Here is the third video in the new workbench series in which I will show how I built the accessories, with which it can be comfortably worked on and which make them very versatile at the same time. These are the bank constraints. I had thought of using a cap nut and washer with a countersunk hole to allow better turning and tilting, with which you can clamp workpieces very practically in all holes of the bench, whether in front or on the work surface. I've now also attached the vice and made some bench hooks that clamp the workpieces on the table top. Repeatable cuts can also be made on this bench. If you are interested, you can see how this works in the corresponding video on my channel.
I'll start with the bench clamps. I will cut all the parts for it from the beech wood board, that was left of the countertop. I cut them with the table saw, smooth one side with the jointer and bring them to the desired size with the thicknesser. Because the glued wood is glued together from several strips of wood, I will try to cut the parts out of one piece without joints. Here we see the finger joint connection in the board, it is definitely a very strong connection! I mark the positions of the holes and drill them with the drill press.
I'll use a steel bar however, a steel pipe with the same diameter and 3 mm wall thickness could also be used. Now I'm going to drill the holes for the threaded inserts. We could also use a drive nut for this. Now I mark the outline of the parts so I can cut them out later with the bandsaw and I sand all the sides with the disc sander. I put some oil on it and screw the threaded insert into its hole. Since it is a little longer than necessary, I drag it down to fit.
I fasten and grind the steel pipe, and make some grooves with the file to make the glue work better. I'll be using polyurethane glue, but epoxy would work too. Once the glue is dry I remove any residue and apply some linseed oil to the wood. I'll cut the printheads out of another piece of beech wood. First I drill holes for the washers and the cap nut, then I cut them out with the band saw and sand them on the disc sander. I countersink the central hole of one of the washers and round off the cap nut so that it fits loosely in the hole. I'm going to cut the printhead covers from another piece of beech wood. and now I can assemble the bench clamps. First I put screws into the buttons I had already built and secure them with a nut and washer. I could also use a long handle, like on normal screw clamps, but I prefer buttons because they take up less space. I apply wood glue to glue the printhead cover, put the washers in and add some grease to make the cap nut turn more easily.
I also put some polyurethane glue between the cap nut and screw, tighten the screw firmly, pressing the head and cover together. Now I'm going to assemble the vise. First I screw the beech cheek to the bench. I mark the positions of the holes for the vice and drill them with the drill press. I also drill some holes at the bottom of the part to screw it under the table top. I will be using hex head bolts. I will also be adding three screws to the front of the part. I changed the design of the vice a little compared to the one in the plans, but both versions are equally good.
Maybe I'll design my own vise later. Cut the parts of the front jaw from the rest of the beech wood on the tabletop. I'm going to glue two pieces together to make them thicker. As soon as the glue is dry, I overwork the surfaces with the thicknesser. I once again mark the position of the vice guides and drill the holes with the drill press. By tilting the fence stop, I chamfer all of the outer edges. I check that everything is okay and mark the positions of the holes for the bench hooks. Now I cut two rubber sheets and glue them to the two jaws with contact glue, so that the pieces of wood are protected when they are clamped in a vice. I apply some linseed oil and screw the front jaw to the vise after making sure it is level with the tabletop. Now I am making the bench dogs with this piece of steel tubing. I also cut a few pieces of beech wood and their edges rounded to insert them into the hole in the steel pipe.
I cut a recess in the upper part of the bench hook and smooth all of its surfaces on the belt sander. I glue a piece of wood to it so the bench dogs don't fall through the holes and the workpieces are protected when they are clamped on the bench. Finally, I will mount this vice that was sent to me by the Piher company, so that I can work with metals without damaging the front vice with the wooden jaws. I'm going to build a multiplexing fixture so I can quickly clamp it on the workbench. That's all for today. In a few days I'll be posting a new video showing the workbench drawers and doors being built.
I will try to build all the parts with this workbench's special cutting device..