How to Make a Sink, Countertop, Tap and Water System // Studio Kitchen – Ep. 3

Today we’re making a countertop, a sink
and the coolest tap ever. Let’s get started! There isn’t a square angle in this place
or even a straight wall or floor, so it means that I need to cut the right side of the countertop
at an angle to make things look right. If I rest the ruler against the non square
side of the cabinet and trace a line, I’ll get a parallel line that references that angle. Of course the cabinet is square in this case,
what isn’t straight is the wall, so furniture can’t really sit flush with it along the
entire extension. What I am using as a countertop is a super
heavy wood and cement board and because I got it in a fairly small thickness, I’ll
reinforce it with some plywood below. So I made a cut parallel to the non-square
line with the boards upside down. Then I connected them with only screws.

wasn’t so sure if I wanted to glue them so I didn’t. You know I always do things
knowing that sooner or later I will need to disassemble them to move out of this place. The final width of the countertop is 61 cm
so I kept using my plunge saw because it is much easier than lifting this big fat boy
to use the table saw. Also, this wood and cement board dulls the
blades a fit faster than regular wood so I didn’t want to mess up with many other blades. I wasn’t sure what type of edge I wanted
but I realised that most countertops have chamfered edges, at least the ones I’ve
seen, so I went for it using a 45º bevelling bit with the router. I guess it also helps
the material not to chip as much when put to use. I found the place to install the ceramic hob
and cut that rectangle out with the jigsaw. I sanded the top and edges with a fine grit
sandpaper and applied 3 coats of flooring acrylic varnish that was the most resistant
stuff I had on hand.

Eventually I found a countertop acrylic varnish and you’ll see
me applying it towards the end of the project. I had to remove a slice of material in the
cabinet framing to be able to insert the hob. By the end of the day, the countertop was
dry and I could bring it in. It was super heavy. I fitted the ceramic hob inside the hole and
it was done.

Two months later, I could find some days to
finish up what I had on mind for this project and started working on the sink. At first I was going to cut the hole but then
I realised I was crazy and it was better to build the sink first and then calculate exactly
where and how to put it. So I grabbed another wood and cement board
and laid out all the pieces to create the sink, using a white marker that traces lines
with the same thickness as my plunge saw blade. This made everything super simple and fairly
accurate. With all the pieces cut, I moved on to the
assembly and for that I used a clear glue/sealer. I didn’t calculate precisely where that
lower vertical piece should be, so I ended up filing some material in the back. I pealed of the squeeze out and applied the
backer piece to those filed edges. I wanted to reinforce the whole sink as it
will basically be floating and it was my first experience with this material.
Also I needed some tabs to actually screw the sink from underneath.

What I did was creating a frame around it
and to the frame I connected the tabs. It’s time to make a hole for the drain but
first I have to thicken up that bottom for the drain hose to clamp effectively. Ok, now I can finally drill the large hole
with a hole saw. This is not exactly something I enjoy doing
as large holes make tons of vibration and weird movements but this driller done really
well as it has an anti-kickback system to keep my wrists from getting damaged. I went through the first layer o there’re
two more to go. For the drain to sit properly, there has to
be sort of a big bevel in the hole. This part was kind of tricky because it was so close
to that step that I couldn’t get a good angle with the rasp. I even put a few layers
of gaff tape to preserve the edge. For the finish I got an invisible water sealer
and repellent and applied about 4 or 5 coats. After putting my thinking cap on I found a
way to now exactly where to install the sink.

First I marked the location of the cabinet
framing with tape and then positioned the sink upside down over the counter top to get
a mark for the corners. I then measured 3 cm in from those corners
and that measurement is actually inward the sink walls, so it means that when I cut on
the green line, I’ll still have extra material into the workpiece area that I can trim later
flush to the sink walls. I repeated the process for cutting the hole
for the ceramic hob. And since I was using the jigsaw, I took the opportunity to cut
a notch below the place where the tap is going to be installed.

Everything looked nice but I couldn’t hold
the weight of the sink with just one hands and screw it at the same time. Much better now. As you can see the cabinet
top framing is just a hair bigger than the sink tabs, that’s why I had to plan wisely
where to make the hole for the sink. I can finally trim off the remaining material
using a flush trim router bit that has a bearing on the lower part.

My main idea with this kitchen is to try to
hide that this is actually a kitchen, so this might not be the nicest looking thing in the
planet but I decided to make two shallow lids to cover both the hob and the sink. I used the same cement material and found
a few strips of yellow mdf left over from the lower cabinet and just glued them. So you might be asking how am I going to close
the sink lid with the tap standing there.

Well, the tap is gonna be retractable. When I was doing research for this project,
I found this super cool tap that is retractable but it didn’t make sense to buy such an
expensive tap for such an ephemeral and even primitive sink solution. So, of course I thought of making one. After some brainstorming and really cool suggestions
from social media followers, I found the tap in my head when reading Special_works comment. A transparent tap it is. So I ran half of the city trying to find the
materials and here’s what I’ve got. A piece of 20mm acrylic tubing, a piece of
silicone hose and some flexible electrical wire to stuff it. You will want to use silicone
and not rubber because the silicone doesn’t melt. I could insert the electrical wire with the
help of alcohol and found a beer bottle to use as my curve template. With the acrylic tube in place and a pair
of gloves on, I turned on the heat gun and rolled the pieces continuously until I felt
they were super wavy and ready to bend. I hold it still for a while and then waited
for it to cool completely.

I drilled a hole for the tap and sanded the
inside to prevent big scratches. This part doesn’t really matter. I was doing
water pumping experiments that didn’t work so just ignore these tubings here. But this is a cool thing. This is a wireless
switch and I’m gonna use it as a foot switch to turn the water on and off. I can’t run water pipes along the studio
to this wall, so my idea here is to create sort of a portable system using buckets. So first let’s install the drain and drain
hose and make a connection from the water pump to the tap. The tap is not really a tap,
it’s just a transparent arc but you get the idea. So I fitted the end of the water hose to a
tap connector and clamped it tight with a hose clamp. Before doing the water installation, I wanted
to finish once for all the countertop. I sanded it entirely and applied two coats of countertop
acrylic pudding, brlbrlbrl this reminds me of a super awesome video with dancing puddings
and I’ll leave the link in the description.

I made two holes in the fresh water bucket
lid to insert the hose and the pump wire. This is just a simple aquarium pump that I
got for 25€ from a pet shop and you can probably find a cheaper one. I need to find some bigger buckets but these
are perfect for testing. Now I need to install the wireless switch
and for that I made a hole to pass the wire through the interior of the cabinet because
the electrical outlet is behind one of the drawers. I fixed the bluetooth device and squeezed
myself to insert the plug in the socket. Now I can attach the tap to the hose and it
stands up just with friction and I can slide it down easily. It seems to be working and you can see me
pressing the switch to activate the water pump.

I can finally stick the switch to the recessed
base board. I
installed stainless steel piano hinges to the countertop lids and set them in the correct
place. Of course this is not a heavy use sink, it’s
just something to assist in the cooking process as I have a dishwasher machine. Anyway, this was a big challenge for me and
I hope you can find this interesting maybe to another situation like a camping portable
sink or something like that. Thank you so much for watching and for sticking
around for the whole Kitchen series.

A big shout out to Bosch and all my Patreon supporters
for making this project possible. Now, if you excuse me, I gonna make lunch… Just really quickly… I’m not sure if you
noticed that in the beginning I shot an image where I hide an extension cord behind the
cabinet. Well, it is actually inside this drawer and it’s super handy to plug the
small kitchen appliences and I can even close the drawer. Ok, bye.

As found on YouTube

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