How to Build a TV Lift Cabinet – Part 1 | Beginner-Friendly Woodworking Project with a Free plan

Believe it or not this is a very beginner-friendly 
project we're using dimensional lumber for   all of the face frame and the supports and then 
three-quarter inch plywood for the cabinet carcass   itself and MDF for the doors and drawer we're not 
even going to use a table saw we're going to use a   circular saw to break all of the sheets down and 
then we'll use a miter saw to cut all of these   pieces to length i've also got a free plan for 
this project you can get that at the link below i designed the dimensions for this cabinet to 
fit a 35 inch lift from tvliftcabinet.com who   is also the sponsor of this video and this lift 
can actually fit a much bigger TV than the one   i'm putting in it I'm just putting a 50 inch on 
this lift so if you want to put a bigger tv just   make sure that lid opening is wide enough for the 
tv to fit through i'm also using pocket screws to   join the wood together on this project i don't 
think i've really done any pocket hole joinery   on this channel yet but for a cabinet 
like this pocket hole joinery is great   especially for beginners so let me get started by 
breaking the three-quarter inch plywood down and   we can build the cabinet carcass by the way if you 
have no clue what a cabinet carcass is check out   my last video where i go over 25 woodworking terms 
that you need to know that link will be down below this particular jig has markings here that you can 
set the depth of this with this collar according   to the thickness of your work piece i've got 
three-quarter inch plywood that's actually 23 32nd   so i'll set this just shy of three quarter and you 
don't set the tip of the bit you set the shoulder   so i line that up just shy of three quarter and 
then tighten down that set screw and i'm ready to   drill the hole as far as the screws when you have 
three quarter inch thickness you're supposed to   use an inch and a quarter screw but since ours is 
just under three quarters of an inch we may have   to use an inch screw so we'll test with this inch 
and a quarter and make sure it doesn't pop through   or come close to popping through and if it doesn't 
we'll use that otherwise we'll use the hinge the cabinet carcass is basically put together 
now i just need to cut the supports for the top   and the bottom those will be out of solid wood 1 
by 2 for the top and a one by four for the bottom   real quick i want to talk about the location of 
these pocket screws now i put these on the outside   so that they're slanted in towards the middle 
of this bottom piece that we're connecting the   sides to if we were to put these holes on the 
inside then the screws are slanted toward the   edge of this base piece and that's a much 
less secure way to attach them now since   i'm putting baseboard on this cabinet all of 
these holes around the bottom in the back and   on the sides will be covered up now these holes 
on the back from the top to the bottom on the   sides will show but if you want this to be 
a 360 cabinet so to speak where the front   and the back are visible you can just put a piece 
of trim over that i am going to add glue just for   that extra security where it's practical so 
like on these sides or the shelf piece that's   going in the middle but really you could get 
away without gluing any of this cabinet part   now obviously you have to glue the top but 
the bottom you don't really have to glue it uh so i just got done test fitting my lift and it 
fits great make sure you do that before you go   any further after you build the actual carcass 
you'd hate to get to a point where you were   almost done and you went to put in the lift and 
it didn't fit now i can move on to the face frame   which is made up of one by twos and a one by six 
when i go to attach the pieces again we're using   pocket hole screws i'm going to use a clamp 
to clamp the pieces securely down to the bench   and then i can drive the screws 
and everything will stay straight   even though i've got a dimension here on my 
plan for each of these face frame pieces i'm   going to go over there and measure the finished 
carcass to get the actual measurement that i need i've got the cabinet on its back and the 
face frame is temporarily clamped to it   and the reason i'm doing that is so that i can 
set this lower cross piece flush with the shelf   now that's really hard to do by just 
measuring a distance and attaching this   and then hoping it lines up so this method 
will work a lot better i can put this up   flush with the shelf and then make marks 
of where this cross piece needs to be   and then take the face frame over and attach this 
cross piece and then that will allow me to measure   and cut the vertical door dividers and i've got 
the face frame flipped around so that i'll be able   to see my marks when i go to attach this cross 
piece once the face frame is all put together i'll   bring it back over here and use the same method 
to permanently attach it with glue and brad nails since the baseboard will cover all of this bottom 
portion here i decided to go ahead and drive some   inch and a quarter screws just to add some more 
stability here now that i've got this face frame   attached and i'm sitting back and looking 
at it i'm not really crazy about how these   two dividers are not supported in the back now i 
think they're stable enough that they could work¬†¬† but it's easy enough to add another 1×2 behind¬†
here then i'm going to go from this inside support   all the way up to the shelf and i'll just glue 
it right to the back of these dividers now i'm   also not crazy about how this is not supported 
up here even though there's two pieces here   and they're glued together this is actually 
sagging a little bit that way and i think   it's because i didn't get this inside support 
flush with the cabinet so it's sitting back   just a little bit so i'm just going to pocket 
screw a little support piece that goes from here   to the back of this piece and pushes it out to 
the right depth and we'll pocket screw that in so i went ahead and filled in all these holes with 
wood putty and even on the sides of the cabinet   this plywood had some scrapes and some gouges so 
i filled all of that in everything i can see now   i'm just going to sand the entire cabinet while 
i'm sanding i'm also going to make sure that i   get all of these surfaces nice and flush 
some of them have just a slight little lip   so as i'm going through i'll make sure that 
i take care of that another thing i'm going   to do is to roll over all of these sharp edges 
that'll give it a more professional look and feel   then up here where it intersects another 
piece i'll have to hand sand those edges the doors and the drawer are made from half inch 
mdf as a backing piece and then we glue the rails   and the styles to that backing piece and that will 
give us a nice shaker style look for the rails and   the styles if you can find quarter inch mdf in 
a large enough sheet then use that but if you're   like me in my area i could only find two foot 
by four foot sheets of quarter inch mdf so i'm   going to use this 3 16 fiber board that will make 
the doors in the drawer about a 16th of an inch   thinner than the baseboard and the trim that we're 
putting on the cabinet but i really don't think   it'll be noticeable before i start cutting all 
those pieces out i'm going to make some marks and   do some measurements just to make sure we've got 
the right dimensions for the doors and the drawer   depending on how you want to mount your 
doors and which side you want to put the   hinges for each door you may need to build up 
this outside portion now that one by two will   give you plenty of surface area to mount the 
hinge and if you're mounting on these inside   dividers those already have plenty of surface 
area because we added these backing pieces   so what i'll do is cut a 1 by 2 just like we 
did with this support it'll go from the bottom   of the shelf to the top of the support here and 
we'll just glue it and clamp it in until it dries now i can fit the other two doors and a 
trick i'm going to show you why we haven't   measured and cut this drawer yet once 
i've got all three of these mounted up   i'm going to measure across the actual 
doors and that will give me the length   of the base for this drawer after i've got that 
measurement and i cut the drawer out i'll bring   it over here and mount its hinges and then 
we'll take all of the doors and the drawer   down take the hinges off and we can glue and 
brad nail the rails and the styles to each one a quick tip anytime you use an mdf or 
a material similar to mdf we have to   put these on to test fit and take them off and 
put them on these holes will really loosen up   so what you can do before you install it for 
the last time is add a little bit of glue   here so you can use a toothpick i'm using 
a skewer that's just broken in half here   we'll get some glue and drop it in there if you're 
wondering why i don't just put a drop on top and   let it seep down when you do that you're trapping 
air in the hole and the glue doesn't actually seep   down so it just dries right there on the surface 
this will make sure we get it down in there tv lift cabinet is the sponsor of this video 
you can check them out at tvliftcabinet.com   not only do they offer several sizes of tv lifts 
but they also have the cabinets so if you're not   into building your own you can head over there 
and buy one directly from them if you are into   building your own i've got a free plan available 
at the link below in part two we're gonna build   the top and cut the lid out and then put some 
finish on it and then we're gonna paint the   cabinet get everything assembled and then install 
it inside the house once that video releases   you'll be able to click on it right here 
and go straight over there and watch it   but in the meantime click on one of these 
two videos and i will see you over there

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