Super Easy Stop Block For A Miter Saw – 197

technically speaking the miter saw station is complete but I still want to add a couple things and the most important being a stop block system to the left of the blade from where my fence begins to where it ends at the wall is a full eight feet so I picked up two these 48 inch sections of mini track and this is basically just a 3/4 inch wide T track that accepts a quarter by twenty bolt that will slide in and out this whole length of the T track I'll make a six inch wide block for the actual stop block for the ruler I'm using a twelve foot piece of peel-and-stick measuring tape and this will read right to left and for some type of an adjustment to go on the block to really dial in the length I'm going to use a piece of aluminum this is actually a two dollar 40 inch Harbor Freight ruler that I never used so I'll just cut a section of this and it will allow me to precisely dial in the stop block the stop block will be made from two pieces of 3/4 inch hardwood plywood laminated together and once this is in the clamps I can remove the fence to cut the dado for the T track I'm running a couple test pieces to make sure I can get the exact width of the dado stack dialed into the exact width of the T track so I was able to dial in the width exactly but my crappy dado blade leaves a lot of chip out on this very thin veneered surface so I was experimenting with some blue painters tape and it left a better edge on one side other side's not so great and then I experimented with the painters tape and taking a very very shallow scouring cut and that worked out the best so that's what I'm going to do first is make a scoring cut and then I can establish my depth with another pass assuming that this is the back of the stop block facing the fence this little piece of aluminum will be the actual adjustment to really dial in the measurement on the ruler and it needs to have a mortise that starts about two inches in and goes the full height of this little piece with a boat going through the backside and a couple washers and wingnut on the front side this will give me about 3/4 of an inch of travel to really dial into this arm with the ruler up here now I don't want this to be sitting flush onto this work surface because dust may affect travel this way so I want to elevate it by 1/8 of an inch but I don't want this to be able to rock back and forth in this direction so to stop that completely I'm going to cut a dado in here and insert a spline that will fit into this gap right here and that will keep this tracking horizontally left and right just that quick I lost the bolt I was using so I had to modify the only other quarter-twenty bolts I could find which happens to be a toilet bolt so it will go through here and then a washer and a knob on the other side test it out to determine the exact placement of the ruler on the fence this board is 33 and 7/8 of an inch long and I'll put it up against the blade and then I can slide the stop block into place make a mark on the fence itself and now I know to line the ruler up at 33 and 7/8 with my mark and then there's plenty of adjustment in here to really dial it in now I can clamp a board down on the miter saw at a 30 inch cut make the cut confirm that it is 30 inches and then adjust the stop block to read exactly 30 inches

As found on YouTube

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