How to Build a Wooden Gate | Mitre 10 Easy As DIY

A wooden gate can
finish off a fence nicely, as well as
giving you a bit of added privacy around the house. Plus, it's great for
keeping the kids safe. I'm going to show
you how easy it is to build a nice steady
wooden gate yourself. For this gate, we'll need enough
timber for the gate frame. There's two sides, three rails,
and a diagonal support brace. There's timber for the
pilings, then three hinges, and a gate latch. Now, one of the first
things we need to work out is what side of the fence you're
going to hang your gate off. Now, I've decided I'm going
to hang my gate off this side here, and I'm going
to open it outwards.

So what we're going to see
as the knuckle of the hinge, which is this big
round barel-y part. It's going to be
sitting on the outside. So if you can see the
knuckles of your hinge, that means that it's
a right-hand hung gate on the right there. Now, if I was going to
open this gate outwards, and this hinge is going
to be on that side there, that would be a
left-hand hung hinge. So nice and simple. OK, so the next
thing we need to do is measure the distance
between our two posts. Now, we make sure that we
measure top and bottom just so if they're not
parallel, we're going to have to take
the smallest of our two measurements.

Now, at the top, I have 922. And down at the bottom
I've got 922 as well. OK, so our gap is
922 millimeters wide. Now, we are going
to have to take off a little bit of that measurement
just to allow for the guys to sit in there nicely
with jamming on the sides. So what I'm going to also do is
measure the width of our hinge with it closed like that. That's approximately
8 millimeters. Now, I'm not actually
going to chicken or chisel in to our post and
the side of our gate to have these hinges
sitting nice and flush. What I'm going to do
is have these hinges sitting on the top. The reason for that– if these guys were to move
a little bit later on, that just gives me a
little bit of scope down the line to check
those in and pull the gate over nice and
level if I need to later on. So I've got 8
millimeters of hinge. I'm going to take
that off our 922. Plus, I'm going to allow another
8 millimeters on that side.

So that's a total
of 16 millimeters I'm going to take off our 922. And that's the width that
we're go to make our gate. Righty-o, now that we've
got the width of our gate, the next thing we need to
do is measure the height that we're going to
make our gate frame. So what I've decided
to do is just to measure what we've already
got here on the existing fence. So to keep all the guys rails
exactly the same so when we stand back and look at it,
everything's nice and aligned. So if I my tape
down at the bottom there and to the overall,
I got 1526 and 697 to the underside of my rail. Now the top bottom of
that I'm going to be using is the 75 by 50 or
3 by 2, if you will. Now, it's tantalized,
and it's kiln dried. The great thing about
using kiln-dried timber, is it's not going
to twist or warp. Now, I've got a nice
little plan here that will take in all the
dimensions off our fence. So I've got all of my
dimensions worked out already.

I'm going to take
that over to the saw, and I'm going to put a
square cut on each end. Now, on each end of those square
cuts, I'm going to do a rebate. Now this is a rebate. This is going to make
our joint super strong. Now, measure and
mark all five pieces and put a nice square
cut on each end. Now, that I've cut
all my five pieces, I now need to put this
rebate on the end. To do that, it's pretty simple. First thing we have
to do is measure the width of our timber. My particular situation I
got 44 millimeters wide, so I'm going to mark 22.

And I'm just going to use
a pencil and my finger to create a finger gauge. That's going to give me
a straight line there. Let's just square that
all the way around, and I'm going to take
out this top piece here. So now that we know how
much we're taking out, We also need to know the width. So let's just put an off
cut of timber on the end. Mark that– at least make
it really clear to ourselves exactly which piece we're
going to be chopping out. Now to create a
rebate like this, I'm just going to
use my drop saw.

On the side of
the drop saw, I've got this nice little
rebate switch. I can flip that over. And I've got a screw here,
which allows the blade to be set at whatever height I like. Now, I've got my mark
set on my piece of timber that I want to be rebated. Now, I'm just going to
bring my drop saw down, and all I'm going to do
is just wind the screw so it's approximately half
a millimeter off our line. And now, we're just going to
lock our little wing nut in there just to make sure our
height adjustment screw doesn't move on us. Boom. Now just before we
rip into it, I'll put a piece of timber
across the back here just to bring the
saw so we're making sure that the saw travels
all the way through nice and clean on our
piece of timber.

OK, that's looking pretty good. If you find there's any little
jags hanging on the back there, you might just want
to clean that up with a nice sharp chisel. That's looking pretty good. And just test just to
make sure that it's all sitting nice and lovely. Excellent. Now, you just want to repeat the
process for all the other ends. Now, all my timber
is rebated out, and it's just about ready to go.

What I'm going to
do next is just do a dry fit, which purely
means assembling the whole thing without any glue. Now, I've just got it sitting
in a pair of sash clamps. That's just going to squeeze
the whole thing together. It's not imperative
that you do use those, but it is pretty handy. Now, that's all sliding
together quite nicely. Now, just before we glue it up,
let's measure our diagonals.

1777. And we just want to make
sure that at diagonals are sitting exactly the same. 1777. We still have a little
bit more adjustment before we put our screws in, but
let's just get it within couie now. Now, everything's
looking really good. The next step is mixing
up some two-part glue and applying that on air joints. We're using two-part glue
to reinforce the joints because it's a lot
stronger than other glues, and it's waterproof. OK, so what I'll do
now is just tighten that sash clamp up
just a little bit.

Make sure they're all hard. Now, let's just
pre-drill our ends. I'm going to come in
about 20 millimeters. And I'm just using a 40
millimeter stainless steel square drive screw. Righty-o, let's just
double check our diagonals before we screw the
whole thing off. 1777. 1773. 1774. 1774. Lovely. Now, we're only going to
need two screws on the end because effectively
the screws are just there until the glue goes off.

Lightly hammer
the joint together to ensure it sits flush. Next step is
installing our brace. Now, this is the
top of our gate. So on this side here, I'm going
to be installing our hinges. So what that means is I'm
going to put my diagonal brace from the bottom of the
gate up to the top, so that allows when all the
weight comes on the gate, all that weight's going to
transfer down onto and not secure post where
the hinges are.

Now, to do that, I've
marked a center-line on the end of our
brace, and I've marked the center-line
on the other end. I'm just going to use the brace
as a straight edge for now, and I'm going to put that right
in the corner and that corner down there. And I'm just going to transfer
that mark all the way along. That allows me to clearly see
where the center of our gate is. Now, if I lay this flat, put
our center mark of our brace on that line. Now, we just make sure that it's
on our center line down here. Great. So what we're going to do
now is mark the underside of our brace, and
we're going to cut that to that angle on either end.

Now, for our middle here, what
I'm going to show you how to do is rebate out the
center two pieces here just using our circular saw. So just kind of mark
with a nice sharp pencil exactly were they intersect. And let's just tell ourselves. I'm going to be chopping
out the bottom of this one and the top of that one just
to make it really clear for us ourselves and also need to mark
the underside of the brace top and bottom. OK, now it's time to cut our
rebate for our center brace.

Now, let's just sit our circular
saw to just shy of that depth. Lock that off. That's probably about
a half mil away. It's looking pretty good. Now just before you rip into
it, just take your time. You don't want to muck this up. Now, just use a
nice sharp chisel. Follow your pencil lines. And then snap all your fins out. Cool. Now it's looking pretty tidy. Now all we have to do is the
other rebate on the diagonal and then chop our ends.

So I apply a liberal
amount of glue as you did the
rest of the frame. And then once this goes on,
we will pre-drill the ends and screw it in place. Now, I might just
use a clamp here just to squeeze this
up nice and tight. Lovely biscuits. Righty-o, the last
thing we need to do is attach our screws through
the ends of our brace. Now, I've got these 100
mil long galvanized screws. I'm just going to
pre-drill a hole. Now, pre-drilling the
hole is just purely so the timber doesn't split. Fantastic. And now let's do exactly the
same down at the other end. Now, all I'm going to do is
just tidy up the excess glue and then just let
it dry overnight. The glue sets so time
for a little tickle up with the sander. Now, that's all looking
really nice and tidy. All my joints are
sitting nice and flat. Next thing I have do is give
it a quick lick of primer.

Cool. That's looking really good. Now, let's just head
back over to our fence and get all our measurements
for our pilings. The distance from the top of the
rail to the top of the piling is 92 millimeters, and the
get between each piling is approximately 10 millimeters. Now, I've already
pre-cut all our pilings. Now, this timber that I am using
is actually already preprimed. But because I've
already cut the ends, I've also put some
primer top and bottom. Now, let's take our 92
millimeter measurement, and we're just
going to make sure that that piling is sticking
above the top of our gate at 92 millimeters.

And I'm just going
to fix on one piling on either side of
the gate for now. Now, because I am going
to be painting this fence down the track, what
I've decided to do is just to drive those screws
a couple of millimeters under the surface of
the timber so I can bog straight over top of them. OK, so I've of cut the
rest of my pilings, and I've laid them down nice
hard up against each other.

So I'm just going to
measure the gap that's left, and I've got 94 millimeters. So I've got seven pilings here. That'll give me eight gaps. So if I take 94 and
I divide that by 8, that gives me about
11.75 millimeters. Now if you remember
down on our fence line, we were measuring round about
between 10 and 11 millimeters. So that's going to make
our gate and their fence match really nicely. So I'm going to
go back to my saw, and I'm going to cut a
whole lot of little peckers at about 11 millimeters to
slip in between our pilings. OK, all our peckers are in. They're all sitting
there nice and tight. OK, now I've put a level
just on the top of our gate, and I've pushed all our
pilings hard up to it. That's just to ensure
that we're going to get a nice straight
line across the top.

So the next thing is running
a straight line across there and just throwing our screws in. OK, now just repeat
the same process for the other two rails. Now, the type of hinge
that I've decided to use is this 4 inch broad butt hinge. This will allow me to
get past our piling and get direct fixing straight
into the frame of our gate. But if you didn't
want to use these, you could use this nice
little simple T-hinge, which just laps straight
over the top of the gate.

That kind of gives you a
little bit more of a country, sort of rustic look. I've decided to go with these
because it's a little bit more of a classy, nice,
tidy minimalistic look. All right, the position
I'm putting my hinge is going to be flush
with the top of our gate. And all I'm going to do is just
bent the hinge 90 degrees so that top part sits hanging
over there flush with the end. I'm just going to
drill those in. Now, there is a right and wrong
way to put these hinges on.

So you'll see that there's
five parts to this hinge. We've got three on one
side here on the leaf, and we've got two on
this side on that leaf. So the three side
of our hinge here– that'll go onto our post. And the two side of
this part of the leaf– that'll go onto our gate. So with our center
hinge, let's just line it up so that it's sitting
in the middle of our rail.

And once again, using
our stainless screws, fix that in place. Righty-o, we're just about
ready to screw our hinge on. Now, I've thrown a few
peckers underneath the front of my gate, and I've got a spade
here, which I can stand on. That'll give me my exact
height up and down. So I'm also just going to use
my ruler as a straight edge. And going off the
top of my gate, that's sitting nice and flush
with the top of our fence.

So we're just about ready
to screw our hinge on. Let's just make sure that
the leaf of the hinge is sitting flush with
the face of our fence. So what I'm going
to do first is just put one screw at the top of
the hinge and then one screw in the bottom of
the bottom hinge. So now, just put on all
the screws in the hinge. And we're just about
there ready on the gate. Righty-o, all our screws are in. Now what we can do is
take out our spade, and take out our peckers,
see how our gate's looking. And now we're just about ready
to put on our gate latch. Umph, now that's look
at absolutely superb. Next thing is throwing
on our gate latch. What I have selected
here is one that's got a little hand that's
accessible from both sides.

So I can shut the
guy here but also open it from the back side. So that'll just
slip over the top, and I've got the little
lever strike here. That'll set on top of the gate
and just close quite nicely like that. Easy As. Now you can just fill the holes
and then you're ready to paint. Done. You've got yourself a solid
gate that'll keep the kids in or the mother-in-law out. It won't take you long, and
it won't cost the youth..

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