JordsWoodShop – Build a Dartboard Cabinet pt 2 of 2 (beginner project)

in part two we're going to finish making our dartboard cabinet okay so this is where we left it last time so we had our case assembled and we had our rebate cut or a recess cut and we also had our plywood panel fitting nicely so what we have to do now is pretty much turn this box from a box into a cabinet so we're going to be adding a shelf into it and then we'll be putting some doors on it as well as hanging it if you install this shelf it could be easier all we're going to be doing is we're going to be putting a piece of wood inside here and screwing it in through the sides it's really simple now to get the correct size all we have to do is with a tape measure measure the inside here so our inside measurement is 568 millimeters so we'll just rip this down to 568 millimeters long and on top of that because we have recessed this plywood panel in here we're going have to also rip it down to the correct okay so just like last time I've got my stop block set here to be the correct length so I think that was five hundred and sixty eight millimeters or something like that and before I actually cut it to the final length I'm just going to trim off one end to make it nice and square so the stop block is lifted the workpiece is put behind it and with a square of one end flip it and firend and then cut it to the final length okay so our piece is now properly sized so it's the correct length and the correct height now to install this shelf is pretty simple now we know from our drawing that it has to be 230 millimeters from the very bottom of the case to the top of the shelf so we'll just go ahead and make sure that that is where it's set out and with that thing in place we'll just make sure it is square yes and because we know that a square we can then mark out the rough location of the screw so I'm just doing this by eye here's the center of the board so with that center line actually marked out we'll come back with a square and mark a line on the side of the case and now just measuring here that's 320 millimeters so we'll just mark that line on the other side of the case as well now I've got my square here set at 15 millimeters and that looks like it's pretty good for the hole for this first group I will mark that on both sides and I think maybe we'll put 50 mil on top of that so we need 65 from there and here is our second screw okay so we've we've marked out our center line on both sides of the case and we've also marked the location of the two screw so it will look nice and even on both sides of the case the screws are going to be using either stays there 15 millimeter long treated pi and screws and we're going to countersink them down by about 5 millimeters using a 9 millimeter drill bit now the reason for that is that we're going to plug these just using some dowels and we're using standard owl that you buy at your hardware store and they come in nine millimeter sizes so our first hole that we'll drill is a pilot hole and this is oversized so our screw will be able to go in there freely and not grab on the Jarrah and then the second hallway drill will be our countersink hole with our nine millimeter bit yes our holes will go through there really enough but we'll also be able to cap that window okay so our holes are cut here our plywood panel is back in and we've got our shelf well floating in the case so to set the position here we've got our centre line from before so we just line that up we'll get a square and we'll just make sure that it is in fact sitting nice and square in there and then with a undersized drill bit at this time so for our screw will come and we'll drill a pilot hole for the screw heads for the screw threads okay so the casework is more or less complete so we're just going to sand this all down here and actually fix the bat plywood panel in place so we'll do that once it's sounded now I'm just gonna send this to 80 grit and that's what I'm gonna leave it at now now I'm gonna be using a linseed oil on this so it's not exactly a finish that requires a fine sort of surface but if you're going to varnish this will use a lack of something like that of course you would want to go a bit higher probably something like a 120 okay so for the doors in this dartboard case we're gonna have to swing outdoors on the top path here and one cupboard door which will actually hinge down so right now I'm just working on the top doors here so I've already got the timber that I'm going to be using now these are just some pine panels which I glued up months ago for I don't even remember what it was I think it might have been a shelf or something so one door is going to be sitting like so and you'll and you see that it's actually taller than the dartboard case itself now I'll tell you why that is lair and the other floor is quite a bit wider so this store here is I think it's 330 millimeters yes by 70 person sorry 330 millimeters by 700 millimeters and the other panel is 270 millimeters by 700 millimeters now I've I went ahead and I rip those risers just by trial and error I placed them on the case here as I that looks like it's a decent width and then I ripped that down and from there I took the measurements so I started out with a 330 millimeter board placed it on the case now the case is laying down on the tools and from there I measured the the rest of the way so that's how I came up with those Mosel now I mentioned before that these doors are going to be taller than the actual case where they're going to stick out above now there's a few reasons for that one is that I'm going to be shaping these to have a interesting sort of form and give it a little bit of a different look and the other thing is is that I actually want this case to be approaching the golden ratio now if you're not sure what the golden ratio is it's sort of a mathematical equation that tells you the perfect ratios of a rectangle now I don't remember what the number is off the top of my head but it's some crazy long number and for a case that's 600 millimeters wide with perfect of height of a saree length of it would be about 974 millimetres I think it is from memory and by having these actually a bit taller than the case this actually starts to approach that number now it's not going to be perfect but you know it's going to look closer okay so I have the case laying on its back here and I've got the doors on top of the case now I can still vaguely see the centre line of this shelf that I drew earlier and that's pretty much where I want this door to actually sit so I'm just going to align this edge up with the edge of the case and with that centre line and that will be good enough for the location now once that's in place I'll just make a little tip line here so I can line that up in the future and with that one in place I'll also just line up the other door you can see there's quite a lot of lines on here and it's probably a little bit confusing but what I've just been doing is I've sort of been playing with ideas and what I should do and I've decided instead of doing anything with curved straight lines will look okay for this now just lie in fear so you can hopefully see I'll just put this up against it so in this black line here that is the line I'm going to be cutting on this board here now I want this other panel here so the wider panel will be a bit shorter but I also want it to still have a bit of height to it so I'm doing that interesting shape so you can see here I'm doing a cut like so and then into that cut I'm going to intercept it from up here so it's going to have a little bit of an arrow on this door as well which falls into this store and it should give it a weird but interesting look I think I've not done anything like this before I don't know if it will work and if it doesn't well you know at least I've given it a shot so to cut this out I'm going to use a bandsaw and then use some hand plans or of course because it is a straight cut you could use your circular saw now I'm just using a number for Jackpine on this and it is angering so I've got a fairly sharp blade but I'm also skewing it on a very large angle so instead of the plane wanting to chop the fibers it's more of a slicing actions so I went ahead and I cut out the other door and the way I had had it was so that the door would be a little bit higher like that and it looked a little bit weird so I actually went back and I cut this angler is hop here so it would run into our our you know they'll peeking cut on this door here so now let us turn on the side so you can see in face we just have an eyeful peeking door and the hinges I'm using are just these little you know sort of brass hinges they're decorative and they're just going to be mounted like that I'm not worrying about having these things recessed you know anything I'm just learning them straight on the surface okay to install these hinges I'm just going to be butting them up on the edge like that I'm not resetting them I'm not worried about I'm not worrying about trying to hide them so to do that I'm just locating this bottom one where I think it looks about right so I've got this in the rough position and that looks fairly decent to me so I'm just going to leave it on the side there and we'll mark it out using the pencil that I've lost this quiz I'm using look like their brass but they're actually just steel and they've been painted to look like it so they're a lot a lot more durable than that those brass screws but if you were using brass screws just make sure that you pre tap it with a steel with a steel schools where the first hinge put in place and I just want to make sure that it's about the same distance from the top so that's about 15 millimeters from the top here there's our first three hinges and now we can just line up our door top of the case so pretty do okay so with the doors are hung and looking fairly decent so little bit surface like better it's it's fine we can actually start working on the drawer fronts now these are actually going to be fake drawers so it's just going to look like a drawer but when you're actually going to open it it's just going to swing down and reveal this hutch so to do that I'm going to be making them out of jairus or sort of staying in the overall look of the piece so that contrasting woods will have the high-end or with the Jarrah front so to do that we just have to first cut something to mount the drawer fronts on through now I have this leftover plywood here so this is once again some scrap wood I already have laying around and what we need to do is we have to cut a piece of wood that will actually fit inside of this hutch so we've already measured that and we know its 565 millimeters long by 100 and 90 millimetres fire boy yes so I'm going to be cutting at the table sort but of course as many ways you can do it circular saw jigsaw handsaw you name it you can cut it like that we just please cut and it fitting in that hole or the hutch quite nicely so it's a little bit of wiggle room there so it will be able to fold down we can actually cut the draw front so the draws are obviously going to extend the entire length of the case so that's 600 millimeters we know and I want there to be too fake draws there so the overall height here is actually 225 millimeters so we'll divide that by two that gives us a hundred and twelve point five millimeters so I've already got this piece of beautiful Jericho now this has got some really nice vigor to it I don't know how the camera will pick it up but you can see that it's got this Tiger sort of pattern through it it's really nice so we'll cut two lengths out of this which is 600 millimetres long and then I'll also rip them to be 112 millimeters wide and then from there we'll actually shape them using the router table by putting a little sort of bevel on there and all mount them onto the plywood okay I was going to have both of these paces the same height but when I was cross cutting these down to be 600 long I noticed that through this piece here my hand had a really long crack throughout the paste and actually separated so what I was left to do was actually have the bottom one here be the full height of the board which is about 130 millimeters long and this piece here I had to touch for about 95 millimeters long now it wasn't what I originally had planned but I don't think it will look too bad either I think it will actually look quite nice having these two separate sizes so we have our two fake drawer fronts routed and cut to the final size so now what we have to do is actually position onto our substrate so we want to have the nice face of the plywood on the inside because that's what's going to be seen and to do this all I'm going to do is use a double stick tape and then screw it in from behind now I just have this little jack here that I'm using to hold the plywood up now of course if you haven't got something similar to that oh yeah let's do is get a couple of pieces of wood and stack them high enough so that it supports your your actual piece of plywood here okay so now that the double stick tape is applied I should have done this first now I'll position it into the box here and we'll just make sure that there is a little bit of a gap on all four faces here okay so the short one goes on the top here and the long run is on the bottom so with that all in place it looks as if that these two pieces of jerrick here are actually separate drawers but really what's going to happen with these is that they're just going to swing open like that I was kind of like for a little bit of a work sort of emergency I guess you could call it even though it turned out to be nothing yesterday so I had to sort of stop everything and just leave now so what were up to was we had just fitted these two drawer fronts sort of fake drawer fronts onto our plywood substrate and I was about to install the hinges now I spent the best part of this morning actually fitting those hinges and now eventually I got them to work but it was a lot of mucking around now these were just hinges that I had sitting on the shelf from the last project and really it was a lot of work just to get these ones to work and they're still not perfect neither so they're still not closing 100% now because of the trouble I'm having with these I would highly recommend that you just don't use them at all the trouble started with the idea of mounting them so originally I was gonna mount the recess piece so if you don't know these him just have one side which get recessed into the cabinet or into the shelf sorry into the door and the other side is a flat mount so originally the recessed side was going to be on the door and that would work really easily we'll just drill the hole that needed to be there screw it in place and mount on the shelf but once I did the first one it became quite apparent that that wasn't claiming possible so I had to actually put the recessed side on the in earnest on the inside piece of this shelf here and that caused a whole lot of issues and so I had to actually remove the shelf so I forget the drill in there and because I put glue on the back of this shelf and I put the plywood backing on that made it a little bit tricky and then I managed to get all of the holes cut up with shelf back in and it just still didn't really work perfectly so I was a lot of training and trying to get everything feeling nicely eventually I did get there but in my opinion it was more trouble than it's worth so if I was to do this again I'd probably come in with a piano hinge so if you don't know piano hinge is a really long hinge you can buy it on a roll where you can get it in pre-cut lengths and I would mount it on the bottom edge of this shelf so so the way I would mount the hinge is so when it's closed both sides of the hinge are on this face here so the top edge of the bottom here and so that would allow the shelf to open up completely now I haven't actually got any plainer hinge and I've already drilled these holes so I'm not going to go down that path but if I were you if I was to do this again I'll definitely change approaches of these hinges now I do like the idea of had a supreme close sort of self that won't fall down but really it's not any more work to just install a magnetic catch so I've done this here already I'm not going to go into details of installing it because it's really not worth it but what but I will now move on to there just finishing this piece so I'm sorry that I'm not gonna show you what hinge installed but really is the same as any other Kings install just YouTube how to install see Anakin's and you'll find hundreds of answers so what we're going to do now is we'll take the doors off we'll give them a quick sanding so 80 grit again I'm not going to go any higher for myself and then we'll give everything a once-over with a coat of oil the slides to the inside of the doors before that I'm going to be painting them with blackboard paint or chalkboard paint so we'll master that off using some tape okay so I've sounded everything – 80 grit now and I've also Stanford the edges using my little cute little block plane here so I'm going to be doing a linseed oil now this is the pale boiled linseed oil now this is the stuff that has drying agents and it's a bit thinner but I'm also going to thin it with mineral tips so I'm gonna do about 50/50 so it's going to be really thin but it's going to get nice and deep into the pores of the wood okay so I came back and I just wiped everything off with a nice clean cloth and then I put the doors and hinges back on so we've got our finished case now the inside of the doors they still need to be painted and we also need we also need to secure our handles so I have these house here which we're going out on clearance at my own local hardware store though about I think now about 55 cents out so I'm going to be putting some on the doors on the front and one on both of the fake drawer fronts so it just sort of adds to that overall look of the having real drawer sir even though there are so I've got two different sets of handles they're both the same style but once that is silver and one set is gold so the gold ones are going to go down now on the drawers and the silver ones are going to go on the pine doors so I'm just sort of eyeballing it's rough position now so I want them to sort of angle out a little bit and that looks good enough right there so I'm just going to mark a hole using my pencil for just gonna drill through this end here being fixed so that end can't really move out of that hole what I can do is I can look from above and just position it with the correct looking angle and put another mark so now I've got this mark here okay so now that handle is in its position so the case is complete now there is one thing that I haven't done yet and that is paint the inside of the doors because I haven't actually got any painter that yet we've got all of our Hardware mounted so we've got our two fake handles down the bottom for our fake drawers and we've got our two handles here now I'm not a hundred percent convinced that this was a good idea having the two handles on a different angle and a different offset so if I was to do it again I'd probably make them both the same and symmetrical but you know it was just something I thought I'd try and it doesn't look terrible it's just not as nice as I thought it might look and we also added these rare earth magnets at the top here which help keep the doors closed and we've also got the dart board mounted so to do that what we did was we cut a piece of wood which fit in the corners we mark the center line by going corner to corner and we put a screw in and all in all I think it looks really nice so all that's left to do now is obviously we still have to paint the bought the back of the doors and that will be done with chalkboard paint and hang it on the wall so the way I'm going to be hanging it is just pretty much bolting it straight into the wall and I'll put the bolts so there behind the board as well so they're not going to be seen but yeah so that's a really simple project now enjoyed this video and you want to see more weekly woodworking videos like this one make sure you subscribe so you can head over to YouTube and subscribe so youtube.com slash world's woodshop and click the subscribe button you can head over to Facebook and light for the page so that's facebook.com slash George woodshop and I've got the website which you can subscribe to as well so I just head to George woodshop calm and on the run the right-hand side of the page there's just a little email subscription box you might have to scroll down a little bit but enter your email and you'll be notified by email every time a new video article or blog entry is posted so thanks for watching make sure you subscribe if you want to see more videos like this one and I'll see

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