– How you doing, I'm Matt! Today, we're gonna build this
awesome DIY storage chest. You can use this inside to
store blankets, quilts, toys. We're actually gonna use this on our deck as a storage ottoman, because my wife wanted to be
able to put our covers in here and not blankets or quilts, but the kind that we
cover our sectional with, our table and a place to kick our feet up and relax a little. – Let me see you kick your foot up. (grunting) Did y'all see that?
– It barely made it on the camera.
– Very easy build, free plans available. Link in the description below. Let me show you how I did it. So the first thing we got
to do is cut out the boards that's going to make up
the side and end panels. Very easy. Just cut six one-by-sixes, 36 inches long and then
six 22 1/2 inches long. And that's going to make
both sides of your box. (slow rock music)
(saw whirs) Once that's done, I just lay out the holes where the pocket holes are going to go.
I just split them evenly. I'm going to use my
Massca M2 Pocket Hole Jig set on a 3/4 inch setting here. You going to start drilling
pocket holes, two per board, evenly spaced, very easy. Be sure to hit that subscribe button, click that bell icon next to it so you get notified of
all of our new content. After the pocket holes,
I just sanded everything to 120 grit, glue, pocket hole screws, and a face clamp to help
everything stay lined up is all you need. Make up all four panels. There'll be a link in
the description below to the tools and supplies
I'm using in this build. When you're assembling these panels, make sure to keep both ends
aligned as perfectly as you can. Also, if you don't have
a jointer or anything, I didn't join any of these boards. I just factory edge to factor edge. It'll give it a little more detailed look.
The only size screw you're going to need for this project is 1 1/4
inch pocket hole screws. This is an extremely easy
beginner woodworking project that you can do with minimal
tools and minimal experience. There's free plans available, links in the description below. Next thing we're going to
do is cut out the legs. So I'm going to set my table
saw at 2 3/4 of an inch and rip four boards, 2 3/4 of an inch wide by 19 1/4 long. Then I set the table saw at two inches, and I rip four boards, two inches wide by 19 1/4 inches long. So I actually just ripped
all of these parts out of the two-by-six. So if you haven't noticed,
I've been using CMT blades recently on my miter saw and table saw.
If you use the code in
the description below at Taytools.com, you can get 10% off. These are really, really good blades. Once we have the leg parts cut out, we just use our one of
a kind glue spreader and some wood glue. Glue them edge to edge here. What you're going to wind up
with is a 2 3/4 by 2 3/4 leg. You want to join them edge to edge. I just use pin nails to hold
them while the glue dries. If you don't have a Brad
nailer or a pin nailer, you can just clamp these
and leave them clamped until the glue is dry.
We got all our sides made and our legs. And now it's time to
start assembling the box. It's pretty simple actually. So what we're going to do
is I'm going to assemble it upside down. It's always easier to do that. The wider side I'm going
to put to the front. This is the front of my box,
and we got it upside down. We're going to lay it on our
bench so that this and this are flush on the bench. That way, when you flip it
over, they're flush on the top. This is also going to give
it a little more detail than if we just put some legs on there that were flat against the face here.
So all we're going to
do is put glue in there and then Brad nail it
or pin nail it in place. Just going to hold it for the glue to dry. You want to spray that glue with that one of a kind glue spreader you got. Once the glue is spread out pretty good. Now I just clamped it on there because I want to check
and see if this is flush down here, or what's going to be the top. If that's not flush, you're
going to adjust it now, before you attach it. (hammer taps)
We've got it flush to this face and we've
got it all the way against the ingrain of those boards. And we're just going to attach those. You can use Brad nails, finish nails. You can leave it clamped
until the glue dries. If that's what you want to do. (nail gun clicks) So your assembly should
look something like that. I'm going to assemble the other end, but just to show you. Your side pieces will go
on exactly the same way, except for they're going
to go into this groove.
We're going to clamp those down, nail those into place
so that the glue dries. (rock music) (nail gun clicks) (nail gun clicks) Now that the box is
assembled, we've got to build the bottom and on mine
because it's going outside, I left gaps in there. So I just use four one-by-sixes
I cut 34 5/8 inches long, and then drilled two
pocket holes on each end. And I sanded to 120 grit. Then I just attached them
flush with the bottom. (rock music) After the bottom is installed, I ripped out two inch pieces
and then cut them to fit the size that I needed to go as trim. We're going to do this
on the top and the bottom all the way around.
I just cut those, test fit them in place. And then once I figured out
that I liked the way it looked, then I use glue and pin nails
again, to hold it in place. If you don't have a pin nailer again, you can just clamp these
until they are dry. (rock music) This gives the box a whole lot more detail than just leaving it without. It's very simple to do.
These are all square cuts. Next thing we're doing
is cutting out the top. We're going to need five pieces
that are 37 5/8 inches wide.
And make sure to measure your box to make sure that it's accurate, but we're going to rip one of
those down to a smaller strip. Drill our pocket holes and
get ready to just put glue and pocket hole screws in and attach four of those
five pieces together. (rock music) Once you have those together, take a measurement on your
box for the depth and then measure and mark that depth onto your top. And then we're going to
rip that last piece out with the table saw. It should be about 3 5/8 inches wide. Once that's ripped, you're
just going to attach it to the top. (rock music) And for the top, I just
cut some two inch strips and attach them to the top. Make sure you leave
some space on the front and back so that it can open and close. And then I just attach those
with glue and Brad nails. All that's going to do is
help it be a little more rigid so that the top doesn't
flex and warp over time, especially since this
one is going outside. (rock music) It look good, ain't it? So we've got everything.
We've got it trimmed out. Next, I got to sand all this, but first I want to go
ahead and put the top on because I got to mount the
top and then take it back off so we can stain it. Here's the top. I just put those extra
supports on there so that it doesn't cup on us later. It's just glue and some
Brad nails, it's fine. Let's see how she fits. Pretty good, not perfect,
but it's not a clock. It's just a storage box. There's like 1/32 or 1/16
overhang right there. It'll be fine. It'll be all right. You wouldn't even know
if I ain't told you. Yours is going to be the same way. So I'm gonna go ahead and mount this. We're going to put the hinges on the back. I'll show you how to do that. And then we will sand
this and get it stained and ready to go. I am going to chamfer
these edges so that they are not sharp.
I may actually chamfer
the inside of all of this. Yeah. I think I might. And then of course the corners, top. I like chamfering. Link in the description
below to plans for this, as well as all the tools and
supplies used in this build. So I picked up these hinges
at a local hardware store and attach them. You see me trying to figure
out which way I wanted to put them. This is actually the
only way they would work. So I attached those. I've used my spring loaded
nail punch to mark the holes where they go. That way, when I pre drill my holes, the drill bit wouldn't move on me. I would actually be able
to drill those holes more accurately. Then we just attach those
with the provided screws and also attached a handle on the front to help open and close the lid. (rock music) Then I use a 45 degree
chamfer bit on my Palm router and then routed the
inside and outside edges of the whole box, except for the top.
I left it flat so that
when you close the lid, it closes flat. (rock music) Then I sanded the 120 grit and everything is looking good so far. (rock music) So now let me show you how
I'm going to stain this and make it outdoor ready. If you want to use this outdoors, it needs to be treated with something that's going to give it a
little weather resistance. This is what we're gonna use. Like on our outdoor sectional build, we're using this Cabot
Australian timber oil. It's in jarrah brown color. Now I put that in my Home
Right Finish Max sprayer and sprayed it on. You can brush this stuff on, but it's really thin, like water thin. So you're just going to spray light coats, be careful of runs. And then what I did was spray
the bottom of the box first so that I could get the
underside of that trim as well as the bottom. Then I flipped it over,
sprayed the inside of the box and then all four sides.
And it takes this stuff
about 48 hours to dry. So make sure you check the weather and not gonna have any
rain for a couple of days. Then we just reattach the lid
using the same screw holes that we created earlier. And as Miss 731 unrolls
and packs up this cover, you'll notice a little block
of wood under the lid there. That was just so that the lid could dry after it was attached. Now she can kick her feet up and relax. Now that she's got a place to
store those outdoor covers. (rock music) If you haven't seen the
matching sectional build, there's a link at the end of this video that takes you right to that build. It's a really cool, easy build as well. (button clicks)
(bell rings) Hey, if you liked this video,
click that box right there. It's going to take you to the
outdoor DIY sectional build we did a few weeks ago. Clicking that box gets you
a big old virtual fist bump. Thank you so much for watching..