Using the Shapeoko CNC with Easel

Hi all this is the MakeHaven 
badging video for the Shapeoko so in the shapeoko is a CNC router that means 
it's computer numerically controlled that's   controlled by the computer so anytime where you 
want something done that would be difficult to   do by hand either because you want to be really 
precise or it's a cool design or something that   requires milling with a bit in a way that would be 
difficult by hand this this could be the tool of   choice so for example if you wanted to make 
a perfect circle without drilling a hole in   the middle for a jig on the bandsaw would be one 
example or you wanted to do a name in a cutting   board or you wanted to do an inlay these are all 
examples of when you might need to use this photo   there's some examples around this is one where 
the bit cut down and then it was filled with   resin to make a sort of in length these are some 
others where there is a walnut veneer on plywood   in using the bit you can cut through the veneer 
and then it pops so there a lot of different   uses the the mill part of the CNC or CNC router 
name means that the bits that it's using can cut   down but they can also cut sideways so versus a 
normal drill bit they can only cut up and down   these can cut sideways too so that's that's what 
this is the size of the bed of the cutting area   is about 30 inches by 31 inches so that's kind 
of the biggest footprint you can work with and   there's no variable speed control which means 
that you just pick the speed that's where you   get and for the most part let's say for the vast 
majority cases that's totally fine so in terms of   controlling it we are gonna use this computer and 
it uses a program called easel which is web-based   which is really nice because that means you can 
do all your designing outside either on some of   the make human computers or on your own computer 
and then just log in here and get them and that's   nice because then you know your computer doesn't 
need to get dusty and sit here while this is doing   this thing so we'll look at how easel here if 
the computer isn't on then I'll just turn on   I'll go to Google Chrome it looks like there's 
even a link right there but I'm just gonna go to   easel and it brings us to Inventables and we'll 
click on explore easel and now it already logged   us into the make Haven account and so this is 
just a general account that you're more than   welcome to use if you just want to make something 
quickly but if you want to bring in something from   your own account and you'll want to make a free 
account with Inventables so that you can make it   on your computer and then log in here so we'll 
just click on new project so the workspace that   we have has a bunch of cool things so this is 
where we do our designing and this dotted line   shows the size of our work piece and over here 
on the right side is a simulation showing our   work piece and so whatever we do inside these 
dotted lines will show up over here we'll start   from the beginning so you're gonna choose your 
material so here you choose the type of material   and its dimensions so to type we have a piece 
of wood here that's oak and we'll try to find   oak in this list and I don't see oak but it's 
similar to soft maple so we'll just choose that   and that just helps inform the computer what 
kind of settings choose for how quickly it   should move and then in terms of the dimensions 
it looks like about eighteen inches by six to me so X is the dimensions side to side and then 
Y is the dimension for and backwards and Z   that thickness is the down so this is pretty 
important so we'll just measure this to make   sure and there's three quarters of an inch so here 
we'll select three quarters 0.75 we're good to go   and so now this piece of what here represents 
the piece of wood we have on the table and the   leader will look at these other settings so in 
terms of what we can do here there are a bunch   of things you can choose from to make our design 
this is one example of taking a bunch of different   shapes and putting them together so zoom in so 
we can see more easily what's going on here so   you can see that this is a box of a bunch of 
other shapes added to it and we'll just we'll   just delete what they made because just make it 
ourselves so we have different shapes here and so   the shapes even for example is square and with a 
square you choose the depth of cut so because we   told it that our materials three quarters of an 
inch that's the deepest you can go that would cut   all the way through so you can see the simulation 
as a whole there or we can go half way through and   now it's if we zoom in here you see there's just 
like a little dent little cutout there but not   going all the way through so that's if you want 
to cut in a fill so fill means we will cut out all   the material on the inside outline means it'll 
cut just on that line that we made but then we   have a choice when you do the outline of whether 
to do on the paths that bit is gonna follow the   square that we drew outside that means it will 
leave a hole in the shape of the square that we   drew or inside and so then on outside will be the 
line that we drew and that may seem trivial but   that can be very important depending on what your 
trying to do then some of the things you can do   or click Edit points so what that means is that 
you can take these points and move them around   so this makes it kind of like a like Inkscape or 
something or illustrator where you have sort of   the vector editing capabilities you just drag 
this points around and make it whatever shape   you want you can also tell it say for this corner 
to make it curved so it's a curved point then you   can do it like that and then we're gonna click 
on shape and this the first option under shape   is the position and so we're gonna zoom back 
out here and so this is X the x coordinate is   our y coordinate and right now when we have this 
shape it's talking about the lower left corner of   the shape so it's putting an imaginary box around 
this weird shape and we made and saying that the   lower left-hand corner there's an exposition 
of 0.5 it's right about here and a Y position   of 0.6 which is there so it's saying that the 
corner of this shape is right about here that   could be useful but let's say we wanted it to be 
a little so you wanted to refer to the middle of   the shape which is right there so let's say 
we wanted to get circles or something where   the middle mattered and then you can say we want 
the middle of it to be 3 inches and 2 inches high   and so that's that's one we've controlling the 
position if you want to be more precise about the   position of your of your design on your workpiece 
and then the size this allows you to just scale   it up and down so you can lock it here let's say 
we want to make the width actually 3 and now just   make the whole thing bigger you can rotate it 
and those those are most of the choices there   and then for each shape they're pretty similar 
might be sound like a star yep no that's that's   the same too so for the shapes that's that's how 
it works for the line tool you just draw points there we go so you click escape together to 
recognize your line and then same deal for   drill let's say you want to drill holes in your 
piece so you can mark exact you want those where   you want those holes to be and it will drill 
a hole right into it text there's another good   one that gets used a lot and so here you have 
your text same idea with whether you want it to   be outline or fill I think this is a good point 
to start talking about the bits that we're gonna   be using so let's zoom in on this word text let's 
say we use a really big bit for cutting this out   it won't be able to get in this corner because the 
bit is a circle and so if it's a big circle it's   not gonna be you be able to make that nice crisp 
corner so we need to just figure out how crisp you   want it to be so that means if you wanted to be 
really crisp use a really small bit but that means   it'll take a while so that's a balance you need to 
sort of figure out we can look at over here where   how you make that choice that was point one five 
inches and that means that's the diameter of the   bit but here we can select the most common types 
so here is one thirty seconds is a pretty small   bit and then one-sixteenth one-eighth these are 
all up cut bits so even gives a little description   here but an up cut bit is gonna spin and pull 
the chips out of the hole and what that means   is it's good for getting the dust out it's good 
for cutting quickly but it's gonna leave kind of   a rough finish up if the top edge is just hearing 
the material out so the other kinds of bits are   down cut bits so that's gonna be worse at getting 
the chips out but it'll give a smoother finish on   the top a rougher finish on the bottom that's a 
trade-off then there is a whole world of kinds   of bits or compression bits that are up cut and 
down cut there are straight cut bits there v cut   bits in case you want to just do some lettering or 
something where you just and conveniently there's   a little shopping cart right next to it so you can 
you can buy them right from them in general what I   do is I just type in the diameter because that's 
the most important piece so let's say we're using   a quarter inch bit you're just pretty big you'd 
put in point two five and now you have a 0.25 inch   bit so if you were to go out and buy bits on your 
own it would be kind of annoying to wait and pay   for shipping so we have a few bits here for sale 
so those are over here these CNC bits are we have   a few sizes I think they are all up spiral bits 
so these look like quarter inch and their eighth   and sixteenth inch bits so you can pay at the cash 
box by the 3d printers or at   and here they're the prices so it's like $6 four 
sixteenth 8 for a quarter and twelve for a quarter   inch and so that's one option where you can get 
them yourself or in this box we just have some   public spares that have been left over so you're 
welcome to pick among these so we'll look more at   those ones we actually put the bit in the machine 
but the point we were trying before is that right   now we put a bigger bit in here so right now we 
made it a quarter inch and we'll see what happens   here so and you can see that the letters look 
pretty mushy and we'll take this text and make   it smaller just to exaggerate this point so here 
if I made a text really small and then we go and   zoom in here we'll click simulate so simulates 
in this lower right hand corner and it's going   to see what its gonna look like and you can see 
that the word text doesn't even show up because   our quarter inch bit is too big to fit inside of 
those letters but if we made the word text bigger   then it starts to show up but you can see that 
it doesn't look great like you can't get into a   little bit of the e most of the t so let's say we 
wanted to look better we would then try using say   an 8 inch bit and click on here and now now it 
looks a lot better is that eighth inch bit can   get in there still doesn't have the sharp corners 
the rounded corners cuz it's a rounded bit and   then to the extreme we could use like a 32nd inch 
bit and now that starts to look much more like it   looks here so you can see the trade-off though is 
that the time is going to take much longer and the   way that we get around that is by clicking this 
plus button and then it lets us use the detail of   it the the bigger bit is going to be taking out 
most of the material that's this one and then   the detail bit the smaller one that's going to be 
doing just the detail work is this one so here we   it has to be smaller bit obviously because it's 
just doing the detail stuff and so that can be a   way of getting both the detail and saving yourself 
time so that's that's kind of how the bits section   works then we're gonna finish up the things over 
here so icons nothing crazy icons and then these   are pretty cool so these are apps and here these 
are like little programs within easel they'll let   you do neat things instead of figuring out all 
yourself so for example for an inlay you would   make your design and then click on this app and it 
would make the two cutouts so you need one cut out   to cut out your material it's going to be going 
in your for example cutting board and then your   other one is going to be doing the the part that's 
removing the wood the negative piece and so this   automatically does that for you instead of you 
trying to have to figure out how to make those   to match up so it's just that there's a little 
video here to show you what that means so we'll   make these two pieces so you'll cut out one half 
cut out the other and then you have this little   piece and it fits in just like that there's a box 
maker so this is a pretty good one if you just   want to make a quick box with shapeoko puzzles 
mazes spinet fidget spinners so these are fun   to poke through a feature in easel that's really 
useful it's called tabs and that is under the cut   settings so if we have something like this text 
right now we're not cutting all the way through   but if we were to cut all the way through then 
the the middle of the tee would be totally loose   and would come flying out and the bit could break 
it could come flying out it's all kinds of bad so   these little tabs these little yellow things pop 
up and what they are little raised pieces of wood   so the bit will come along come up over and down 
so it will still be attached by a little piece   of wood and when you're done you can just use a 
little razor blade or something to cut through   the tab and over here you can control whether or 
not you want it to use the tabs the length of them   right now they're a quarter inch point zero eight 
inches high which is good for most things but if   you have like a warpy material on point the weight 
might not get through you can increase it and here   you can control the quantity so let's say for 
here we had a bunch more letters we would need   more tabs to get to all those letters and you 
want to make sure that your tabs are covering   all the little bits and pieces so the middle of 
the E here is gonna come flying out so you need   to make sure that there's a tab that's gonna 
hold that piece of the e in there and similar   over here so that's pretty important to make sure 
that all the pieces stay where you want them to   stay that's like one of the most common ways for 
a cut to fail on the shapeoko and then last but   certainly not least is importing so let's say you 
had an SVG a vector file you could import it right   in here and then it would use that line to trace 
you can import G code so let's say you use fusion   360 and or SolidWorks and wanted to import that G 
code into here then you would click G code to go   in that to go into that a little more deeply this 
machine using ezel has 2.5 dimensions of movement   or axis of movement so that means is that it can 
move x and y totally fluidly but if you wanted   to do things at two different layers you would 
have to set them here so we could have our text   for example at a quarter inch and then this line 
all the way through but that bit would move around   and then go to a different depth and move around 
if it wouldn't make smooth curves between those   different depths that would be fully three axis 
of movement so ezel doesn't do that but if you   wanted to do that you can do it in something like 
fusion 360 or SolidWorks and then you would use   their cam program so CAD computer-aided design 
lets you design it and then cam is pewter aided   machining which actually comes up with the G code 
and G code is what tells these motors what to do   and so you can use and then ezel as CAD and cam 
put together so using something like SolidWorks   you could come up with that code the G code and 
import that directly into here and then that would   get rid of all these options and is just going to 
do exactly what you tell it to do so you need to   make sure that you're feeling pretty good about 
what you tell it because if you tell it to run   right off the side it's gonna try to do that if 
you tell just your straight down it's gonna do   that because it's just listening to whatever you 
tell to do so that's importing another cool one   is image trace so let's say you have an image 
and you want to try to use it in the shapeoko   it will try to trace it for you which is similar 
to like a vector trace feature in Illustrator or   Inkscape and then you can import a DXF file so 
those are the options here then we're going to   go and look quickly at our cut settings before we 
go over to actually getting this thing started so   cut settings are how it cuts so it gives us these 
recommended settings feed rate is how quickly it's   gonna move side to side right now it's set to 28 
inches per minute plunge rate is how quickly goes   up and down DEP your pass is how much it takes 
off each time it goes that's for the roughing and   then for detail it has different settings well 
they happen to be the same but you can set them   differently so let's say you're doing your cut 
and you see actually this is taking a long time   it can go faster then you could increase your feed 
rate or actually it looks like the bits bending a   little bit or I broke this really small bit then 
you would slow it down so it doesn't it doesn't   do that doesn't overload the machine and last time 
here is the fill method offset is more of a spiral   and raster goes back and forth oh that's like 
raster is only for pro so we just have offset   which has always been fine for me so those are the 
cut settings all right so now we've told it that   we are going to do and just for the purpose of 
this we're gonna get rid of the detail bit so I'm   just going to click this little X but it's it's 
not much different so we see we have an eighth   inch bit in there so we're gonna load up an eighth 
inch bit we're gonna look at changing the bits now   when this is not being controlled by the computer 
so we're gonna move this over here but now to get   under this bit to get the bit in here we need to 
get a little more clearance so you want to raise   this up and this this axis you can't move by hand 
you can only move with the computer so I forgot   to mention this before but in general we just 
always leave this machine on there is a power   switch down here but and right now it's on and you 
can just leave it on if you were to turn it off   and the next person needs to restart the computer 
to get it to talk to it again so in general that   just stays on so we're gonna go to carve and tell 
it to move up that's a little more room to work   with this is the dust shoe that collects dust you 
just pull this great thing out yellow come comes   off and now we have access to the bottom so on 
the bottom there are a few things going on it's   a little hard to see but I'm gonna push this 
pin in here and what that's gonna do is lock   the spindle which will allow me to spin this guy 
out and as opposed to something like a drill which   uses a chuck that you can change the size of this 
uses collets and collets just have one size so   in this collet you can only fit aside like a one 
size a bit in here it goes in here and then when   you tighten it it pinches it because it has the 
little slits in it and then tightens down on it   so you need to make sure that you have the right 
size collet for the right size bit so now we'll   look at some of these other columns and bits 
we selected an 8 inch and conveniently this is   an 8 inch so this is an eighth inch bit that will 
fit right into it so that's gonna convenient let's   say me we wanna go quarter inch bit and this is a 
quarter inch collet that's very stuck on the bit   this is also a quarter-inch and so you would use 
this for your other for your quarter inch shank so   sometimes you will have bits that have different 
size shanks than the size of their actual cutting   head for example this one so they're not the same 
size so you need to make sure that the part that   the collar is holding on to is the right size 
for that card so we use this guy this bit is   a little short so here's a longer one I'll just 
make it easier to see what's going on same thing   just longer and because this cut I don't really 
care about I'm just using them from the public   bin if this was my own cut and I really wanted 
to be really nice I want to really sharp a new   bit so I just want to may own or buy it from 
here cutting deep into a material you need to   make sure that your bit can reach that depth so 
for a bit like this the shank is significantly   wider than the actual flutes you can cut down 
a half-inch but after that this is just gonna   be pushing into your wood and it couldn't start a 
fire just from the friction of rubbing up against   the wood at 2,000 rpm versus a bit like this where 
the flutes are the same as the shank so this can   go even past this three quarter inch depth it may 
not cut super well because the sawdust would have   a hard time escaping but it at least it can go 
that deep and if you want to try to go really   deep than you grab a bit with even longer flutes 
so that you can reach even farther depths so for   this this is the trickiest part of the whole 
situation so first you're just gonna screw this   up in there you're gonna have to pull the 
pin in to make sure it doesn't spin on you right so now that's in there you're pushing the 
pin in and then slide this up and you have to hold   it with your fingers doesn't just drop it out 
if you aren't holding the bit it'll just well   normally it just falls right out and then you need 
to tighten it so now you're using all kinds of   body parts to hold it in place so the this because 
we're looking at it from the top you're gonna turn   it to the left to tighten it and it's a little 
in case you forget that there's a little image   on the side so it shows this way is locked and 
this way is unlocked so I'm holding this button   with my thumb and I'm holding this my other finger 
twisting and tightening it and then just to make   sure that it's extra tight I'm gonna grab this 
wrench off of the wall and so this goes onto this   collet nut apart that's holding to collet and 
again I have to still to hold this top button   it pops in place and just give an extra a little 
bit of torque just to hold on there really snugly   because it'd be a real bummer if it came out 
spinning it a few thousand rotations per minute   so then you put our dust shoe back on and this pin 
back in as you can see these are just 3d printed   which is kind of cool and now that's all set up 
so now we to think about how we're gonna hold this   material down and so you can see that there are 
holes throughout this table for clamps so we're   gonna go over here and grab some clamps and these 
are just little leavers three of them and because   they're wood it isn't the end of the world if 
a if the bit hits them it's obviously not great   I mean to make new ones and It'll probably mess 
up your print but it's not like anything's gonna   catastrophic break so the way these work is this 
is the fulcrum and it needs to be higher than your   piece of wood so I'm going to screw these out so 
that it's a little bit higher in our wood and then   put another screw in or bolt into here to hold it 
down it needs to be at a bit of a downward angle   if it's an upward angle she's gonna smush the 
piece right out put a downward angle hold these in I'm going to grab the screwdriver off of the wall 
make this process a little easier okay that's one   and I'm not screwing it all the way down super 
tightly just yet because we're not actually   doing a lot of cutting two should be fine you 
generally want as many clamps as possible I'd   say like probably the biggest the most common way 
for this to fail is that your piece moves while   you're cutting there's a lot of vibration there's 
a lot of cutting forces we want it to be really   secure like I said I'm not totally tightening just 
yet I'll just leave it like that okie dokie so now   we're gonna come back over here and we want to 
make sure this is totally straight so when we do   our design it's going to be in line with our piece 
let's say you're doing a cutout you wanted to make   a little cut out a rabbit it wouldn't matter 
if this was straight because it's gonna be cut   out so it doesn't matter what it's orientation 
is to the piece of wood unless you care about   some feature in the world or the grating or 
something like that but you don't care we're   here we don't care or no where they do care so 
we're gonna bring this down to the lower left-hand   corner and now we can see the interval so this 
is pretty important right now it's set to move   a point one inches for every click so I remove 
this it was point one inches but that's gonna   take us a while to get there so you can choose one 
inch and that's gonna move a lot and that's great   however if I were to click down like two inches 
right now it would just stick it right into the   table and things would break and so when you're 
moving at 1 inches at a time per interval you   need to be really careful about how much you're 
clicking so I give you tempting scope click   clicking like clicking a whole bunch and then 
you realize it's just gonna slam it off the side   so you need to when you're wanting to be really 
conscious of your gonna come over here and then   go X left a little bit to the ballpark and then 
you click down once and then after that I'm gonna   just use the point 1 intervals now it's a point 1 
you can also enter custom controls here there are   custom increments lined up just with that so it 
looks to me like we're pretty well lined up with   that edge so now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna 
bring it back up so you can get over that clamp   that we put down put it in one-inch and move it 
all the way over to the right side and I'll bring   it back down it is no longer anywhere close to 
be lined up with a piece of wood so what we're   gonna do is just scooch this guide down there we 
go so now it's lined up with a bit again it's now   it's lined up but to bit on the right side we'll 
run it back to the left just to make extra sure maybe here so you see this this is the process 
for getting it lined up straight there you could   if you're doing a bunch of pieces you could like 
screw or nail or something a piece of wood into   here so you line it up with your it's flat every 
time but because so many people are doing so many   things different things on here it doesn't make 
sense for us to have a permanent origin marking   piece that explains this this process right 
so now let's just clean this up a little bit   so we're not doing all these different things so 
I'm just gonna delete some of these things always   have this well just we'll just do this weird 
shape and now a pretty important step is making   sure that we're not gonna hit the clamp so we're 
gonna click simulate again and we can see some   of the other material things that tells us it's 
to take about five minutes so that's pretty good   to know and it's gonna show us the path that it's 
gonna take so it's gonna start in this corner and   then it's gonna come over and just go around and 
what that means is we can't have any plants that   are gonna be in the path of its travel to make 
sure clamps are over here or away from where   it's going to be cutting that's pretty important 
and it looks like good so we're tucked away in   the corner and now I'm gonna tighten these down 
now that we know it's in the right place okay that's tight and now we're ready to carve 
so we're gonna go over to carve and it says   measure the material so enter the exact thickness 
of material you measure it was 0.75 inches that's   important because it was actually thinner and 
we're going all the way through then I'd be   cutting into the table and we'd rather not put 
into the table obviously some people have but if   you are gonna go all the way through try to go a 
teensy bit all the way through so that you're not   jamming all this deep way into the table so we're 
gonna confirm material thickness check clamp down   the material we just did that so the material 
is secure confirm your bit it is an eighth inch   so it's actually a spiral and up cut bit so let's 
see if that's an option eighth inch up cut there   we go so that's a little more accurate I don't 
think that would change anything but make you   sleep easier tonight and then we can go to work 
zero so move the machine to the lower left corner   of your material so we're pretty close to the 
bottom where we're not at the left corner so   you go left over and then the way that I normally 
do this is I look at it from this position to see   if it's exactly lined up on this edge and you 
want the middle of the bit to be lined up with   the middle with it with the edge not like not 
the edge of the bit in the middle a bit lined   up with the edge of the wood so that's zero one 
and go up just here alright that's lined up and   then I'm gonna go from this perspective it needs 
to go left alright that's perfectly lined up there   and then the last trick is taking a piece of 
paper and putting it underneath here and you   want it to do just so here you can you can hear 
that the bit is scraping the piece of paper and   so we'll set it to the small setting point zero 
zer one go down a little more and so now it's   just it's pinching the paper and that means are 
really close to the surface if you really want   to be super precise and now you can even go down 
one more just to make up for that thickness of   the paper so now we're all set for the bit is we 
move to work zero let's say you're doing multiple   cuts in a row you could just click used last home 
position and I mean you wouldn't need to reset the   home position you could just use the one you used 
before so lookin for a home position now I'm gonna   say raise the bit it's gonna raise it for us just 
moved up and we're gonna tell it that dust shoe   is attached confirmed and we're not gonna turn 
the spindle on you are gonna turn the vacuum   on which is down here and this tool is pretty 
loud so your probably gonna want ear protection and then turn the spindle on by pulling this up so I just paused it so that we can talk about 
what's happening here so the pause button was   over here and that just stops it but it doesn't 
cancel it said we could click play and it would   start up again but you need to make sure that 
the spindle in fact we're back on some of the   other things you can do here or you can see if 
it was just going too slowly you think you can   cut faster you can click the plus button and 
it will cut up to 200% faster or you can go   the other direction you can slow it down and then 
let's say something was going badly something had   moved something there's a problem then you can 
click the X button and it will cancel and you   turn the router off one of the dangers with this 
CNC with the CNC router is starting a fire so   occasionally a bunch of sawdust will build up and 
there's air blowing and there's a spindle moving   really quickly and it will start fire and so in 
that case you should just be able to turn this   off and turn the vacuum off and it'll take care 
of itself if it's bad obviously you got the fire   extinguisher in general the problems that happen 
here you can hear you'll it will break the bit   will break something will move you just come over 
and turn it off and It'll be annoying but nothing   catastrophic is important that you stay certainly 
within earshot and preferably within eyeshot of   this Shapeoko while it's running so that you can 
hear if something messes up and see it and react   to it so that's that's pretty important however 
this can run for hours at a time so sometimes you   know if you can just make sure you're listening 
to it normally that will indicate if there's   a problem if you're just so wanting to stop it 
really quickly you could push the off button but   that's just gonna stop a movement the spindle is 
still gonna be spinning so you need to push that   turn that off in addition so then let's say you 
did finish the cut and what we'll do so I'm gonna   click play again after I turn the spindle on it's 
gonna move a little bit and I'm just gonna click   the X button to stop it because we don't need to 
watch it do the whole thing and it's gonna come   right back to this position and if you just let it 
finish it on its own it would also come right back and so it says these were the feed rates and 
whatnot they were used if it didn't turn out   well which it suspects because we hit the 
X button then you could say sad face and   it'll give you some suggestions for how 
to improve it in the future when you're   done the the vacuum does collect most of the 
dust but you want to make sure that you do   any backing up that you need to put the bits 
and the clamps away have fun making things

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