How to Make a DIY Shoe Rack with a Unique Finish

Today we're building a DIY shoe rack
with a burnt shou sugi ban finish I've had these spalted pine boards sitting on my
wood rack for a long time and I was never sure what to build with them
they've got a ton of character but I didn't have that much material now the
board still had a live edge on them but they're in pretty decent shape other
than some large knots but most of them were fairly flat with the exception of
this one this one was more like a guinea pig seesaw than a flat board now I
didn't have enough material without using this one so I had to cut off the
biggest part of it that was bowed to try to help flatten it and to get straight
edges on these boards I went to the jointer I joined it one edge flat to
give me a good reference surface for the table saw fence now but the bowed board
I had to also face join it to take that out and this is a task that only a
jointer can do without special jigs or sleds and after a few passes it was
pretty near flat and the shoe rack is gonna have three shelves and I was now
limited by the length of this short board so I used that piece to mark the
best sections of the other ones and trim them to size I cut all the parts down on
my miter saw and if you're using dimensional lumber like 1 by 4 or 1 by 6
is for your shelves you can just go ahead straight to this step and not have
to worry about all this but cut to rough length with a straight edge I ripped the
boards to width each shelf is gonna be made of a wider
piece and a narrow one I had to vary the cuts on the boards a
bit to make sure I could get those same width when I glued up each of these
panels I'd rough playing these boards back when I got it but since I faced
joined in one of the boards I needed to take the other ones down a bit in
thickness to get them to the same size so I busted out my planer from jet the
sponsor today's video and got to work milling everything down to a strong 3/4
of an inch the jet jointer and planer are a great combo in my shop and they
let me work with rough wood that I get from people who know I'm a woodworker
Strangers off Craigslist or in this case one of my dad's friends
a milling machines like these open up a whole new side of woodworking and if
you're serious about the Hobby I highly recommend getting a planer and a jointer
I'll have links below in the description where you can find out more about these
thanks to jet for sponsoring this video after milling all the boards I laid them
out and I matched them together for the best look I could get for each panel and
the glue up isn't much to speak of here with only two pieces per panel one thing
to watch out for though is with soft woods like pine you can really dent them
if you clamp too hard so I used off cuts between the panels and the clamp jaws
too even the pressure along the edges and help avoid those dents so the
shelves are drying for the glue up and now I need the pieces for the sides and
I grabbed this cedar from my off cut bin this is from the modern outdoor chair I
made and I want to use cedar because I'm gonna try
shou sugi ban if I said that right shou sugi ban (in computer voice) basically it's
where you burn the wood and turn it black I think a black finish is gonna
look really cool with the stains that are in that pine from the spalting so
I'm gonna put this together and then we'll go through the shaggy bond process
and see how it turns out the cedar I grabbed was almost one in three quarters
of inch thick and I wanted to bring it down to one and a half inches so I ran
all the sticks through the planer to thin them down and from there I went
back go to the table saw and ripped the board so they would be one and a half
inches square this is the same dimension of a standard 2×2 that you'd buy from
the Home Center so you could definitely use that versus milling your own I cut
off one side of each cedar piece on the miter saw to establish a square end then
I use that freshly cut side against the stop block to cut four tall legs to size
now these will be connected with some short pieces to make the side frames and
since my stop block only goes down to 13 inches I set it to 10 inches longer than
what I needed and I used a 10 inch spacer to offset that cut now this is an
easy little trick to get repeatable cuts under 12 inches with a stop block system
I'm using pocket holes to join the side frames and once it's all assembled all
the holes are gonna be hidden what if you prefer you could use mightor's or
dowels here for the connections as well now I symbol the frames with two and a
half inch pocket screws and normally I wouldn't use glue on an ingrained a long
grain joint like this since it's not very effective but with the heat from
the sashimi bond burning that I'm going to be doing I figured any extra hold is
gonna help and be good because I thought those frames might work a little bit I'm
gonna have free plans for this build using off the
shelf lumber in a cut list that you can modify if you want to so check the link
down below in the description if you want to build one yourself it's a tight
fit to get your drill in on these frames so you're gonna need to switch to a
shorter driver bit or use a right angle attachment now the center shelf is held in place by
two small supports in the middle I ripped an extra short support in half to
make those two parts I measured and marked the frame to give 10 inches of clearance
on the bottom shelf in 8 inches for the middle shelf nice size these to fit our
shoes and my boots are gonna go down low so that's why it's a little bit taller
but you can adjust this to fit your needs whatever you want and now it was
time to go outside and try my hand at cheeky bon now I'm using a mat pro-gas
torch here but a propane burner like what you use for soldering would work
fine as well now or if you want to go all mad max' on it you can use a weed
burner torch and a really put out some flame I use some scrap cedar and I was
torching the wood and trying a few different techniques and basically you
can go from just lightly burning it to charring it really good but honestly
just try it yourself and you'll get the hang of it really quickly and see what
you like and being an Eagle Scout I always love to make a little fire so I
did a couple different combinations of doing it kind of lightly away and then
putting the flame right on it I really like how the flame just right on it kind
of chars it a bit better and then also it's about how you scrape it so I use
two different types of scrapers just like a hard nylon brush and then a hard
wire brush and the hard wire is really aggressive so I think I really like the
nylon bristle look and charring it so that's what I'm gonna go for but it's a
great idea to test things out before you jump into it so get some scrap and do
some burning and just see how it looks and see if you like it because I don't
know what I'm doing but hey you can see what you like depend upon the materials
in the wood that you have – I think the frames on my welding table and I started
charring them nice and crispy and obviously use caution here and do this
outside and have some water nearby if you're gonna need to put out any flames
now like I mentioned I was a little nervous that the heat was gonna mess
with the frames and make them warp but it didn't at all the only real issue I
had trying to burn these was in the corners it left this little thin
where the pieces met and I couldn't quite get a char in there but instead of
just really scorching it and Gator backing the wood I just left it be and
yes this is as fun as it looks here's a shot of the before and after and you can
see what a cool look this gives the cedar and how different it is from the
natural wood and right as I was about to start scraping I also had a change of
heart I was really digging this super dark look so I decided to see what it
would look like if I had just wiped this it off versus brushing it off because
when you brush it made it a little bit lighter I used some shop towels and I
wiped off some of the loose debris and I loved how it looked so I rubbed the rest
of the soot off of the frames and then I took him inside for finish I put on a
coat of water-based polyurethane to seal in the char and deepen that color and
the wood was really dry as expected and it soaked that first coat right up in
most spots now while the first coat was drying I
switched back over to the shelves now since the shelves are less than 13
inches I ran them through my planer for a few light passes to smooth everything
out instead of spending my time sanding that joint flush after that I took them
over to the table saw and I pulled out Fred the sled to cut them to their final
size I squared one edge of each shelf for a good reference surface and then I
clamped a stop block on my fence and set it to the final shelf length this let me
safely and easily cut the three shelves to the same length to soften the edges I
put a chamfer on the top side of all the shelves with my router and hearing
protection is clutch when you're doing loud operations like this now you see me
wearing these ISO Tunes earbuds for a couple years now and I really enjoy them
if you want to try pair out ISO Tunes is offering $10 off your order using code
ft bTW so check the link below in the description if you want to grab a deal
on a pair now after saying in the shelves I put on some finish and it
really brought out the character in the wood I usually hate pine with just a
clear coat on it but I was loving how it looked with the dark streaks and after a
second coat those legs were looking amazing and it was a great pairing and I
gotta tell you I am really pleased with the way that this finish came out I'll
give you some close-ups here but the look on it is really nice it's got a
decent Sheen there is nothing as far as picking up as
they suit all that is trapped in there and it just has a super rich finish this
your shitty BOTS sure let's do Eva I would give it two thumbs up I think it's
a great look and it's gonna go really well with the platforms and the spalting
in the pine so let's get it put together I flip the sides upside down and I
started with the top I'm just using screws to attach the shelves but pre
drilling them first i spaced the legs in from the end of the shelves and this
overhang really makes the contrast between the pine and the burnt cedars
stand out when I flipped it over to attach the middle shelf I realized I had
made a mistake yeah I didn't think about where I was putting the screws and these
literally just went right into the recess of the pocket hole and grabbed
almost no wood on that side so I rejected where the screws went and I
also upgraded to two inch screws from the one and a quarter that I was using
to make sure that I had a solid hold I flipped it over this time without
ripping the top shelf off and I clamped the center shelf in place and attached
it with screws I had to go back to one of the quarter-inch screws here because
of that thinner Center support now for the bottom shelf I flipped it back over
yet again and I clamped the shelf in place and secured it with screws from
the underside using those longer 2 inch screws here as well while I had it
upside down I drilled some small recesses in the feet and put some rubber
foot pads on there to keep the wood off the ground and help keep it level now
this was a very simple build but I got to use some interesting wood and try a
new finishing technique out and I even made a great place to put some footwear
to boot if you want to watch another video I've got a great playlist of DIY
furniture projects queued up for you right there you can check out if you
want the plans for this build you can check them down below in the description
until next time guys get out there and build something awesome

As found on YouTube

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