Serving Trays part2 – Woodworking Tips – WoodWorking Projects

to attach the base to the sides I'm going to use some screws and I'm going to pre-drill for the holes and have one screw at the center of each side and that hole can just be drilled straight through but the end holes of each side I'm first going to drill through and then I'm going to elongate the hole a bit to allow for some expansion with the base carefully clamped to the sides making sure that it's centered I can attach it with some one inch screws now to ease the edges of the sides I'm just gonna use my block plane to round it over and I'll give it a little bit of sanding and then it's off to the finishing room let me show you the parts for our cherry tray here's the sheet brass which I actually found in the yellow pages under listening for brass now it's a little bit thicker than the one that was used on the antique original but it's still fairly easy to work now over here I have a board that I'm going to use for the bottom the bottom is only a quarter of an inch thick so I'm gonna resaw this in half and plane it down and when I open the two pieces up I get this book match defect which is kind of nice here's the end pieces some half-inch thick cherry and here's the long side pieces and a couple templates I'm going to start with the end pieces just setting the template even with the bottom edge and tracing the outline the top edge of the piece I'll be able to cut here at the bandsaw the hand ball will go to the scroll saw at the scroll saw after drilling a hole in the hand whole area I can thread the saw blade through bring it up to the holder lock it in place with the tension it needs sit down a hole bound to keep the wood tight against the table little blower over here I'm using my oscillating spindle sander to clean up the inside of the hand hole then I'll put on a larger drum and do the top of the end pieces the next thing I want to do is flip this 1 by 10 to make the bottom for the tray I'm going to use this tool known as a resaw it's really a bandsaw with a very wide blade with carbide tips cuts through the hardest wood no problem to remove the saw marks and plane the pieces to uniform thickness I'm going to turn to my portable surface planer now I can edge glue the two pieces together no biscuits here the piano is actually – then we'll clamp it up let this cook overnight and we'll easily finish this tray tomorrow oh good morning I got started today making some rabbits in the long side pieces to receive the ends and to do that I've set up a stop block on my fence which will determine the shoulder cut and I'm just using my saw blade to nibble away the material now I've switched to my stacked dado head cutter and I'm using the 2 outside blades which gives me a quarter inch width which is perfect for the cherry panel which is going to be in the bottom of the tray I'll run a groove in all four pieces for the assembly a little bit of glue on each side of the joint the bottom panel sits in loose no glue there you just put all the pieces together and tack it with some Brad's well now it's time to start fabricating the bits of brass and I'm gonna start with these top corner pieces so I've set up my bandsaw with a guide fence and a span saw blade that's 1/8 inch wide and 14 teeth per inch the general-purpose bandsaw blade now I would have liked a little bit thinner brass this is a 16th inch thick it works fine and the blade cuts right through it I plan to get all four corner brackets out of this piece I've reset the fence so it's 9/16 of an inch from the blade and I've put a stop mark right here at 9/16 back from the blade I'll cut in stop short and cut in from the other side get one and another one another one and another one each will be a little shorter then we'll trim the legs to length for the brass that surrounds the hand holes I've made a plywood template and I'll lay it out on the brass just using a permanent marker I'll cut the outside on the bandsaw cut the inside on our scroll saw to refine the edges of my piece I'm using my sanding center to just remove the marks that I made I've also set this table so that it tips in just a bit it'll give a slight back cut to the piece this being the face I so that it'll fit tighter in the mortise I make later now my little scroll saw here can easily stand up to this grass now I'm ready to make the mortises for the bits of brass and I'm gonna start with these corner pieces they're a little wider than the wood so I'll just Center it by eye and take a sharp utility knife and score the end points now remove the bulk of the material using my router which is set up with a half-inch mortising bit and then I'll clean the rest of it up with a good sharp chisel to make the mortises to receive the brass that goes around the hand holes I've clamped the piece in position and once again I'm using a sharp utility knife to score the outline this one's a little trickier to do because of the curves but basically I'll remove most of the material with the router and clean it up with some sharp chisel wherever I'm going to attach the brass with the screw I first drill a through hole then I'm gonna make a countersink to recess the screw head now I've switched bits to a countersink bit this gives me a tapered hole for the screw head before I mortise the corners of the tray for these L angle brackets I have to bend them and I found to get the sharpest corner the best thing to do is take a file hold it at a 45 degree on the backside of the piece of brass and keep running it through until it's about halfway through the thickness then if I take a pair of smooth jaw pliers and just line it up on the score that I just made bend into a nice sharp corner and all the pieces are held in place with some 3/8 inch brass screws one of the last things I want to do is trim the inside of this Hann hole so it's flush with the wood and to do that I'm just going to use my squash turning bit in my router okay that takes care of trimming these top corners flush now just sand the sharp edges off we're ready for the finishing room boy are we happy to see this product come along it's a wipe on polyurethane it gives you the look of a hand rub oil finish yet you get the protection that's offered by a polyurethane it's applied a lot like an oil you just simply put it on a rag and wipe it on I like this technique because I can get into the corners easily and there's no brush marks left behind I'll put on a coat let it dry for three or four hours sand it with some 220 grit paper dust it off and put on another coat three coats usually does the job well after putting a couple coats of that wipe-on poly urethane on our trace they're looking pretty good and I think they're going to be very useful around the house now next time we're going to build this table we found the antique in the low country of Georgia it's made from recycled pine and it has its own lazy susan maybe that's why they call it a carousel table I'll show you how to build one next time right here in the new Yankee Workshop

As found on YouTube

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