How to Install Door Casing + Design and Make Wood Molding

support for this episode is provided 
by mohawk finishing products   i've been using mohawk finishing products since 
1986. from sandpaper to fill sticks mohawk has   all your finishing needs click on the link in 
the description below and visit mohawk today everyone and welcome back to the shop this is 
the door that goes to the shed space now the new   finishing room i just finished trimming it out 
and i think this is a pretty simple but classic   design that will look great in any home and you 
can make the moldings yourself using your router¬†¬† and the table saw for the casing i'm using 1×4¬†
poplar poplar is relatively inexpensive has a   nice tight grain so it's great for painting and 
lumber dimensions are always a little smaller than   described so 1 by 4 actually measures three and a 
half by three quarters of an inch the first thing   i like to do is establish the reveal the reveal is 
the space between the casing and the face of the   gym i'll cut a stick at 5 16 of an inch and hold 
it flush with the face of the jam and trace a line i'm using this stick to make the reference marks 
at the top about a third of the way down the door   at the center and at the bottom i've put a square cut on the bottom of the casing 
and now i'll hold it against the jamb and make a   mark at that reference line on the other side of 
the door again i'll hold the casing up make a mark   at that line and that's my next cut on the upper 
right hand corner of the jamb the sheetrock is a   little proud of the jam and one way to deal with 
that is to just pound the rock in a little bit holding the casing to the reveal mark on the 
jamb i nail the casing to the jamb first and   you'll notice that i hold the gun like 
this and not like this and that's because   when the nail comes out of the gun it's 
more likely to bend this way or that way with the side legs attached i'll 
take a measurement for the head piece   and that's 44 inches even okay that looks pretty good i'm flush on both 
sides but to dress it up a little bit i'll add a   piece of bead molding to the bottom and i'll make 
the bead molding using a bead molding bit in the   router this is the router bit that i'm using and 
i'll have a link to it in the description below i'll be attaching the bead molding to the 
bottom of the head piece flush with this¬†¬† reveal line so i'll hold a piece of 1×4 at¬†
that reveal line and trace a line at the back next i'll measure from the front 
to that line which is 15 16   and i'll make this cut on the table saw for the next cut i want to just remove 
the reveal on this side of the molding   and that measurement is a little heavier than 
5 16.

Pushing thin pieces of molding through   the table saw is one of the more dangerous 
things to do and one way to avoid that is to   push the molding through just a little more than 
halfway flip the molding over and finish the cut oh after cutting the first miter i'll 
hold the molding with the reveal line   at the edge of the board at the other side 
i'll use a sharp pencil to trace a line   for the next cut using a little wood glue 
and one inch nails i'll attach the molding for the return i'll use the off cut for 
this piece i only need a little glue next i'll dress this up a little more by 
adding a two inch cap to the head piece on second thought i think an inch 
and three quarters will look better   remember when you cut the cap to length you want 
to have the same reveal all the way around and   since the reveal from the head to the edge of 
the cap is one inch i'm going to add two inches   to the measurement of the head which is 44 inches 
and that would make the measurement of the cap 46 before i attach the cap to the head piece i'll use   a chamfer bit in the router 
to soften the bottom edge i'm attaching the cap to the head 
piece keeping it flush at the back   and making sure that my reveals are even now that i have the headpiece 
assembled i'll go ahead and attach it   to the top of the casing legs all right well 
i am really happy with the way this turned out   and if you're going to be putting up casing 
there's a good chance you're going to be putting   down baseboard so i'll show you a good idea 
for that that will go great with this design   when you're thinking of a molding design it's 
important to think of how the molding will end   and i like the molding to end in a dead end and 
the way to make that happen with this design is   by adding a foot to the bottom of the casing that 
way the baseboard will dead end into the casing   and the shoe molding will dead end into the foot 
to make the foot i've set the fence at a half inch   raised the blade and i'll make two passes 
to resaw the board to a half of an inch now i'll cut the board at seven inches   i'll measure down from the top a quarter of 
an inch set the angle of the saw to 45 degrees   and cut a chamfer on the top of the board to make the shoe molding i'll use a chamfer bit 
to put a slight chamfer on the edge of a 1×4 with a piece of tape on the table¬†
saw insert i've adjusted the fence   so the offcut is a half inch i've traced a line 
and each time i make a cut i'll readjust the fence   so the offcut is a half inch 
and the offcut is the molding after all the doors are trimmed you can add the 
foot here you see how the baseboard dead ends into   the casing and the last piece of molding after the 
floors are finished is the shoe molding and you   can see how it dead ends into the foot okay well 
i'm really happy with the way this turned out and   this is pretty much the last project in the whole 
fixing up the shop series which started right   around september 15th so it's hard to believe just 
a little bit more than three months and the whole   shop has had a major facelift from the new space 
in the back of the shop to fixing up the shed and   turning it into a finishing room the new lighting 
the new table saw and next will be shop furniture   so i'm really excited about that as far as this 
trim design if you wanted to dress it up a little   bit you could always add a little cove molding 
under the cap here and maybe a little nose and   cove to the baseboard it's really up to you but 
i think that this is a simple but classic design   on its own that would look great in any home hope 
you enjoyed this video and thanks for tuning in for the return i'll use the offcut way to go [ __ ] and today i'm going to trim 
it out using 1×4 poplar that you can get at¬†¬† any home store or lumber yard and i'll give¬†
you a few tips that make this a classic design   that would look great in any home or lumber yard the sheetrock is just a little bit proud of the 
jam and that's giving me a little bit of a gap   i've set the angle of the blade at seven degrees 
and i'm going to scoop out the back of the casing   and see if that'll give me a tighter fit foreign

As found on YouTube

Related Posts