How to DIY Industrial Pipe Console Table With Basic Tools Only

Welcome to this video about how to DIY Industrial Pipe Console Table for levelling up your home office Hey what's up guys this is Will from
Going Awesome Places and thank you for joining me on my little own adventure of
leveling up my home office workspace so so far we've talked about my shelves
my chair standing desk my monitor speakers wall art and a whole
bunch of other organization pieces but if you remember where i left off one
thing i haven't figured out yet is the gap that's between the ergonfis
standing desk and the wall so how do we get here well
here's a little recap i started this series by
building my very first walnut shelves and that's what you see behind me here
and that's what was needed to add some life into the room
but this was all before i decided to get a standing desk and so when the
ergonofis shift 2.0 came in I realized i had a problem with my hands
which was with the monitor the microphone boom arm and the DSLR webcam that there was no way that this would clear the shelves in standing mode which is what you see behind me here so what i had to do was basically pull the table away from the wall so that it could do
exactly this which was clear the shelves but this created a problem there was now a huge gap between the wall and the desk and so in this video i'm
going to be putting my woodworking skills to the test and adding some new skills by building my very first
console table well i'm back in the garage and today i'm going to show you
how to DIY your own plumbing pipe console table in a beautiful matte black finish for the legs and an awesome walnut pine finish on top with the wood
but before i begin make sure you watch all the other videos in my level up your
home office series.

It's going to be invaluable for
everything that we're going to be learning today
so why don't we first start off with all the materials that you're going to need
for this project and i laid them all out on this table
right now i'm going to start on this side
so you're going to need a finishing sander that's going to be doing all the
sanding a 120 and 220 grit,
gel stain in walnut color,
a pre-stain mask for all that uh dust that's gonna
be flying out in the air polyurethane in semi-gloss to finish up the stain and then everything over here is
actually brand new items that I had to get for this project
at Home Depot it's actually really easy to pick up everything is pretty much off
the shelves and it gives you that awesome industrial
look.
So first is the matte black spray paint that you're going to need
and over here all those galvanized iron pieces we're going to start off
with the long steel pipe here this is 24 inches it has a three quarter
inch thread which is the same across the board we have two
nipples you're going to find out about those
coupling, tee, these are the 90 degree elbows we're
gonna need for the legs and finally two flanges.
Oh I forgot
one last thing got a bucket of water here
and this is gonna go in for step one Well now that everything's dried and
cleaned up we're now ready to assemble the console legs
These are the main legs We have coupling here we have a two inch
nipple.

You'll notice that there's a lot of thread here
and the beauty of piping is that the thread actually allows for a lot of
flexibility because you can turn it to raise it or lower the height of the legs.
Next is the tee. Tee is going to go in the way that the
legs work is that you have the two elbows that go on either end.
And finally we have the flange which is the final piece that's the one that goes
up on top which connects to the wood.

And so that's really easy just tighten it on top and let's see if I can
actually get it to 29 inches so from bottom of leg to top. It's pretty close.
I think I can tighten it just a little.
We're going to do it on the other one.
We got our two legs but i think i have a problem… We have the console table would I have here measured the specs 69 inches
long five and a half inches wide if i place this
right on this is way too wide Okay you gotta factor in the wall the
molding on the bottom So this can't be right up against here i
gotta bring it out a little bit If i bring this up for a mounting it's
gonna maybe look something like this This isn't going to work.
I think I have an idea I'll be right back well i am back
I've literally just been to six different Home Depots spread across.
Two days buying the wrong parts exchanging them buying more wrong parts.
Anyways I think I got the setup that I need for this.

2 more
flanges and these are two inch nipples.
Don't ask me why they're called nipples… And i've returned a couple of those
elbows we're gonna do a completely different leg setup.
So I got the tee already on our long bar. This is one that iI had to
buy new. This is 48 inches it was very hard to find a lot of places were sold
out. So using that as a crossbar
I'm now putting in our original bars on these are for height.
The flanges are used for that connection with the wood.
These two nipples add that extra height I need.
And finally we got two flanges. Okay so I'm going to talk a little bit about the
height that i'm looking for so originally I talked about a height of
29 inches right so that's my current side tables that you see in
my office setup They're 29 inches high and so I thought
this whole time that I needed 29 inches for the the legs here but then I forgot
to factor in the thickness of the wood that was going
on top and so that measured in at three quarters of an inch
so instead of 29 inches I actually needed 28
and a quarter inch.
Okay that's pretty close.

The last thing you want to
think about is that if you're putting any sort of
padding at the bottom you can factor those heights as well
this is the wood that I have and i think this works really well
this step is done we're moving on to the next. This next step is all about spray painting the legs to the color that you're looking for now
you can keep it raw and a lot of people like that look but for this particular
project I'm looking for matte black so that it
matches the look of my home office I'm going to be giving it
a nice coat on both sides. I got my mask, the ventilation's up
and we're gonna get started. I've waited a full 20 minutes for it to
dry which is just long enough for you to be able to handle it which is
what I need to be able to flip this over Back to spray painting.

All right so the spray painting is all
done now. We're not going to do another coat.
I don't think it's really needed based on what I saw with the first coat.
At this point there's nothing else we need to do. We're not going to apply a
clear coat. We're going to keep it matte. We are going to let this dry for a full
24 hours where it's going to be fully fully dried
and we're ready to mount the wood on so… we're going to move this off to the side
and we're ready to work on the wood. The next few steps are all about taking the
wood from its raw form in pine to its stained walnut form now I
have an entire video dedicated to this in the level up your home office series
so make sure you watch that where I take you through this step by
step.

I'm gonna fast forward this on my own end and I'm gonna bring you up to speed to the final few steps
which will then be about bringing the finished form of wood with the legs
and into the home office. Well for this last step in the garage what we're going
to be doing now is assembling all the pieces that we've
created so far so this is the matte black painted
legs using those iron pipes and then finally we have the table top
which I've stained a nice walnut color so they're ready to go
all you need here is like the table I got a tape measure,
pencil, screwdrivers if we need them, a bunch of screws that I found around
the house.

These are just extra screws wood screws.
Tou want to make sure that the length is right because you don't want to puncture
the wood on the other side. So just long enough. The first thing you got to do of
course is lay it all out make sure that it is
properly measured and balanced. What you want to do now is draw some
circles to make sure that at least we have these
marked so one thing I forgot to mention is that
when you set this down you want to make sure that obviously
your tabletop is set the right way so whichever side
you want on the bottom which is what is facing up right now.
I've decided, okay, this side has a few more imperfections so I've decided
to use this on the bottom side.

I'm gonna do a small little starter hole
on each. Now it's time to screw things in. I totally screwed this up.
This should be at the bottom…This kind of works As you can tell wasn't expecting this to
be at the top but i mean there's not going to be a lot
of sway in this anyways because it's not a big table.
So this is going to be a nice addition to the level your home office
collection. To set it up in my home office I pulled
out my table and side table with ergonofis Shift 2.0 fully raised
I found the right angle to slot it in well…eventually.
The problem with my flooring is that it's not even so
what I had to do was get a few felt pads and basically put them on one side of
the flange so it angles the console towards the
wall.

It works but you'll notice that it's not the most
stable That said, once I put everything onto the
console and with the standing desk as a guard
against tipping the other way, I feel like this is fine for my use case.
Look more closely though… But there's a problem. The depth of the
console is just a little bit too shallow and the gap way too wide so I decided to
redo this piece of wood by buying a brand new plank
that's a lot wider and should fit the bill. Sliding the console table back in, I am
much happier with the result.

Now I can display more of my
collectibles that my wife would rather not have in the living room
and I now have a spot for my books and some greenery as well.
If there's one gripe, it's the ergonofis power bar installed on the left
rear of the table. When the table is lowered I can't really access the USB
ports and plugs. I have to raise it, plug it in, and then lower it back down. Not a big deal but a bit of a minor annoyance.
That gap is nearly gone with just enough space for my cables to squeeze through
my standing desk can be raised fully while clearing the shelves as well
the office is leveled up once again. Well that was way more complicated than I
thought it would be. Nipple jokes aside, a lot of mistakes
were made but luckily a lot of solutions were
found. If you're curious about all the
materials and things that I need to make this project happen,
cost, where to buy those things, just go to the description down below. I'm going
to have all those details.

Hopefully, this gave
you some inspiration in terms of solving your wall gap
problems but if that was a little bit too specific
at least they gave you some ideas in terms of how to build
a really basic console table from scratch.
As always, I appreciate all the views. If you haven't subscribed yet,
make sure you do so and i'll see you guys next time on Going Awesome Places!.

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