter or so from the front, this is
not gonna be super long sliding dovetail by any means. So with the dovetail slots all cut now I can work on getting the
shelf or divider installed.

So take my rough stock and run it through the milling process to bring it into flat, square it up, and just get it to rough width. And then to cut it to final length, I'll reference that length
directly off of the case and then make that cut
to get the final length on that part. I'll also make a few
scrap pieces essentially from the stock, so I have some test pieces or set-up pieces for
cutting the sliding dovetail on the router table. I'll dial in the fit
with those scrap pieces at a table and then I can
run the actual workpiece across the router bit to
create that sliding dovetail on the end of the divider. Now importantly, I left
this piece wide for now, that way if I do have
any tear out or blow out of the exit side of the dovetail cut, I could remove that by
ripping this thing down to final width. So four tries to the perfect fit, I think that's pretty average for me.

Sometimes I get it in two,
but, four is probably typical. So we have one little detail to do on here before this actually fits in here. Which is gonna be to notch
up part of the dovetail so that it'll lapse over the case and slides all the way in. So in my case, I need to
lap off a eight of an inch, nope, five-eights of an inch. So I have the blade here set
to be five-eights of an inch off the sled and I'll
make a cut kinda close to the shoulder, pop that block off, and then I'll probably do a little bit of clean-up work over at the bench and this guy should be good
to go into that dovetail slot. So this thing is all ready to go in, just break in the edges here, this is finished, prepped and ready to go.

I am going to use an
epoxy for this glue up for one big reason, if
you've spent the time to make this a nice piss and fit, and you use a PVA glue,
the water in that glue is going to swell the fibers in here and it's gonna make your piss and fit turn into a way-too-tight fit. So an epoxy or another
non-water-based glue is not gonna swell those fibers and actually help lubricate things as you bring 'em together.

Now the fit on a sliding
dovetail is especially important because if it is too loose, what can happen is, the
piece coming in here can actually be pulled that way. If it gets pulled in that direction, you're gonna open up a gap
at the base of the dovetail as well as at the very bottom there. So you actually need a really,
pretty much perfect fit in order for this to look
good basically forever. All right, let's see what happens! That is actually a lot
easier than it used to be. (laughs) Thank you, epoxy! (hammer noises) There we go, so we should
be able to leave that thing that's sitting flush with the back, and then I'll leave the
right amount of gap down here for our door! So I'm gonna clean this up real quick, the other nice thing about
epoxy is the fact that it's not gonna interfere
with a clear finish. So if I smear the epoxy around right now, not a huge deal because
that kinda staining will actually blend into the finish and you'll never know that it
was technically glue stained in the first place.

So I will leave this sitting
here overnight to cure and then we can move on from here. All right, check that out! I think this is gonna look really nice. The contrast in here is yeah, it's lookin' real good. I put a quarter sawn
edge towards the front, so it's got some ray fleck there which we'll see if we
get some finish on here, I think it's gonna look
really nice with the elm, so I'm happy with that contrasting
combo match thing there. So next, let's make a door to go in here so you remember these guys? Let's make a door out
of these little off cuts or trimming parts from that original slab. So I can take these through
the milling process, get them brought down
into square, flatten, all that good stuff. Take them down to final width. And then I'm actually gonna
make a mitered door for this. I think the mitered look on the door frame is gonna match really nicely
with the mitered corner of the dovetails, we have
a nice 45 degree angle kind of translating from
the outside of the case through to the inside corner of the door and I think it's gonna look real nice.

Now this is also going to be a glass door, or I guess a polycarbonate or acrylic or a whatever I decide to put in here. So I'm gonna need a rabbit
in these pieces as well, so once those miters are all cut on there, I can run a rabbit on the inside edge to hold the glass and a retaining strip and then we can be ready
for a little bit of joinery. The frame looks like it's
fitting together really nicely. It is sized to be about
an eight of an inch bigger in both directions than the opening, that way I can trim it down
to fit perfectly in there. And before gluing up, I'm
gonna reinforce the connections with some floating tendons also known as dominoes.

Another option here for reinforcement would be a spline, but I don't
want an exteriorly visible piece of joinery on this frame. So an internal thing like this which is gonna be totally hidden, is what I'm gonna go with! And once those mortises are all cut this frame is ready for glue up. (clamp gears winding) While the glue is drying
on the door frame, I'ma start working on
the hinge mortises here on the case, so I have some
nice precision butt hinges from Horton Brasses here which I'll use to hang the door.

So to lay out the actual
location of the mortise, I know I want this
hinge to be on the door, basically down the style,
the thickness of the rail so this is the stock for the door. So that puts this hinge right here. So I'm just scrabble 'round this guy. And then I'll set the
depth going into the case with a marking gauge. And exactly the same thing down here. Now I can just excavate
that material with a router and then chop back to the lines. Now one thing you might notice or be thinking, is that
the hinge on the bottom is pretty close to that lower divider, so it's probably gonna be
impossible to get the router all the way in there and
mortise for that hinge. That is absolutely true,
what I could have done was mortise for these
hinges before the case was glued up, but I figured
I would do it the hard way to show you that it's not really that hard to mortise one of these
things with a little bit of hand tool work and
in situations like this, if you know how to mortise by hand, these situations won't be scary at all.

Don't be too afraid of hand tools. They may save your butt some day. So with that out of the way,
I think kinda the next thing is gonna be fitting
this door into the case and before I do that, I
wanna install the back. That way if the back is
gonna tweak that case at all, it's gonna do that and
then I'll have the case in sort of its final shape
before fitting the door.

So the back just needs to be
trimmed down to final size and then it can be screwed in to the case. (drilling sounds) So this is gonna look pretty darn awesome. I am getting excited for real this time. So I think the last major thing to do is to get this door hung on this case. So it is oversized a little bit right now so I'm gonna go through and
get this thing trimmed up, get it fitting nicely
inside of the opening and then from there,
course do some mortising for the hinges into the door and then this thing'll be
swinging in its opening. So at this point, the door is
still a little bit oversized in the opening, and I
haven't set the gaps yet except for one, I have
enough space on this side, just gonna set the gap over here because that's where the hinge is gonna go and once the hinge gets mortised in there, we're not gonna be able to change that without having to alter the mortise depth.

So that one's all ready to go. So with it fitting in here, and I just have it tight
up against the side, I can mark the locations of the mortises onto the door styles and
then lay out those mortises and then just rout out and
chop back some of those lines to establish the mortises
for those hinge leaves in the door. Very much like how we already mortised for the hinge mortises in the case. The only difference now is I have a little bit more room to work. So now we're gonna pop some screws in here and these hinges are gonna
come with steel screws as well as the final
installation brass screws. So I'll use the steel screws now to essentially just widen up the hole, get the threads cut into the wood, so that when we do the final installation, the brass screws don't have
a whole lot of work to do and that's 'cause they
are a lot more brittle and have a higher tendency of breaking.

So now I just have this
gap here to contend with to make sure it's looking
good all the way around. So my gap over here actually
worked out really nicely, it's sized correctly, this was the same as it is over here, which looks good. The top needs a little bit of tweaking and the bottom needs a
little bit of tweaking. So over here, the gap looks pretty good, but as you get over here, though, it kinda goes away to nothing so there is something goofy going on here but we can adjust that
really quickly with the plane so I can pull the door
out, plane that edge a little bit to straighten up that gap and then the gap should be
fit nicely all the way around.

All right, that's looking a lot better. Nice and even all the way through here, all the other gaps
match, I think this thing is ready for a little bit of finish. So I'm gonna take this thing apart, get the door and the case all
sanded and finished, prepped, break all the edges, all that stuff. And then throw on a few coats of finish. So the cabinet is mounted to the wall and for that, I used some lag shields since I have a concrete
block construction wall here, so those just get mounted into some holes and then the whole
cabinet can be lag bolted into those lag shields. Now the biggest consideration
with this setup is kind of putting the
mounting hardware in a place that's gonna be covered
by whatever's gonna go into this cabinet, so I positioned mine to be covered by my bit holders which are very easily constructed because that's the mood I'm in right now.

So to start those off, I
ripped a bevel on the back edge of one of these things so sort of lean out from the case a little bit to make 'em easier to
pull the bits in and out so a nine degree bevel was
ripped onto the main block, the blocks were cut the length and they could lay out and
drill a bunch of holes in 'em for all the bits. The half inch bits, I went
a little more conservative on the number of holes,
for the quarter inch bits I basically turned my mounting
block into Swiss cheese and went a little crazy and
drilled a lot more holes in that one, that's gonna
give me the maximum amount of re-configurability and all of that but I'm not too worried about
the half inch one either because I can always pull these things out and drill more holes if I really need to.

That's the nice thing
about being so simple. It's very easy to change
things in the future. Now I'm gonna mount these
things into the cabinet, I made myself some mounting
blocks out of some scrap walnut, again a 90 degree bevel
ripped onto one edge it's gonna make it line
up to the back edge of the bit holders, and
then a nice counter sunk through hole through that block which will allow me to
put a screw through there and screw the whole assembly
to the back of the case. Those blocks just get
glued onto the bit holders and then I can throw some finish on them to make 'em look a little nicer. This is some leftover
thoroughly modified ash that I had from my outdoor bench. So I used some teak oil on it 'cause I have a lot of
that leftover as well from that project.

So now, all I have to do is
get these things installed. I have two screws to install and then I can actually
start putting the actual bits into all these holders. So the bits are all in, and that's lookin' a lot nicer. I also made some little blocks
for various little bits, I might have accessories with them such as the rabbiting bit here, or over here would be collet blocks. These are just blocks of wood with various things pounded into them to act as little studs for things. So that might be a scrap
piece of brass bar stock or a stainless steel nail, or in the case of the collet holder, that is a 7018 rod that's
like partially burnt from the trailer build.

So with everything in
here and ready to go, let's get the door
finished up and installed. So I just cut this piece of
plexiglass to fit in here. I also made these retaining
strips out of some scraps so these'll be installed with some screws and these retaining strip will hold this piece of plexiglass in place. And should look kinda nice. Okay, so that's lookin' pretty nice. You can see I had to shim
the case a little bit to get the door to close flush because my wall is not flat so I was tweaking the case, if I'd had to screw it
directly to the wall, just something weird with
concrete block walls. Anyway, I need a knob on here now so I can actually open this thing. So I got this nice little knob here from Horton Brasses as well and I'm gonna put that
centered in the style I was with, and I'm gonna
put it just a little bit off center, just a little
bit higher towards the top.

Pop a quick hole in the
door, install this knob, and that should be just about it. So my original plan was
to mount a magnet here on the divider which would
act as a catch for the door, but I think it stays closed
by itself well enough that I'm not gonna even bother. So I've had this thing set up here in the shop here for a few weeks now and it is just amazing to
have everything organized in one place. I found myself actually
putting things away which is kind of the biggest challenge of a shop organization thing. First of all, having a place to put it and then actually putting things back. But because it's so easy
to actually put things back in here, I actually do it. And that's what really
matter when it comes to shop organization is you can build all the organization things you want, but if you don't put it back, then what's the point of
having any organization at all? So if you wanna build
your own wall hanging display cabinet to display whatever it is you wanna display, I do
have a full set of plans, we have a cut list available for free over on my website,
there'll be a link to that down in the description and
also be the links down there to the supplies and products that I used in this video.

So I am super happy with the
way this thing turned out. It is very nice to look at in the shop and again, all my stuff
is nicely organized which is a huge plus for me. So again, a big thank
you to MLCS Woodworking for sponsoring this video, definitely check them out for all your router bits
and woodworking supply type needs and things like that, there's a link to their website down in the description. So that's gonna do it for this one, thank you as always for watching, I greatly appreciate it, if any questions or comments
on the router bit cabinet or anything here in my shop, please feel free to leave me a comment as always I'd be happy
to answer any questions you might have, until next time! Happy woodworking!.

As found on YouTube

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