Making Picture Frames with Epoxy Perimeter Inlay | Woodworking Project

hey everyone my name is matt welcome to my shop this time i have a fairly simple and straightforward project but with a little bit of a twist making some picture frames with an epoxy uh perimeter inlay fill kind of thing this sort of a weird idea had bouncing around in my mind it's always fun to have those ideas kind of come into reality and just kind of flush things out and see where that idea concept takes you so the epoxy allows you to do a lot of different things with the colors and like the layout and all that but what it also kind of does is act as a bit of a spline since we pour this after the frame is assembled it basically ties the corners of the frame together so you don't need any additional splines or anything like that so kind of a cool little twist on normal picture frames i guess this video was sponsored by keeps i'll tell you more about that later but for now let's get started making some picture frames so i have two woods that are fairly contrasting so you can play around with two different uh inlays and get a different look for things first thing here is a piece of high temp thoroughly modified ash it's a much darker color and it is i think a piece of decking or something like that i got this from a viewer a few years ago nice short piece it's gonna work out really nicely for some frame stock the other one here is a piece of birch i got this from my in-laws uh like the 10 11 years ago before liz and i were married they got me a stack of wet lumber from a sawmill that i had to drive myself so i learned how to draw my own lumber this is the very first stuff i ever drive myself in my basement so it's been sitting around for a while it's not super wide so it's gonna work out really nicely for a frame uh this is gonna be like a wider type frame like three inches wide and this will be more like an inch and a half because i'll rip this into strips so i'm gonna go ahead and chop the birch down to more rough length joint plane and get it all milled up into a nice stock we'll do a very simple thing on the thermally modified ash we'll just go through and rip it into a pair of strips and that'll give us our stock to start cutting into all the frame parts so i'll see you over at the table saw in a little bit so the stock is all prepped and next we can kind of go through and figure out what we want to do as far as the molding profiles and all of the detail cuts that we want to make onto these pieces so i'm gonna start with the easy one because it's the one i know uh i'm gonna do for sure it's gonna need a rabbet for the glass and for the uh the actual thing that's gonna get framed so this is gonna be a quarter inch by quarter inch rabbet and i'm going to do that with two passes of the table saw blade so i don't have to spot blades or anything like that so now is the fun part or maybe the difficult part if you don't like making decisions uh and creating some kind of molding profile onto this stock so i think on here i'm going to do maybe a 3 16 inch wide groove that's going to be for that epoxy fill they'll give me a nice little like strip of material on the outside the epoxy strip and then the interior and then on the interior i think i'm going to put a little bit of a bevel on here something that'll bring the rabbet down to oh maybe like uh an eighth of an inch or three sixteenths down here as well and then come out maybe three quarters out to here so a line that connects these two so i'm gonna knock this one out first because uh i actually have an idea on this one so a couple of groove cuts and i will tip the blade and make that interior bevel cut that's how that one looks and because i can only come with one creative idea a day apparently i'm going to do basically the same thing on the wider one i'm going to have a kind of narrower area here along the outside edge and then we'll do an area here that's going to be for the pour which should be 7 8 of an inch wide and then we'll also have that bevel there it's going to be a different angle this can be a lot wider of a cut but it's going to be i guess we're kind of doing matching frames in a sense since the uh the overall theme of the profile is uh basically the same so same-ish operations before i'm gonna do some uh grooves and then we'll make a nice little bevel and then uh minor time [Music] so i changed plans a little bit i left a bit of material here in the middle uh and they are a little asymmetrical the width of the grooves so i don't know that might make up make something cool i don't know a strip in the middle there whether or not it's two different things of epoxy or one wide one with this piece of wood breaking up the middle i don't know i'm making it up as i go that's uh that's why i like these quick projects so let's get the miter gauge here set for 45 and then we can start actually making some miters [Music] okay now with the first cup made we can do some checks on our work pieces make sure everything is actually set up correctly you know a lot of people really worry about setting up the saw and everything and dying it in but to never check the actual result it's a lot more important to check the actual result of your setup of what it's actually cutting because that actually is what matters so a few things you're going to want to check first off it's possible if using a miter gauge for the blade to pull the piece through as you're cutting it creating a not flat surface will create a bit of a curve on there so with a straight edge you can come in here and just verify that the cut is actually straight it's not curved or do anything weird the other thing you want to do is make sure it is actually at 45 degrees so a couple of easy ways to check that right here on the saw so a lot of people will use the square and check the 45 they'll do something kind of like this and that works okay but you have a lot more resolution if you come in like this put the body of the square against the miter and then you can actually see any error a lot further down because this is only you know this long but i can extend this blade a little bit further and that will exaggerate any error in that 45 degree angle so i am maybe just a tiny little hair out just a tiny tiny little bit and i think that's probably just fine enough for uh the length of this miter if it was a really really wide miter that might be way more concerning another kind of quick trick is to use the table saw table itself as the blade of the square so we can take this ruler section out of here you can put the work piece down on the table like this and drop the square on here like this and that gives you another really nice hands-free approach to checking the thing for square now the last check is going to be that the cut is actually square because this cut is a compound cut it's 45 degrees in this direction it should be 90 in the other direction so we can use a table again and our square we can bring it in and check that the cut is actually square this one is usually pretty easy for people since most of the time using the table saw at 90 degrees so pretty good at setting our table saw to be square and again this looks pretty good so i am good as far as setup goes to start walking through and making all my cuts the other big precision thing with making picture frames is going to be that the two opposite sides of the frame are exactly the same length that's going to keep things from getting thrown off that one's pretty simple to accomplish with a simple stop lock making sure that all your cuts are going to be exactly the same length because i'm making two different size rectangular frames i only have two pieces of each length so instead of setting a stop block i'm just going to gang cut the pair just for convenience so as i step through the miter cuts on all the frame pieces let me tell you about this video sponsor keeps did you know two out of three guys will experience some form of male pattern baldness by the time they're 35 i'm i'm 33.

The best way to prevent hair loss is to do something about it while you still have hair left keeps has revolutionized the way men are treated for hair loss with keeps us easier and more affordable to get treatment for your hair loss and to help you keep the hair you have you used to have to go to the doctor's office for your hair loss prescription now thanks to keeps you can visit a doctor online and get medication delivered to your home every three months keeps offers a generic version of the only two fda approved hair loss products out there some of you may have tried them before but probably never for this price so you don't have to go broke to avoid going bald prevention is key the sooner you start using keeps the more hair you'll save keeps treatments can take up to four to six months or more to see results so it's important to act fast so if you're ready to take action and prevent hair loss go to matt ramona or click the link in the description to receive 50 off your first order that's k-e-e-p-s dot com slash matt cremona thanks so much keeps for sponsoring this video now let's get back to these picture frames that was kind of the uh moment of truth i guess a little test fit here and see how things look like they're coming together in theory they should come together nicely yeah it's looking pretty good let's throw a couple of clamps on here and then take a closer look but i think it's looking just fine i would say that is looking pretty good i'm sure the other one's gonna look just fine too so this is pretty much ready for glue up one little tip i will give you though if you're putting a bevel down in here like i am you want to sand this area first before doing a glue up because it's going to be basically impossible to get nice crisp inside corners if you're in here trying to sand again later on this flat area doesn't matter because you can still sand that but down in here that always be done before the actual glue up and yeah this one is uh good as well so for this glue up i'm using total boats traditional five to one epoxy resin i'm using epoxy for this glue for a few reasons so first off the thermally modified ash does not really take well to water-based glues since it is kind of water repellent uh the epoxy also has a very long working time so i shouldn't need it for this but i'm not really in a rush so if i need to like tweak something and get into position i have all the time in the world practically to get this uh frame in its final position before leaving it alone and third and probably most importantly is that uh using epoxy for the glue up for the miters is gonna allow me to do the pour into here right away i want to wait for any kind of glue to cure or anything like that if i used a pva glue i'd have to wait for the water to come out of that area before pouring the epoxy so you don't get any hazing from that extra water that's in that glue so just for efficiency's sake this is going to make the most amount of sense and then we're actually going to pour this product into all these grooves anyways it's all going to kind of fuse together all at once and another plus is if i uh mix up too much epoxy at this point for this glue up i'm just gonna end up reusing it to pour into the grooves so less waste i guess looking like it's lining up really nicely one other little tip is if you're going to do these bevels again it's going to be a good idea to clean up your squeeze out now because it's going to be almost impossible to get down in there and clean this up cleanly later on so yeah just a little bit of a glue left so i think we're gonna do the little one first i'm gonna use i think some copper pigment i think it's gonna look really cool up against that really dark uh color of the thermally modified ash totally not scientific way of pigmenting this but it seems like that's gonna be a lot yeah let's do a lot i don't know let's just see what happens yeah that's actually a pretty cool color okay i'm gonna do my best to pour this in here without making an absolute mess of everything i will make one last little note is when you're doing these pores the surface you have this frame sitting on you want to have it be level because otherwise you're going to have a mess and you know another little variation on this too is if you wanted to pour two different colors and have them like mix and meet somewhere along the frame you could do that too that would be kind of cool one of the things i like about this concept is you have a lot of options for customization and really just changing it up just based off how wide you make these grooves what color you make the epoxy and all of that okay this is kind of fun now for the big one so since this frame is a lighter color i'm gonna go for something a little bit bolder we got some blue here and i have some micro pearl which is gonna give it some iridescence so again i have no idea how much of this i'm putting here i would put a lot because i want it to be pretty punchy and let's see maybe this much let's just see mix it up let's do maybe a little bit more blue yeah that seems pretty good so this is going to go into the slightly wider inside groove so i'm gonna try and pour that as best as i can to get it to stay outside stay out of the outside groove and then i'm gonna mix up something else for that i have some uh some black ish pigment which might look good with this i don't i have no idea if it doesn't look good you're welcome so you know so you won't make this mistake if it is a mistake or if it's awesome you'll know regardless of what happens we'll know it's all about discovery these actually look pretty slick maybe just maybe i'm on to something i don't know yeah that's kind of cool so a little bit of uh sane to get these things ready for finish prep we have the epoxy fills to flush up when i did the pores i over filled these a little bit so it ended up a little bit uh high of the surface or proud the surface so i can flush them back down to the wood that's also where all the extra bubbles are gonna live if there are any so the sanding should remove any bubbles and flush everything up and then we should be good to go for some finish and for that i'm just going to use some spray lacquer should be a pretty quick little process after i've got a few coats of spray lacquer on there i can drop in the glass and then attach all the hardware and everything like that and then these should be pretty much good to go so i'm pretty happy with the way these things turned out i think this concept has some legs so to speak on here i like this color combination i'm not i'm kind of going back and forth on on this thing here but you know for proof of concept it doesn't really matter but i could see this being something you could do for like uh you know team colors if you're into you know sports or whatever it is that teens may have colors for again just kind of fund us together shop and just try something new and experiment and just have fun it doesn't really matter if it ends up working at least you have an idea of what works and what doesn't so we talked a little bit about picture framing in this video if you want a little more of a deeper dive into it you can check out the free picture frame building class over in the guild i will do a link to that one that one is a free one so you can see how the guilds are structured in case you want to take a look at one of the furniture making classes so i have a link to that as well as links to everything i use to make these frames down in the description below thank you again to keeps response from this video and thank you as always for watching i greatly appreciate if any questions or comments on the picture frames or anything here in the new shop please feel free to leave me a comment as always i'll be happy to answer any questions you might have and until next time happy working

As found on YouTube

Related Posts