Easy to make workshop STORAGE from scrap wood!

hi everyone really excited to see you today i've 
got a really good video coming up on building   a storage solution to try and help organize 
my insanely untidy workshop let's get going you see the problem i have too many drill bits 
don't you love saturdays we have a problem to   solve we need to put some storage in place 
for this mess here the existing storage i've   got for drill bits is too small as you can see 
and it doesn't really cater for any different   types of drill bits so what i end up doing is just 
piling everything on here because i'm normally in   too much of a hurry the other problem with this 
is that it's too far away from the drill press   so we're going to make something to put 
everything in and keep everything nice and tidy   we're going to build a storage solution that goes 
here in it's going to be fairly straightforward to   do hopefully it's not going to take a massive 
amount of wood because i don't have that much   space for it anyway and how many drill bits do 
you need right to help make the storage unit more   organized and more flexible we're going to do 
some flexible solutions for inside of the cabinet   so stay with the video and you shall 
see all the magic at the end hopefully   unless i really mess it up in which 
case you might never see this video   because this is going to need to 
move so i'm going to take this off we're going to stick it down here somewhere as 
you can see the nuts and bolts box that i've got   actually is on a french cleat bracket now 
if you don't know what these are they're   amazing and this will change your whole life not 
probably quite that much but you know a little bit   all they are is a 45 degree angle piece 
if you can see that you basically have   two opposing 45 degree cuts gravity 
pulls them down and you get a nice tight   join between the two without actually having to 
screw anything together which is very useful for a   workshop because then it means you can move stuff 
around exactly like we're needing to do right now where do i put it i have no idea that'll do for 
now right so this basically is our available space   which isn't too bad actually i didn't want 
to go too big i've got reasonably limited   timber i really don't want to have to go and 
buy some more because that involves going to   a very large orange big box store 
which is just carnage on a saturday   so the first thing we need to do is decide how 
big we're going to actually need it now i'm not   going to do that by measuring this space what 
i'm going to do is i'm going to organize the   drill bits on the on the bench to see if i can get 
a rough idea of size and shape don't worry i'm not   going to subject you to that i'll do a very fast 
time lapse and hopefully that won't be too painful so i need to just organize 
these roughly i think into   what sort of shape i might need them 
to be in when i got them in a cabinet so now i think i'm going to do i've marked out with 
tape roughly where i think the edges might go   it just helps visualize exactly what you're 
trying to achieve so these would be the doors   because they're going to go fold in like that 
and then this will be the main part of the back   now i should have enough wood doing looking at 
that over there if you don't have it all in the   right place you can never find anything and 
it makes jobs that you're doing twice as hard   you spend more time looking for your tools 
and you end up doing the thing that you came   out to do in the first place which is quite 
a lot of my life forstner bits are kind of   annoying because they take up so much space 
and they've also got different size shank   pieces on the bottom which is kind of annoying 
as well you may be wondering what that is   you can see that that is a special drill bit to 
do pocket holes it goes through a jig and then oh   that's a good idea we can put the jig in there as 
well all drilling paraphernalia in the same place   you have a piece of wood like that and this goes 
in here and drills the bottom and this piece is to   pre-drill the actual hole the screw is supposed 
to go into and this bit drills the pocket hole and   this is just a stop on the shank so you can then 
do a variable depth because you may only have a   thin piece of wood a bit of time spent planning 
and that can save a whole load of time later i   wonder whether that should go there because these 
are kind of like special things what we're going   to do though is we're going to make some rails to 
put all these things in similar to this one as you   can see it's got a french cleat on the back this 
is a bit this is far too big but the idea with   this is that we'll be able to move these pieces 
around after we put them in so we can rearrange   and everything else but we've got to make sure 
that we get the size of the cabinet right first   otherwise we'll be in trouble so i think 
this can go a little bit narrower like that these the sizes of these are obviously going 
to end up being half the size of this so what   have we got so middle to middle about 30 so that's 
going to be about 15.

That's pretty close already if you don't have any blue tape get some blue 
tape it's just amazing stuff all right so we're   going to get some rough measurements and then 
we're going to start marking out some timber   what i'm thinking is something along these 
lines here i think we want something like what we're going to do is we're 
going to build this as a box   so like a top view there and then we're going to 
use a magic trick build a completely completely   sealed box and then we're going to cut 
the front off which should give us the   doors which we're then going to cut again like 
that it's a much easier way of making a unit   that you need doors on now this is pretty cheap 
old stuff it's not bad this side is the b side   and that side is the a side what we're 
going to do is we're going to mark it out first now i'm going to cut this out on the 
table saw so i don't really need these lines   but i just want to illustrate how we can lay out 
on the plywood do this first because otherwise   you end up cutting these pieces out and then not 
having enough wood to finish the project which is   really irritating because then it means you have 
to go into the human land which is being queue   or wherever you happen to get your cheap knock 
off plywood that's roughly where it is remember   we're not going to actually use these lines 
as a guide when we're cutting this out we're   just trying to figure out where the pieces are 
going to go these table saws are pretty good   but you've got to calibrate 
all the measurements everywhere   this the straightness of this everything so we're 
going to go two to two which i reckon is there probably need some blade   i've also got this which is a zero clearance 
throat plate which you'll see or hear about   various different videos all that is is to replace 
this one which is the one that came with the saw   which has got a really big gap by having no gap 
between the edge of the throat plate and the   business bits of the blade it means that when the 
blade spins this way and it's cutting through the   fibers there's something on this side to stop them 
being pulled down the middle which means they're   much less likely to chip out not impossible 
but less likely i reckon that's about right okay now the whole world gets easier because 
we've cut down these huge pieces i'm hoping that i can use my cross cut sled to hold 
this oh look it's almost like i planned it amazing now a cross-cut sled is probably one of 
the most useful things you can build for your   table saw i went over a little bit in the last 
video i did i think but if you can keep your   hands away from the blade and make sure that 
you're pushing a absolute a perfectly aligned   right angle to get things 
square things are a lot easier now the next thing is that i need now a   piece that's exactly the same as 
this and there's a trick for this so we need we need two pieces like this now 
you've got two choices you can either measure it   or you can do this put it against the blade get a small piece of wood like this one 
and put it up against this side and a clamp   and clamp it down then you know that 
when you put this up against that stop   it's going to be identical in size we should have two pieces exactly the same width so now we need to do the same on this 
piece now this isn't going to be quite   so easy because this isn't going to 
be wide enough when i make a new one   of these i'm going to make it much wider on 
the back probably in a funny v shape maybe there we go so let's talk joinery for 
a minute a very exciting subject that   we all love there's lots of ways of joining 
two bits of wood together nails screws glue suction maybe not suction anyway we need something 
reasonably strong for this because it's a cabinet   it's going to have doors that are opening with 
all sorts of stresses on the corners and things we   need to be able to basically attach this to this 
okay what we're going to do is do just normal dado   joinery or rabbit joinery depending on where you 
live in the world now in the uk we can't cut dados   with a dado stack because we're not allowed them 
in the uk because we're not clever enough and   probably not safe enough either so we have to do 
these in different ways now there's a number of   different ways of doing this you can do this with 
a table saw or you can do this with a router table   or a router now i've got both but i realize 
that you may not so i'm going to show you   both ways so what we're aiming to achieve 
is something along this these lines here   we've got a recess in this piece of wood which 
means this piece of wood can fit in it it's   very simple that's all there is to it really 
the reason that this is strong is because you   end up being able to stick long grain from 
this piece onto long grain from this piece   and when you stick long grain together it's much 
much stronger than sticking to end grain using   some straws i can show you very easily why some 
joints are going to be stronger than other joints   so here we have some straws 
ignore the bendy bits on the end   these are the fibers of the wood they go in the 
direction that the tree grew or the branch grew   and most of the time these fibers run in a 
reasonably straight line going up and down   now the strength of the tree relies on strength 
in compression because they're really heavy i   don't know if you've ever tried to pick one 
up but they are so if you push down on here   that actually hurts quite a lot if you 
push down on here they're really strong   because they're all taking a part in 
supporting the pressure going onto the top   if you try and pick them apart 
they're really really easy to bend   if you can glue them together so you have two 
pieces of wood if you can glue them together   and combine them then they will strengthen each 
other in the bundle the other thing that you   have is surface area if you're trying to stick 
two pieces of wood together like this you're   not going to get a very strong bond because you 
haven't got much surface area to stick things to   if you can stick them together like this 
then you have all these the surface area here   down this side as you can see there so you 
end up extending the fibers it makes a much   much stronger joint so when you do a joint like 
this you're combining the fibers going this way   and you do get an end grain bond as well 
this is a bit of plywood so it's not   such a great example because you've got grain 
running in both directions on the plywood   grain runs this way grain runs that way which is 
why it's useful to use because it's very stable   so yeah so wherever possible we really want to 
be able to stick fibers together going this way   instead of just doing them on the end otherwise 
they're not going to work so for the purposes of   this build we're going to make a rabbet down 
these sides here something along those lines   like that so how deep does it need to be into 
the receiving piece of wood the receiving piece   of wood in this case is going to be this bit 
this is going to be the top or the bottom   and we need to know how deep to do it i reckon 
probably half is this is good enough in this case   so what we can do is using the bottom of 
the vernier if you haven't got one of these   you can use a tape measure use 
the bottom of the of the calipers   set it roughly it doesn't matter so long as 
they're all the same that's the key thing here   okay and then we need to go and set up the 
table saw we need to set up two settings on here   this is a lot easier if you've got a cross cut 
sled if you don't have a cross cut sled then you   can try to use the slider that probably came 
with your table saw you just have to attach a   stop block which is what we're going to do on here 
onto here instead and it should give you the same   um on this side probably it will give you the same 
result but it's a lot easier with one of these   so that's what i'm going to use because i 
have one so the first thing we need to do   is to set the depth of the blade this 
is an easy task make sure your blade   make sure your table saw is switched off they're 
really hard to get hold of if they're running   it's nightmare make sure that the 
top tooth is pointing upwards now   that sounds a strange thing to say but 
this is going to be our reference point   then what you want to do is run the sword blade 
down and then bring it up so it just touches the bottom of the gauge and that should be about right just while we're measuring depth there's a 
lot of different gauges available for depth   here's another couple of two different types 
i really like this one they're really really   quick to use they're very good for using them 
on or setting the depth on the um round table   and i might actually do that in a minute show 
you how this one works it's quite simple you set the depth like that and then you're able to do 
the same thing by sticking it over the top and   then rising it up down so you can see where the 
blade touches the bottom of the gauge okay so we   set the depth now we need to set the width now we 
we can do this by literally putting the piece of   wood against the blade i have chosen the tiniest 
piece of wood to stop block with but there we go so now as your marks these are only rough so 
you get an idea i always find it's easier to   draw the marks on the pieces of wood so 
you get the rabbits in the right place   you don't want rabbits in the wrong 
place it's terrible for your vegetables   now you're not going to cut any further 
this way than the depth of the piece of   wood you want to attach it to and you have 
your depth set like that you can see you   don't have to worry about going too deep and 
then it's just a case of cutting it all out so there you can see slightly rough they don't 
cut down one side now we probably clean this   up with a chisel and get rid of any ridges that we 
might have left in it but you kind of see the idea   setting up the router table is very similar 
you have two measurements to set one going   backwards and forwards here to set the depth 
or set the width of the cut and then you have   the depth of the cut set as well 
so let's set the depth of the cut   so you can see we've got the other depth 
gauge this time and i've transferred the   measurement from the calipers to this so that's 
the depth set now we need the width setting   setting the depth of these 
is a little more difficult   because zero obviously is the center of 
the bit which means we've already got   in this case seven and a half millimeters sticking 
out the side because it's a 15 millimeter bit so   we want to cut out 12 millimeters so that's 
another four and a half millimeters to go so set this to four and a half on that side make sure it's the same on that side   check it because if you're anything like 
me you might not have had enough coffee   yet for it to work properly that looks 
right to me and now we can make the cut there we go perfecto it's a lot quicker using 
a router table as you can see and it's a lot   cleaner as well but not everybody has one 
so you have to make do with what you've got   we need to just clean up this edge it's just a 
little ridge here get a nice sharp chisel remember eighty percent of woodworking is sharpening and then i should be able to 
just scrape that down a bit for a better finish and there we go there's a couple little 
rough edges on the fibers take these off always clean up the work as 
you go it just makes life much more pleasant plywood can be spiky horrible 
ratty old stuff but if you smooth it down everything just becomes much nicer to handle   and we're supposed to be doing 
this because we enjoy it right   there we go right i'm going to go ahead and 
do all the other bits so you don't have to   watch because i think you get the idea and 
then we will start looking at gluing it up oh my god the camera ran out of battery i had 
no idea so i've done part of the blue up already   but i haven't finished it which is a good thing 
so i can still show you what we need to be doing   so i've still got this end and the top to 
do i'm going to put this end on first okay when you're gluing up no glue is too 
much really well you don't want to   cover yourself in it obviously but you do 
want to you do want to make sure you've got   enough you don't want wonky loose joints 
we're going to glue this up right now this glue pot is getting old the knot you can 
get new nozzles i think i'm just trying to see   if i can find one because that's had it always 
paint the glue around do with your finger if   you lit if you want better scrap a bit of wood 
and there's all sorts of different ways of doing   this but going to have way too much glue but 
we're going to need it in there so let's put   it in there as well i probably should have done 
just three sides but there you go never mind so this fits pretty snugly 
actually move this to the bottom the other way up make sure it's square on 
the corners now you can either clamp these   but i've got one of these they're not 
that much money it's a nail gun it takes   or are they 25 millimeter brad nails it takes 
less than that but i find that this is pretty   much the best way to go ignore the ratty edges at 
the moment we haven't done any cleanup on this yet   you'll be amazed on what a bit of creative sanding 
can do and then secure the ends together first   always keep your hands well 
out the way of these things   these nails are so thin they can 
literally fly in any direction they like   and it's quite often not the one that 
you want and if your hands in the way   they want your blood basically so when you do 
it take your hand out the way before you hit   the button see that one blew through because i 
went too far over to the edge let's do that again better once you've done the 
edges stitch it together and just wipe down any excess it doesn't matter 
really you can scrape this off afterwards it'll   sand off we're going to sand the whole thing 
anyway so there we go so yeah you can see here   i had a blowout so we want to get rid 
of that all the way around the top edge now this is going to be front so we want the nice 
side frontwards this in it's a bit tight this time   i'm not quite square but 
this will square it up a bit stick it down there we go we have successfully 
made a small coffin for   a dead thing now quite a lot of the time when 
you're doing this sort of thing particularly   for me because i'm not as good as a lot of people 
totally admit this you end up with gaps and things   like that around there's a reasonably easy way 
to fix all this so this is going to be our front   and i thought i'd do this before we cut it in 
half because i think it'll make it a bit easier   there's gaps all over the place so what 
we really need is some nice wood filler   the problem is is that wood filler you're 
probably going to get the color match and   i mean this doesn't really matter because 
it's a piece of shop furniture but let's just   do it anyway because making shop furniture is 
where you hone your skills for anything else   you might want to make that's actually 
supposed to be of any kind of quality and sometimes these things are better so 
i've got some sawdust fresh off the table saw   because the dust collection on the 
table saw is rubbish and you can make wood filler as long as you have sawdust and glue   and this is just as easy as this 
really squishy out some glue and get some of the sawdust fine 
sawdust is probably best dump it on and just make a paste a bit 
too much sawdust than that you want it to be reasonably loose and then just find the gaps you want to fill and scorch it in them and it's going to look a real mess for a while you can also do this if you get big voids in 
the plywood which we generally do get in the uk   because it's incredibly hard for us to find decent 
plywood in the uk unless we're prepared to spend   well anything up to about a hundred pounds a sheet 
i've seen a sheet being a four by eight sheet i might just do this with my fingers what am 
i doing like that here we go that's better   the best tools that we were ever given depending 
on your point of view see there's a void in there   we can get rid of that now you don't have 
to let this dry before you start sanding   fortunately so now for the magic i've got 
an orbital sander here you can probably   use any kind of sander but this is the one 
i use now orbital sanders have these discs   and they have the holes around there now the holes 
are normally going to suck the dust up into this   bag and keep everything a bit cleaner now if 
you're doing this kind of thing while you're   trying to fill up voids with glue in them a tip 
is to put the disc offset from the holes now this   obviously makes more dust you have to compensate 
for that hence the mask there the respirator   but it means that instead of sucking the dust 
into the bag it'll push the dust into the cracks   into the holes so if you've got glue there you 
basically are making paste as you go now it does   wreck your disk quite quickly this is a bit of an 
old one anyway but it'll do the job as you'll see so now we've done that bit we need to decide   how big things are going to be i 
think that's going to be the front so initially i said we were going 
to have a straight and a half slice   but i think i'm going to change that and 
i'm going to go for 70 millimeters right to the table saw we need to set the fence at 70 ml okay with a little bit of wood in there to stop 
the thing collapsing across the kerf cut   we'll see whether that works 
or not let's do the back there you go let's see what happens that's 
why you tape the thing up when you cut it there you have quite a glowy box cabinet and 
door which we need to cut down the middle yet   so we need to find the middle of this two ways 
of doing this tape measure that is 29 centimeters   so 14.5 take away one and a half is 14.35 14.35 
or the other way of doing it is to get a pair of   dividers compasses whatever you want to call 
them guess where the middle is turn them around   not quite right slightly too small 
yeah perfect now you can use these put the point on the middle of the blade   and there you go 14.35 my table 
saw must be reasonably accurate now we need a bit of depth on the blade incidentally you may be wondering why this is 
in use a lot of people buy these very expensive   pushes this is a a sanding block which i bought 
for b and q for i think 1 pound 50 and it's got   a foam bottom which means it grips everything 
brilliantly well and i've got two i don't know   where the other one is but it's a very very useful 
alternative if you need a wide block to push with now we have the two halves of our doors and the cabinet it's starting to come together 
and look how amazingly well they fit because   they were the same thing and that's the trick 
all we need now is to clean up the insides   hinges and then make the rails that we're 
going to have on here to hold things in one of the things i'm not going to do on 
this channel is to pretend that i never   make any mistakes i see so many videos 
where you see what looks like an absolute   perfect build but let me tell you it never 
happens so i'm all up for just showing you   that we all make mistakes and actually the 
tricks in covering up the mistakes really   the business end of most of these things doesn't 
matter what it doesn't matter what you're doing you're always going to make mistakes so for hinges i thought i'd use these things 
they're big long long ones and i've cut them down   to the right length so hopefully 
they'll fit nicely on there i'm going to put these back together i'll 
put a little bit of spacer in here because   obviously we cut a bit of wood out just so i 
can get it straight put a spacer in the top to make life a bit easier so there we go we have a cupboard with an 
opening doors with some offset opening doors   i've explained french cleats before but if 
you can't remember they're just 245 degree   pieces of wood that fit together like that 
and one grabs hold on the other and off you go so we need to cut some french cleats now the 
depth of the piece of wood that you use will   determine obviously how much surface area there 
is in here to be able to grab these are not going   to hold masses of weight but a whole rack of drill 
bits is probably quite heavy especially if we did   one all the way across the back so i'm going to 
use some 18 millimeter plywood of the same type   to make the cleats and i'll show you how to 
do it we need to set the angle of the blade now the important thing when 
you're cutting a french cleat   is to remember that you've still got 
to have a piece left over to screw into   you need to remember to leave enough gap on the 
other side i normally leave about 30 millimeters over this side and then   i'll back the blade back down again because 
we know it's set at the right angle now to keep all my fingers intact and then 
it's just a case of making the cut then we have two halves now i'm probably going to make cut a 
few of these out so that i can just line the back we need to figure out where we're 
going to put all these cleats   now i want these level it would be 
really annoying to get all this trouble   and then have them not level that's going to be a 
pain to do that bottom one let's do this one first so glue glue the back these brushes i got off of amazon i think they 
were like 5 quid for 48 of them they're called   acid brushes i'm not really sure why maybe if you 
know let me know in the comments i have no idea   now don't do what i did the first time i did 
this which was glue the back onto there on   glue the bottom cleat on and then put the thing 
on it that i was trying to put on it like that and then the glue which squeezed 
out glued this piece to the cleat   you live and learned don't you so we're going 
to put this in and we're going to just tuck it   on let me square it because i moved 
it with nailer the jack nailer any people in the uk are going to understand 
that joke and even then maybe not everybody and we can use the square as a guide 
and distance look that's nice and   ocd isn't it it's quite therapeutic doing the 
glue if i'm trying to get my kids off of fortnite   or whatever else it is that they're playing 
at the time my little girl who's coming up 8   loves to help glue it's a good thing to do with 
your kids try and get them out into the workshop   it can make life challenging if you get them 
out of the workshop but it doesn't have help   give a good impression to them and get them 
to realize that actually making stuff is not   that hard making stuff that looks beautiful 
is hard i'm not particularly good at that   but i can get by and getting by is 
all we really have to do at the moment all right now on to the doors we're getting here nearly at the end and 
i'm really pleased that you stuck with me   because these things take a long time to do 
it takes a while to do something properly and   i'd like to know whether you like seeing 
the bits where we work out the problem   or whether they're just not something that 
you want to see because i need to know now i'm going to go ahead and do all 
the rest right there we go i know some   of them don't match but i will paint this at 
some point right now we have one more to do   which has got to go on the back because we're 
going to have to attach it so so i did cut   one extra on the back make sure you get the 
right way up the amount of times i've done it   like this or like that or like that it's 
just incredible so do the right way out look at that perfect i'll square it up in a minute don't skimp on 
the glue not on this bit it's going to hold   all the weight if you're doing something like a 
wall-mounted cupboard that is that is a nice thing   a good tip is to make these so they're 
obviously inset from the side so then   you can hide the cleat with a strip going down 
the side which would look a lot nicer than this there we go now the other thing you need to do is 
if this hangs on the wall it's going to be sitting   out slightly so you need a piece on the bottom 
that's going to bridge the gap at the bottom if you've got one of those silicone 
spatulas that you get in the kitchen   they're amazing for glue spreading because you 
can put the glue on you don't even need to clean   the spatula and then because i made a silicon 
they bend you can then just wait for it to dry   and then peel it off which is enormously 
satisfying again i'm not quite sure why so but you might as well do it properly   everything you do everything you do is practice 
for the time that you do have to do it properly happy days there we go you see i was impatient 
i wanted to try it now so i put some tape up   inside to cleat just to make sure that 
i don't stick it to the wall so let's go there we are i'm quite pleased i went and cut 
these up these are the original holders for my   forstner bits i cut them off off camera 
because i thought that would be quite boring   to watch you might want to put more 
layers in here but this is the cool   thing about this is that you can rearrange 
these things to do anything you like   and however best things fit now these might 
not be the things i use for the final go but you know they work pretty well now i 
thought about going through making these but   to be honest i think the video is probably long 
enough already and the process is exactly the same   as what we've just done you can see look so you've 
got a recessed rabbit in there if you remember   what we did at the beginning um not much creative 
sanding needed on these but you know if you need   to you need to french cleat halves drill the poles 
however you want to drill them and then fill it up   there you go i got a lot more sorting out to 
do i need to make a lot more of these inserts   the thing to remember is that if i decide i 
don't want this to be a drill bit cabinet anymore   i can make it anything i like you can make it 
something for your kids craft supplies you can   make it for anything you want these things are 
just holders to put in whatever you want you   can make any any holder you like to hold anything 
you like that's about it for this time thank you   ever so much for watching please leave a comment 
as to what you thought and if you make one let   me know how it went did you get the same sorts of 
sticky problems that i did which bits were harder   than others every build is different it'll go 
really well one time and it'll go really horribly   another time sometimes you may have to just 
throw it away and start again but the thing is   the only failure is giving up that's it keep going 
carry on make something in your workshop this is   good for the soul please like subscribe hit the 
bell there's going to be a lot more of this coming   some more storage ideas hopefully and some more 
workshop chat so that's all for now thank you bye you

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