How to make a Plate Rack Pt.1

good eye Steve here welcome to the workshop this is woodworking masterclass give us when I first started video and woodworking master class I thought there will come a point where I don't know all of a sudden I'll run out of projects to make and gee what do i do then you know I really didn't take my wife into consideration on that equation because she is always finding things for me to do the latest thing is a play track to display some plates not just ordinary dining room plates but these nice souvenir in ornamental type of flights so I thought alright and I had a look around and I saw some really nice play tracks from about the 1950s and 60s I just enjoyed the lines that they had in them so I thought well I'll make something along those lines and you'll notice a wrecking ball on four feet he's sitting right over there I'm not letting him anywhere near these plates I don't think he'll eat them but I'm sure he'd take them when you're Bob yeah good boy all right now draw the base line and that will represent the bottom of the plate rack and I've got this area under here if I want to put some adornments or any added features to it now I would grab a big plate and work out how it's going to sit now with a plate especially on a plate rack you have it leaning backwards you wouldn't have it sitting straight up and down like that because if someone slams the door the walls going to vibrate and it's going to fall off I'm not going to measure it but that's going to be 45 and if it's like that you can hardly see the plate because it's leaning back too far whereas I think 10-15 degrees it's still going to have that problem of it falling over so we'll go in the middle and say 30 degrees approximately and that looks nice so obviously when I tilt the plate back the height of the plate chain is the outside of the plate lies on that baseline and then if I pick it straight up and have a square behind it and they tell tit back and then what I actually did was mark with a pencil where that plate touched the square and then transferred that mark onto the MDF so that's where the top of the plate is going to be I think I'll run a rail behind it so it's got support here instead of right at the very top so I'll come down the bits at about two inches and I'll place a rail there and I'll have two lots of plates so I might have say another shelf there same thing with a smaller plate my clap where it's going to sit bring the back about 30 degrees mark it on the square what you can do put a bit of masking tape on the blade itself now line that up drop that back about 30 degrees mark that and then transfer that from that shelf so I've now got an overall idea of the actual usable workspace I need to make a plate rack that'll take some smaller place and some larger plates I'll put these out of the way before I break them or ice I guarantee you there will be no woodworking master class there would be no me and I still want to do something down here but this really it's just decoration at the moment I've got to work out what looks good in this work area where we're going to fit the place I'll just pull these across now that is going to be top shelf that is going to be the top of the plate this is where I want to put a shelf support and this is the baseline so up here at the top of a plate and we came down or a couple of inches for the plate support here so we'll do the same for the top shelf now we've got to figure out how deep I need to go that'll be to get another plate I figures got to come to this or come about that far and the top plate they're not going to be as big there's something smaller than this as well so it won't have to stick out so far I reckon crap out there now that's going to be the overall width in there I have to put a recess to hold the plates or a gutter if you like and the same in here you could just draw a line straight through there like that and there would be the shape of the sides and like it to do the job that'll be fine if you wanted to you could actually take out a lot of the inside and have ask a little sort of affect to it but I want to put some curves in there so I'll just grab my french curve and just play around see what I come up with barring my where these are coming to a point I've got a loaf of the thickness of the shelf and we'll just use 19 no it's a bit of a guide on that all 3/4 of an inch sort of half settled on the design so it flows backwards and that actually accentuates if you like or brings movement to the plates backwards see if this is going to be the bottom shelf I would like something hanging down underneath it because to me it's the punctuation is a bit too too sharp it's finished so just play adding this extra a little bit here it just gives it a bit more depth because I've come in bold this at the bottom if I bring this back at the top it sort of evens that I'm pretty happy with that I want to actually join this all together with through mortise and tenon joints so the tenon actually come through the side of the piece and I can either have it with a wedge which will mean it basically it stays together or I've worked out you know I might put some pegs in there and if I put pegs in that means you can knock the pegs out pull the Tenon's out and you can pull it apart so on the bottom shelf I'll have two Tenon's coming through and one on this shelf up here so I'll have something along those lines the shelf to tenants the shelf support for behind the plates with a tenon that's a top shelf with 110 because any narrow shelf shelf support there and I still want to do something under this shelf will work without as we go of course you don't have to do through Tenon's you can just boat join it you can glue it you could put a dovetail in there with a sliding dovetail in there you could put a lap joint whatever you like that's the shape I've come up with and I cut these slots here to line the Tenon's up with now I've got this shape the rest is relatively easy all I have to work out is how far between the sides what I'll do I'll keep it what you can buy from the hardware shop so we'll do 900 so 900 long which means that's going to be the shelf and we've also got to allow the extra for the Tenon's to go through the sides and if I'm using 18 mill saw set it's an inch and a half thirty-eight mil off of nine hundred that gives us about nine eight sixty between for the plates and I think that's going to look just fine and if it's not lady love can come down and make one herself don't tell her I said that all right got a lump of timber here I'll mark out the shelves I mark out the ends then I'll cut it all up clean it up then we start putting it together I've just come up against a bit of a problem because if I use the width I need here I haven't got enough timber to do the entire job out of the board but because the plates are on an angle I don't need the shelf guard all the way back to the wall so what I've done is shorten the shelf on both of them and by doing that I've saved a bit of timber and I now have this strip up here which I can use as the support strip behind the plate so that's something to think about if you don't need the full width of timber why use it let's break them down to the basic shapes the shelves I'm not worried about they basically are straight bits of timber that I've just got to run a groove down and I'll show you how to do that you could use a molding planner you can use a router I think I'm going to use a molding place now with this if you have the thickness up short you could put it through the thickness said beforehand to make sure it's all square but I thought I've used hand tools for a while number three will get me in a problem and this is just to smooth it off make sure it's nice and flat let me get a hit on this here now that being the case that suggests it's not flat and they might have a bit of a hollow in it I might start with a number seven and you'll notice the number seven plane goes across the entire length of that piece of timber so even if it's low in one part with this plane it can dip and right over the hollows but with this if there's a hollow the blade can't touch it because that bed is touching the rest of the timber so when we get one smooth shaving all the way along then I know it's flat and if you can hear that I'm getting some and I'm missing others now I'm getting full cuts and you can hear it from start to end do the same to the other side and just to show what I'm use five eighths I'll give an H and T Gordon want to spin so I might put that one up the same thing you can hear the hit in the mix the game when we get the same sound all the way through there's a full with shading so now I'm pretty confident that's nice and flat on both sides what I will do we just shoot at square at the back now I've done that what I can do is get the template lay it over the timber and square it up to this back line hold it in place grab a pencil and Mark it again and what I've got it there I'm actually gonna mark or I want these tenants to go mortises sorry all the Tenon's go through them and there I have the shape of the finished article so I've got a choice I can go over to the router I can make a template of this as I've done in the past quite frankly with this job I'd like to do it by hand I have said before with spoke shapes it really doesn't matter which spokeshave you use providing it's sharp there's record there Stanley and ones I prefer agent E Gordon but this will do a job just as well I've been using these two particular spoke J's for over 20 years and they haven't let me down it wasn't until I was introduced to Teri's that I just fell in love with them the main reason I love them so much is they have a very very fine mouth on them which to me gives me far more control over whatever i'm spoke shaving but as I said don't despair if you've picked a couple of these up for $15 each on ebay sharpen them and they going to work absolutely fine for you it's important when using spoke tapes to to read the grain there you go downhill but I wouldn't push a spokeshave uphill because that's where you're going to get your tear out so go down that way and down that way same applies with spokeshave if you're not gluing put a nice bit of candle grease on it candle wax and you'll find that it just flows a lot nicer when you start off especially this has been on the bandsaw so I've got all that chatter but when I cut through the chatter I'm just going to be lovely I guess this also it's the difference between someone who's making something as a production or someone who's doing it for hobby or for a loved one or just for the sheer pleasure of working with wood don't get me wrong I use machines on like machines but sometimes I really just enjoy getting in touch with my work and time doesn't matter and to me I'm transported back to the 1600 s and I'm a journeyman somewhere it's it's a lovely place to be and I don't think I would have had glasses in those days that perhaps I wouldn't be doing but wouldn't be alive if you seriously want to get into shaping I can highly recommend these again this isn't an agent II Gordon Show but I just love some of the stuff that can it this is a mini spoke show as opposed to that's a normal size and it is absolutely sensational for getting tuned to really tight little spots the other thing is if you haven't got one of these see if you can get hold of a nice little half round rasp these are actually luthier rasp so but there are other ones on the market and where you've got an area like this it's just a question if you can't get in with a spokeshave can then do it with ruff so with rough start course and work your way down to fine and then clean that up with sandpaper there we have it all nicely shaped no noise not much dust some shavings maybe but a pleasurable way to spend a bit of time I'll go ahead and that's what I'm going to finish this one with a spokeshave – I'm not even going to turn the machine on for this actually I think this is a good time for me to say this is Steve pulling the shed door down on another episode and saying remember to keep it sharp but more importantly keep it safe enjoy your wood work be nice to one another and I look forward to having your company in the shed soon if you like what we do please Like us on Facebook or join up the II work shop at woodworking masterclass dot-com dalle you bye for now what

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