How To Make A Wooden Pocket Knife With Hand Tools

a table saw or a handsaw to cut out the parts into thin strips hardwood for the parts I'm using walnut maple the template of course it's a free download available on my website the link is in the description quarter inch and 1/8 inch dowels for the pins a hand drill or a drill press quarter inch and 1/8 inch drill bits a coping saw scroll saw or bandsaw to cut out the curves in the parts superglue various files to shape the parts glue stick for the template and a sanding block with 100 grit paper first thing to do is to cut the parts to 3/16 of an inch thick I'm using walnut for the handles and maple for the blade to give a kind of a nice contrast but you can always use the same wood for both now I can paste the template parts that I cut out onto the strips using the glue stick before I cut them out that I want to drill the holes in the parts for the pins probably the most accurate way to do that is at the drill press but if you've only got a hand drill I'm going to go through a way to do it very accurately and it starts with a piece of sheet metal this is a cover plate for a outlet box that I bought at you know the home center and I'm going to drill the two size holes right through it and then this will act as a guide that I can line up exactly with the template and drill the holes after the holes are drilled that I've filed the burr off and carefully lined it up on top of the part that I'm going to drill and clamped it down so it can't move when you're doing this you want to make sure that the drill is as vertical as possible it's a little bit off that's not going to make much of a difference I recommend going slow taking your time with this and if you do that the holes will be perfect every time I didn't mention it in my opening but you'll need a couple of clamps and if you have a vise that would be great as well I got to clap the pieces of wood in my vise and cut them out with a coping saw but you can use a scroll saw if you have it or a bandsaw and if you don't have an advice you can always clamp the wood down to your workmen or even a piece of wood I'm cutting these out I'm staying away from the line so I can fine tune the shape after probably the best way to cut out the spring that you'll need is to split it using a sharp knife and a block of wood to drive it in what this will do is it'll split the wood along the grain so that you wind up with a piece that will be straight grained all the way through when you split it off it should be a little bit thicker than you actually need that you can bring it down to the right thickness on your sanding block the spring is actually the trickiest part of this project to do right and you might have better luck with a stiff piece of plastic for example you can cut a spring from a piece of PVC pipe like this and sand that down to the right thickness now that the parts are cut out close to the line I can bring them right down to it with the files and sanding block until they're exactly the right size this part of the project takes the most time you really want to get these parts as close to perfect as you possibly can of course if you have access to power tools such as a one inch strip Center like I have here that will really speed things up probably the hardest parts to fit together are going to be the spy markets ablaze this has to be absolutely perfect you'll have to spend a lot of time filing this down to make sure that the parts fit together precisely a lock should slip into the notch in the blade with very little play the pivot hole in the blade and in the spine has to be made just a little bit bigger so that it turns freely around the dowels there's a couple of different ways to do this one is to use the drill bit by hand and just kind of ream it out or the other way is to use a very small round file to make the hole slightly larger next the paper templates can be taken off of the parts it might actually be easier to remove the paper by sanding it off the blade and the spine need to be made slightly thinner by sanding them down what you're looking for here is for the blade and the spine to be just slightly thinner than the butt the next thing to do is a dry fit it's going to be a miracle if your parts go together perfectly at this point there's going to be a little bit more adjusting to do before you can assemble the knife check in the action of the spine lock I see that it's actually hitting the stop pin slightly so I'll file a little bit of that away so that it goes all the way into the notch it's a good idea to glue in the butt at this time so I can check to make sure that the spring works correctly and make adjustments to length and the thickness so that it pushes the spine lock out with the correct force with the spring adjusted and installed without glue the next step is to put the other handle scale on and check to make sure that everything lines up and operates correctly here I'm having a small problem with the stop pin doesn't line up with the other side exactly so what I'm going to do is sharpen the end of the dowel on the sanding block so that it will slip into the other hole more easily it really doesn't matter too much if the pins are a little bit skewed with everything lined up adjusted and working correctly I can start putting it together for real this time I've cut a couple of paper shims now we'll go up around the hinge pivot to space the handles away from the blade and the only point that needs to get glued right now is the butt onto the other handle with the end fully glued together I can take it apart again make any further adjustments that I need to and then reassemble it I can see at this point that there really wasn't any need for the paper shims so that step could be skipped one adjustment that I'm going to do is sand down the end of the spine lock so that there's absolutely no interference when it goes back in now let's put back together I can mark the length of the dowels then cut them off to that length and put them back in now's a good time to slip in those paper wedges just to make sure that there's enough space between the handles and the blades now that the pins are cut off and put back in I can push them slightly out of the other side and then sand and flush on the sanding box I'm going to use super glue just on a surface I'm counting on it seeping down around and gluing the pin in place and when the glue is dried on that side I can do exactly the same thing for the other side sand it down and put glue in the pins with the pins fully glued in I can pull the shims out and check the knife to make sure it's still working correctly it is possible to get sandpaper in around the parts if it's thin enough to make some adjustment after it's put together but hopefully you won't need to do that at this point the last thing to do is to cut out the thumb stud and glue it onto the blade I'm using the same wood that I use for the blade for this and the soup blew the whole lid on with that done all I need to do is finish the sanding and shaping on the blade and on the handles the finish that I put on here was just mineral oil I didn't want to put any kind of oil that would set up because that will actually glue the parts together and you really want the parts to move freely on this I would recommend sticking to mineral oil actually after it's all assembled and working correctly oil it up and then every once in a while you know put a little bit more oil on it and it will work flawlessly if you do that if you're interested in making your own there's a template available on my website plus a full write-up build article to go along with it that covers a little bit more detail there's a couple years ago that I made my first folding wooden knife I made a video but the video only had pictures in it from when I did it I didn't think to make a video of it at the time I didn't think anybody would be interested in it but as it turns out I was wrong and the video has gotten quite a lot of use this one looks similar but it's a completely new design it's bigger it's also a bit better to design I was more careful with how I you know laid everything out so that when it closes it's nice and neat and when it's open everything looks good so let me know what you think of it in the comments yes it's not a real knife no it will not cut but that's not what I made it for this is although it's not a toy I would say it's more of a replica it'd be something that you could make depending on you know it doesn't matter how old you are you can make it and say look I made that and you know impress other people with it

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