How to Make a Bandsaw Box In a New Creative Way | Easy Woodworking Project

Welcome to make something with
me, David Picciuto and today, we're going to make a bandsaw box. Before we get into the making of this
bandsaw box I'd like to tell you about today's sponsor. And that. Is Squarespace. My website and my podcast website
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when you're ready to launch, visit
for 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain. So I have my
pieces cut up for the band saw box. I've got a piece of zebra
wood for the front and back, and then just Baltic Birch
plywood for the middle.

I really liked the Baltic Birch plywood
because it has these beautiful lines in there. If you get the good stuff. The
thickness of this doesn't really matter. It's just going to determine
the depth of your drawers. But one of my limitations
is on my little bandsaw, I can only cut so thick. So
this falls within my band, all limitations. So I know we'll
be able to cut this up over here. So this is roughly three and a quarter inch thick. So now. We're just going to add some
glue and glue them together. These cheap F style clamps from
Harbor freight work great for that. So now we can let that sit
and dry for a couple hours. So we have our blink all glued
up. I drew this in illustrator. I've made lots of bands, all boxes, and this time I want to do
something a little bit different. Typically I have the whole
thing out of one block, but these drawers right here, I think I'm going to use a
different contrasting wood.

And then we can get some
tighter tolerances with the, with the boxes and whatnot. This isn't meant to look
like Bender from Futurama. I don't even watch Futurama. I
just, hopefully when I'm done it, doesn't look like Futurama. We're doing a little bit of shop upgrades
and where my bandsaw normally is, isn't going to work. So I'm actually going to bring my
little band saw over to the workbench. So I'm just going to use a little
bit of spray adhesive to attach this. Yes. Line up that bottom line
with the bottom of the blank. Now we can take this over to the bandsaw
and we're just going to cut the outside the line going right through
where the drawers are. I want to go right outside the line, get as close to I can without touching
it that way I can sand down to the line in a later step.

This is a 3/16th, four
TPI skip tooth blade. This is a blade that I've had the most
success with working on the bandsaw. I only use two blades and
this is the blade that I use. 98% of the time. The other one is a resaw
blade on the bigger band saw. I get asked all the time where I get the
blades as always links to everything is down in the description.
This is, this is the blade. This is the one that you want. So now it is time to cut
the back off of this box. Typically in the past, I've used a fence on there and rode
this up against the fence today.

I'm just going to cut to a line. Sometimes I find cutting
to a line is just easier. So I'm just going to draw a line on here. And then cut that out. Dan just pointed out that my
table is not set to 90 degrees. That's something you might want
to check before doing this. I've already started.
I'm just going to commit. And I know that my back
is going to be like that. Big deal. This is just a benchtop, uh, it's say RIKON 10-305 or whatever.

And as far as benchtop, bandsaws,
this thing has been excellent. This is not sponsored. I've even removed their logo to let
you know this is not sponsored. Um, but this, uh, I'm, this is about, the max that you can cut on here. And this blade works really
well at cutting large boards. I don't always like recommending tools
cause I hate to steer somebody in the wrong direction, but this bandsaw is relatively
cheap compared to a lot of bandsaws cheap as in price, but I get a lot of value out
of it and it's nice and small. I can get a good cut on there
with the right blade. So, uh, let's, let's square up my table. So this is my bandsaw box book. Typically,
when you go to cut the drawers out, you enter from the side and then you
have this kerf cut that you have to hide later this time, we don't
have to hide any kerf cut.

We can just come in right from
the side and I will cut out all of those, just like so. Same blade,
not changing blades at all today. So there's one. When you get to
this, this tight radius right here, it's, it's sort of like
driving a stick shift. There's this equilibrium of push and turn. You can't just turn it without pushing. Otherwise you're going to twist that
blade. So you'll get a feel for it. If you're new to the bandsaw it,
it takes a little bit of practice, especially on bigger
chunks of wood like this. If you're just cutting
something really thin, you can actually force it through
the blade and cut whatever you want. But when you get into something that's
four inches thick. It's a, it's, it's a, it's a feel. You get a feel for how much you have
to push and how much you have to turn.

So two more to go. Another tip on the bandsaw
is don't push too hard. Let the blade do the work.
You're this is really thick. So there's a lot of waste
that has to be removed. That's why we had the
four TPI blade in there. Cause it has the big gullets and
allows that waste to be moved. If you push it too hard, the blade is going to drift and
you're not going to get a clean cut. You're also going to get burning because
it can't remove that waste fast enough. So just take your time and let
the blade do your work.

And yeah, that lookf a lot less like Bender now. No, it is time to glue that
back, back on there. And even though our table
wasn't set to 90 degrees, it will all work out just fine. So just throw a little bit of glue on here. Actually, you know what we should do Lightly sanded the inside, not much just wanting to remove
some of the rough teeth marks, but I didn't want to change the
shape or expand the hole anymore. Just light sanding. Now we're going to glue that back back on, try to line up that kerf
as perfect as possible. So we can hide that cutline can never have enough woodworkers telling you,
you can never have enough clamps. So for the drawers, I want to use a
dark piece of Walnut. So I have this, that is rough on both sides. So we need to mill this flat. So I'm just going to cut a strip off over. This is what I'm going to [inaudible]. I'm just gluing up the blank for the
drawers, got some walnut.

And again, with the plywood, this might
be a little bit too thick, but I can plane that down If I need to, I do you want the drawers to stick
out a little bit more to give it some, some depth and a little bit more
of a design-ish kind of feel. So once again, I'm just using
these cheap Harbor freight clamps. These are like $3.99, $2.99, and you can never have enough of them can
never have enough woodworkers telling you, you can never have enough
clamps. So while this is drying, we can take the clamps off
of this and start sanding. So this is why we left
the paper on until now, because we can sand down to that
line to get that perfect shape. So I had a glue up failure
right there. This, I don't know. I don't know if you
can see that on camera, but I need to get glue in there
and then clamp that back down. So what we're going to do is we're
going to heat up some glue to thin it down And get some glue in there.
I'll have a link to this.

This is all syringe kit that you can
get on Amazon. It's like 10 bucks. It comes with all different sizes and
then a bunch of different needles. I didn't know if the glue had come
out of that tiny little needle and it does. It definitely does. So I cut out the ovals for
the drawers. And once again, I'm using some spray adhesive
to attach it to the wall. Then we'll cut this out on the… So we got the three drawers cuts.
I got the Walnut on the both sides.

Now this is probably not going to fit in
there just yet because we need to sand down to the line. And this is currently, I want it to stick out
a little bit. Right now. It's probably sticking out too much.
So I need to cut off a little bit. But before I do that, I want
to experiment with something. I'm going to take my Dremel and I'm
going to do a bunch of little divots in there just to give it some

And if I like it, I'll keep it chop off a little bit
off the back. If I don't like it, I have some room to just chop
it off and get rid of that. It goes a lot quicker
than what you might think, but I like that. It
looks cool. It's random. So I think the next steps is to, well, I got to the next step for me is to figure out how much
I want it to stick out. So do you think I need to cut off
about a quarter of an inch back there? So I drew my line on there
so I can thin this down. That means also I'm
cutting my template off. So I'm going to have to
reattach a template so I can
send down to the line in a later step. When you have something that's kind
of wobbles like this into the blade, the blade is going to want
to take it and throw it up. So I'm just going to grip it very firmly. And then once it enters in there,
then I should be good to go.

It's that first initial grab. It's going to want to throw my
hand right towards the blade. So we've got the templates, reattached.
This will not be the, the back, but these are all three,
the exact same size. And there is no top or bottom right now. So what we need to do is
go back to the band saw, or we're going to cut off the front
and then we're going to cut the back, cut off the front, cut
off the back and so on.

And then we can take that
middle piece and scoop that out. I'm going a little bit thicker
on the front. Actually. I might have to go a lot thicker, huh? Yeah. I want to go way
back here. All right. So ignore that line again. This is dangerous
because it's going to want to grab, so just get a really firm grip
at first and then you can, you can loosen up once the
blade has entered.

Penetrated So we've got our three pieces. And so I'm going to set the back
on the front side for a second. And this middle piece is
going to slide into here. And since this is going to
stick out over here on the edge, I want the inside of the box to
start somewhere inside here. I don't want to start out here cause
then there's going to be a little, a little hole.

So let's say I'm going to go here and then I can take those two marks. And then I can, once again,
I'm just gonna use my fingers to draw What we, the waste that we want to remove. It didn't hit my line, but I
don't really care. Let's see, this is part C here's my C pieces. So this will be, So that'd be my drawer. So I'll cut out the other two and then
we'll glue them all back together. And then we can sand down to that line. Now we're just gluing everything
back up, just like the box. I'm not sanding in the inside here,
because I'm going to flock that later. It's all going to get covered. I went ahead and did a round over on the
outside and then an even smaller round over on the inside. And then these guys, we sanded down to the line and they go in like, so, So I'm happy with the way
this looks on the outside.

I love the texture. What I'm not digging is how
the plywoods don't line up. I like how this sticks
out, but on the sides, I don't know if we can see that. If I, if I just remove a little bit
of material on the back there, then these will line
up a little bit better. So I'm going to sand the
backs of the drawers down. I can remove that paper and then also
put a little round over here on the front to help with the
transition. But I love, I love that texture that's
coming out really good. We're just going to put
some finish on these guys. I'm going to flock the
inside of the boxes. It covers up all those bandsaw marks
and these a nice velvety finish on the inside.

Try not to get finished on the inside
of your boxes because that might affect the way it sticks. I think I'll be okay. But rule four is
definitely in effect today. The drawers are flocked. Sometimes
I flocked before adding finished. Sometimes I flock after adding finish,
but basically it's just this fibrous, this colored fibrous stuff with
a colored glue that matches. And then that lines,
the inside of that, I, I have a whole book on bandsaw boxes.
This is the first book I've written. This particular box is not in this book, but I will have link to signed copies of
this book.

I also have two more books. I've got the, make your own cutting board book
and then hot off the presses is the make your own kitchen tools
book. They are back in stock. So check out my website, make for
that this little band saw has been fantastic.
This is the Rikon 10-305. I know that some people have bought it's
either the three or five or three or six. I'm not sure the difference. And have had trouble getting the
blade to track on the wheel correctly.

I have not. So I don't know if there was
a flaw in some of the Rikons. I know that I've had good success.
I've heard other people have nuts. So yes, I recommend this,
but keep in mind. Um, and uh, somebody may have told me
I have a terrible memory. Somebody may have told me that they
now have corrected that issue. I can't, I can't really remember. Anyways, I have not had any trouble with
tracking the blade on mine. Uh, again, that is a four TPI three
16th skip tooth blade.

There's a link to that down below
in the description. It's the blade. I it's the blade. I use
98% of the time. So, um, I thought about adding a little
base to it and then decided against it. I think it's fine on its own. Um, the reason I was thinking about adding
a base is just give it a little bit more weight on the bottom. Hold
up. I changed my mind. I did make this base to give it a
little bit of visual weight along the bottom. It doesn't need it
for any kind of structure. I just thought it would even
out the design a little bit, if it had something to sit on.
So I made this little platform. This is just out of a solid piece of
Walnut with a chamfered edge and that texture on the front.

Whoever buys this gets to choose
which side they want the front. Cause there is this not here, which could add a little design
elements or they could hide that, not and keep it and the back. So they, whoever buys this gets to choose
how this wants to sit on there. I do have a book on bandsaw boxes. This box is not in there and this
template is not going to be available because I am considering this
a one-off piece of art. Now, if you want to make
this, you can draw it up, but I am not going to
provide you that template.

I don't care if you go ahead and try
to make this that's totally cool. I'm just not going to provide that
template. The base is not attached. It's just going to sit on there.
I make the rules around here. It's just a platform.
It's just a, it's a stand. It's a way to raise it
up a little bit. So yeah, I feel much better about
this since adding the base, it really evens things out,
visually. All of this wood, including the plywood, walnuts and zebra wood came
from my friends at Kencraft
and they do sell online. So check them out at Of course, this isn't a practical box. Uh,
it's doesn't have drawer pulls.

So you got to fight to
open it. He don't really, but some people are going to complain
there. How do you open the drawer? And like the, they don't hold a lot
of things. That's not the point. The point is to make something.
This is more of a piece of art. This Is a something you would have on an
end table or on a shelf or in a dining room. This is not something
you use every day. So not everything we make
has to have great importance. Some things can just be about the pleasure
of making stuff and then having it as a showpiece and art piece. So I consider this art that
is going to wrap it up. Um, you may have seen weird
things going on in the shop. We talked about that over on Patrion.
So if you are a Patreon member, you already know what's going
on. You've already, you know, Patreon people are in the know.
That's going to wrap it up. Thank you for watching as always be
safe, have fun and Make Something..

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