Miter saw station | with extension wing & integrated drill press

hey there I'm Marie from DIY Montreal
and today I'm going to show you how I built this miter saw station now there
are plans available for this build so if you're interested be sure to check the
description down below now there are a lot of miter saw stations out there so
what's different about this one well let me show you first off it has an
expandable expansion wing that way you save space and you can just pull it out
when you need to support long boards number two it has an integrated T track
with stop blocks on either side and not only does it harbor my miter saw it also
harbors my drill press now there's a removable platform in case you ever need
to remove the drill press you can just take that off the other great thing
about this is that it's a modular build so you can build whatever sections you
have room for if you don't have room for all of them and you can adapt it to your
needs other great thing is the whole total cost of this build for lumber is
under $100 so it's super affordable so want to see how I build it? let's get to
it.

My intention is to replace this old rickety work bench with the new miter
saw station and stay within a similar footprint after cleaning up the space
and a new coat of paint I was ready to begin the base will be built entirely with
two-by-fours so I set up a temporary work zone so I could use my miter saw to
cut down all the lumber as per the build plans in order not to get lost I decided
to build one module at a time next was time for pocket holes I basically made
two pocket holes at the end of each board that would serve as a horizontal
stretcher I could then turn to working on the assembly using pocket screws I
built up the first frame in a box formation that would make up my first
module you'll notice that I left the bottom
front sides open and this was intentional to allow flexibility down
the line to decide how I want to use the space underneath the workbench later on
saying that my floors are uneven would be an understatement
I have a huge slope and nothing is level so to make things easier I used a trick
I picked up from Jay Bates and decided to use carriage bolts as leveling feet
after drilling a hole I just tapped in a T nut and threaded in the bolt I
repeated this on all the legs so I could level out the entire build I then moved
on to building the next module this one will habor my drill press so
I'm making it a little shorter but otherwise the assembly process was
essentially the same after adjusting the leveling feet I
moved on to the third module now this one's a bit different not only
because I had to modify it to work around this column but mostly because
it'll include an expansion wing to support long boards after flipping the
legs upside down I added to support stretchers from underneath trying to keep
everything square with the help of a level and a speed square now just a side
note the build plans do not take into account this column oh and I also wanted
to point out that you can just as well use regular screws and butt joints if
you're not a fan of pocket screws alright now I should have thought of
making these holes before assembly but in any case the idea is to use a
Forstner bit to drill all the way through
after a little sanding I did a test fit to make sure the steel pipe would fit
using the same Forstner bit I drilled two holes using a depth stop set to one
inch deep then over at the module I did a dry fit
to make sure the holes were correctly aligned
I made similar holes into another block again not going all the way through then
did a dry fit with that piece as well with everything sliding freely I mixed
up some five-minute epoxy which I applied to both surfaces and push the
steel pipe all the way in after letting it dry I applied some
paste wax to the steel pipes to reduce friction and help the pipe slide
smoothly before screwing down the plywood top I first clamped on the top
to test the extension ring and make sure it could slide smoothly if you're
getting too much friction you can sand down the 2×4 just a little and test it
again once I was satisfied with that I could secure the plywood top with some
screws after making some pilot holes I went on to screw down the tops on all
the other modules but first added a center support piece to the module on
which my drill press will sit with all the tops on it's important to
ensure that all the modules are level before adding the middle platform that
will harbor the miter saw I tweaked the carriage bolts until I got it just
perfect I then built a simple platform using
more two by fours and pocket screws and screwed down the plywood top next I use my combination square to
precisely measure the height of my miter saw's base and so I could easily then
carry that measurement over to the modules and mark all four inner legs I
used some clamps to help line up the platform with the markings and then
secure it with some screws from underneath I also secured the other modules with a
few screws to the links I did a quick test with the level to
confirm everything was aligned and success I'm going to add an upper level
to the drill press module so the top sits flush with the top of the workbench
so after cutting down a few pieces to size I secure the top to the support
legs note that this shelf will simply sit in
place so I can easily remove it if needed but because I'm going to add a
T-track I want to make sure that the shelf is locked into place and won't move so I
simply attached a couple stop blocks to secure it into place I'm going to add t tracks to the
workbench with stop blocks using my router and this three-quarter inch
straight bit setting the bit height at about half of thickness of the T track
for the first pass I set up a guide and I clamped it to the workbench to make
sure I was nice and straight and after the first pass I adjusted the bit so it
was just above the thickness of the T track since I want the T track to sit
just below the surface of the workbench after that I cut my tracks to length and
did a dry fit before gluing it down the tracks I'm using weldbond glue for this
since it adheres to different surfaces like metal and wood you can also just
screw down the track but I like to use glue with the t-tracks in place I could move
on to making the stop blocks on making these out of small blocks of walnut but
any hardwood will do for the runners in the track I'm using UHMW runners but you
could use hardwood for this just as well I like to use these plastic runners
because they're a perfect fit and won't be affected by changes in weather or
humidity so the idea is something like this with the runners and the tracks and
the t-bolt in the middle and then a block on the top but first I need to cut
a small dado that will fit the runners you can do this in different ways but I
find the table-saw to be the easiest after chamfering all the edges I used
some superglue to secure the runners to the stop block and then made a hole for the bolt
through the center to finish it all off I applied two coats
of shellac to the stop blocks and the work bench top as well making sure to
avoid getting any into the tracks remember if you're interested in getting
plans for this build be sure to check in the description below the plans include
3D assembly diagrams cut lists and cutting diagrams materials lists and
much much more while I show off a few of the miter station's features I wanted to
point out that I'll eventually be finishing off the bottom half of the
build in a future video I'm not sure if I'll make drawers shelves doors or
probably a combination of all three storage options ask for dust collection
for now I'll simply be hooking up my shop vac but I'll likely address a more
permanent solution in a future video as well hey I hope you all liked this video
and if you did please give it a thumbs up if you're not already subscribed to
the channel I'd love to have you so be sure to hit that subscribe button until
next time thanks for watching see you soon

As found on YouTube

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