Easy DIY Farmhouse End Table With A Drawer For Storage

– Today we're gonna build this awesome, farmhouse style end table. It features a hidden drawer. Oh, you didn't know
that was there, did you? Got a drawer in it, top, the shelf, got this X brace feature. It's awesome, it's easy. We made it out all 1*6s, except the drawer, I cheated and used plywood, but you can use a 1*6, won't matter. You rip everything down to size. Plans available, link in the description
below, for this build How are you doing? I'm Matt with 731woodworks.com Today we're building this end table. This is a very simple project.

It's very easy. Pocket Hole Construction, is very approachable for beginners. It's not as hard as you think it is. You can do it. This is built out all 1*6s like I said, except for that drawer, you can use 1*6s and
rip those down to size. All this stuff was ripped down to size. 1*6, full 1*6 up here at the top, but the rest of everything
else was ripped, into a certain size pieces. Hey, if you're new here,
please consider subscribing. If you do subscribe, click that bell icon right beside it. Click all so you get notified, of all the new content we've got coming.

Hit that thumbs up for me,
share it on social media. Let's get to build it. Just a reminder, all the tools and supplies
used in this build, link in the description below, so you can go check
those out for yourself. If you've been working
for commission very long, you know that people send
you a picture and say, "Hey, can you build this?" That's what's going on. Had this picture sent. We built the coffee
table in the last video. Remember that? If you haven't seen that, go check that out, it's
a pretty cool build. Now, we're gonna build that end table, except we're gonna put a drawer in it.

So it's gonna be a little different. Same style as a coffee table,
'cause we want it to match, but it will have a drawer in it. We're fixing to start right now. So we know what customer wants, is an end table 24 inches tall. And so that's the first
thing we're gonna do, is cut those legs 24 inches. And we know that we're gonna
rip those 2 1/2 inches wide, to match the coffee
table we built last time. You're not building a coffee table, you're just building an end table. Cut them however you want. 2 1/2 inches looks pretty good.
The first thing I wanna do, is cut my legs 23 1/4 inch, 'cause the top is 3/4 inches thick. So that's gonna give us, the 24 inch height we're looking for. 20 3/4 on the legs, I'm
gonna cut two 1*6, 20 3/4, and then rip them 2 1/2
inch strips out of each.

Two pieces makes four legs. So to ensure that all
four legs are the same, I wanna cut one piece, and
I'll take it and lay it on top, and flush it up on the left, make sure the blade barely
touches the top piece, and then cut both of them. That way you'll have
two, exactly the same. If you haven't seen the unboxing, of this Delta Cruzer, go check that out. (electric saw hums) Double check, make sure the right length. So I like to flush. I don't have stop blocks
or anything like that. So I like to make sure
this is perfectly flush. I'll move the board over past the blade, and then I'll move it back, until the top board touches the blade. When it touches the blade,
and this is still flush, you can move this out of
the way, and make your cut. That ensures you get two equal pieces. (electric saw hums) You've been following
this channel very long, you know what I'm fixing to do. I'm fixing to take this level, put it on the fence, and join the edge of this board, using a table saw and a straight edge.

What that does, is it gives me a good
straight edge over here, because it's referencing
this straight edge. If you would just run
that up against the fence, and this board is warped,
twisted, whatever, it's gonna reference this other side, you're now gonna have an equal, nice straight side over here. Once we get this straight side, we'll flip it over, move the fence into 2 1/2 inches, and then re-up to 2 1/2 inch
pieces out of each board. (upbeat instrumental music) That gives us a nice
square leg to work with. So I'm gonna make this 18 inches deep, 14 inches wide, with a drawer. Since we're putting a drawer in there, we know that we're gonna
need a flat side to attach, or drawer a slides too at the top. So the top, the tabletop
is gonna be 14 inches. So this is gonna set in, we're gonna get 1/2 inch, overhang on the top on each side, 1/2 inch overhang on each side. So I'm gonna set this up at 13 1/2, and 1/2 inch on the left,
13 1/2 on the right.

Then we can get our measurement there. That's gonna be 11 1/2 inch. 11 1/2 inch we're gonna
cut two pieces, 11 1/2. Same thing on the side, we know we wanted 18 inches deep, so we'll set this at 17 1/2 and 1/2 inch. That's 12. So 12 inch piece on the side. Now you Pocket Hole haters
out there turn your head. But this is the side pieces, they're are gonna go into
the top, just like that. And the reason we're
going with a wider board, is because of the drawer. When it comes to the top, you don't want, you won't be able, you'll see what I mean. So I'm just gonna drill two pocket holes, in each one, on each end. Figure out what side
you want on the outside, drill the opposite side. (upbeat instrumental music) This is The Kreg K 5 Pocket Hole Jig.

I highly recommend this one, about $130. I'll put a link in the description below, if you're interested. (upbeat instrumental music) And it comes with everything you need, a driver bit, a drill bit, a depth guide, the whole nine yards. (upbeat instrumental music) To assemble the sides, it's pretty simple. You're just gonna pick which
side you want facing out, which side you want facing in. We're gonna glue and
pocket and screw these.

Something that you wanna make sure, is that this top is flush. That's what the main thing is here. This is a Kreg Face Clamp. These things help keep
both boards at the same, keep them flush and it holds
it in place while you drill. (machine drilling) I like to move the face clamp around, so that it's in this overboard. That screw's gonna go in, that keeps everything
from twisting on you. (machine drilling) These are inch and a
quarter pocket, old screws, that's what size you need
for 3/4 inch material. (machine drilling) That's one side, I'm gonna put through the
other side, exactly the same. So, I've got both legs
made for both sides. Now I'm gonna put together,
put the back on it. And again, this is this
just glue and pocket hole. We'll go ahead and put some
glue on this one, on both sides, and then use this Irwin 36 Inch Clamp. It's pretty good clamp for about $15-$20 depending on if you can
get them on sale or not.

It helps everything hold in place, while you screw everything together. Again, the main thing you're gonna do, is make sure this very top
side down here is flush, before you put your screws in. You also want the back to be flush. (clamp sliding) We'll gonna put this other one on just to, and I just snug them up, there's not a lot of
pressure to them at all. Just got to hold everything in place, while you attach the screws. (electric drill squeaks) To be perfectly honest, I don't really know how I'm
gonna do the drawer yet, that's why on the front is not on there, but we know we'll have
some pieces down here, and they'll also be 2 1/2 inches.

So you'll need two the same length, two 12 inch, two 11 1/2. So I'm just gonna put glue
on both sides of this piece. I took my combination square. If you don't have one of these get one. They're like a bucks, maybe less. You can set depths on it. I Mark 2 inches here on, for
the front and the back piece, and then 3 1/2 inches on the side pieces.

And just from the bottom of the leg, to the bottom of your
board, it's two inches. Same things we did on the coffee table. If you haven't seen that
build go check it out, after this video. Just get it close and
then snug that clamp up. It doesn't have to be super tight. (gently hammering noise) You're just looking for flush.

You wanna flush the face of
this board up with the leg. That's all you're looking for. I'm gonna check my measurements, make sure we got 2 inches. It's 2 out of 16, so it needs
to come up a little bit. (gently hammering noise) I put just a little more pressure on it, when I get that where I want it. (gently drilling) Don't overdrive those it'll
bust through on the other side, if you're not careful. (gently drilling) (upbeat instrumental music) So I just cut a piece of
a 1*6, 11 1/2 inches wide, which is the same as our
cross members on the back. And then I cut a piece that's
an inch and a half wide, by 11 1/2 inches long.

That's gonna go in behind here, just so. And the reason I have this piece up there, this is actually gonna be my drawer face. And I want to, I need a piece back here, to brace everything this way. And it's also gonna act as a stop, when the drawer goes in, so this is flush. So I'm just gonna mount this
in there, glue and screw. An inch and a half is about as narrow, as you're gonna be able to get, with getting two pocket holes on it.

Uh! Fell all the way down. Just get it in place (indistinct) Snug that up a little. So the main thing I am concerned about, is if that drawer face is flush, very very close to flush, when it hits that, (gentle hammering) cross-member in the back. And when he gets there, go ahead and tighten this clamp down. You're not trying to break anything, but you want it to snug.

(upbeat instrumental music) And what I'll do is, I'll trim this piece up just a little bit, to give clearance on each side, so that when your drawers in there, it doesn't just have to be
really pressed in there. But that's basically what you're gonna do. We're gonna build a drawer
that goes here to the back. This will be the face of it. That's what we will do. So in that frame, I have
enough room to make a drawer, that's 3 1/2 inches thick,
at the thickest point. I've got some spare plywood laying around, and I'm gonna use that to make my drawers. You can use one of those
sixes if you want to, since this is a 1*6 build. I'm gonna use plywood, and cut them into 3 1/2 inch strips. I'm gonna need four, 3 1/2 inch strips. 12 inches will be my longest piece. (upbeat instrumental music) So I'm building a drawer, not much different than
these on the bottom, that I got on my own stand stand. The, these drawer slides, I'll drop a link in description
below to the drawer slides.

These are 12 inch drawer slides, ball-bearing, they're
gonna glide super smooth, very good quality and very inexpensive. I know that I want my
drawers 12 inches long. So I have a 12 inch, two 12 inch pieces. I also know that since
these are 1/2 inch thick, that this is gonna take a
1 inch, off of the width. So 11 1/2 inch width, for our
opening, for our table frame. So this should be 10 1/2
inches wide, which it is. So you're cutting this piece, plus the thickness of these two, should equal 10 1/2 inches, if you're building a table
like the one I'm making. So this piece is actually
9 and just shy of 1/8, it's actually between a 1/16 and an 1/8th, because these aren't exactly
3/4 of an inch plywood. So you would be, make sure you measure, if you're using your
1*6 to make the drawer.

So these are Pocket Hole
Construction as well. So these two end pieces, will
get pocket holes on each side. (upbeat instrumental music) So to assemble one of
these drawers, very simple. If this was a drawer, that was gonna be holding a
lot of weight, on the inside. So like dressers, things like that, you can go check out my dresser build, where I built drawers for it. Basically the same thing, except for I cut a slot in all of these, and slipped the quarter inch plywood in. And on this we're just gonna tag it, to the bottom with glue and brand nails, because this is a remote drawers, for remotes and magazine. So very little weight
bearing is gonna be needed. So assembly is extremely simple. You're just gonna line everything up, put a clamp on it. If everything is cut square, and you flush everything up, then you should have a
decent drawer that's square, whenever you get it all done. (upbeat instrumental music) So, you basically made a box, and it should be 10 1/2 by 12, and then I just cut a piece, of quarter inch plywood, 10 1/2 by 12.

Super simple, just put
some glue on this thing. (upbeat instrumental music) I'm just gonna use brad nails. These are like one inch brad nails. (upbeat instrumental music) Got yourself a drawer right there. Clean that glue up, from
the inside with a damp rag, and of course the drawer face
will attach, just like that. Nice little drawer. I'll take a little break. I was tired and hungry. You ever get that way just,
don't feel like finishing, you just wanna go sit on the couch. I felt like a while ago.

I'm all right now though. So off camera, I sanded
this thing to 120 grit. No need to show all that. Now it's time to cut our X braces. If you saw the last video,
on that coffee table, just laying right there actually, you know how to do this. If you didn't see it, go watch it. It's easy. However, quick rundown, what I'll do, is I will clamp to the sides, make sure it's lined up in the corners. Make my marks from the backside, and then take it to the saw and cut it, sneak up on the cut, make sure everything fits perfect. And then we'll go do the
other side the exact same way. We'll make our marks, and then we'll also mark the center, where these boards to come across, glue and brad nailed it in, that's all it takes.

That's all we do. (upbeat instrumental music) Before I stain this piece, I'm gonna go ahead and
install the drawer slide, make sure everything works right, and then we're gonna take
the drawer slides off. It seems a little counter productive, but I wanna make sure everything fits, and works correctly, before I would go to
the trouble of staining. So I just got 12 inch drawer slides. That's the front, that's got
that little bent piece on it.

The back doesn't have that. I measure down from the top
2 1/2 inches made a mark, drew a straight line with my square, done that on both sides. So I don't want that drawer slide, coming any further, than right there. So this is my drawer face, now I just take a quick lamp, put that in, put that in place. What that's gonna do is allow me, bump that up, against that door face, and it not be in the way. So I know that right there, everything's gonna be flush. It's gonna work correctly, it's not gonna be in the way. So I take that drawer face off, extend the drawer slide, out of the way, and that line I made, is right through the
center of those holes.

Take a drill bit, and
pre-drill those holes, so you don't split your wood. (upbeat instrumental music) (machine drilling) So we'll do that on the
other side, and then we'll, I'll show you how to
install the drawer slide. I think I put it on backwards. Did I? No, that's right. So what I did, was I
just held this up here, and I've already got those installed. I held it up here, and dropped it about, maybe an, 3/16 to 1/4 of an inch. And then I made a mark on the drawer. I drew a line, it's actually an inch and 1/16, down from the top. So these just have a little
clip-on, raise it up, it'll pop right out. Then you'll line that line-up. See how that line runs
right through the middle. You want it to put it in the
center of that oblong hole, and the round hole, and then the same thing down here, and it'll be straight. To line up the front, just take a drawer face, or whatever you're putting
on the front of it, and just butt it up to it.

(upbeat instrumental music) Moment of truth. (upbeat instrumental music) Yeah buddy! So now, what's left, is actually just to install
the drawer face on here. I'm just gonna clamp this on here, and then we'll screw from the backside, into the drawer face. There's no need for a drawer handle, they can just reach under,
and pull this thing out, push it back in. Only thing
is you wanna make sure, you got an equal gap on each side, and we do, it's flush on the front, that's what we wanted, bingo! And I'm gonna leave it just a little shy, to clear the tabletop It's gonna be sticking over it. So I'm just gonna pre-drill
from the back, 2 screw holes. If I drill all the way through
that, I'm gonna be upset. (upbeat instrumental music) (machine drilling) So these are 1 inch Kreg screws.

I'm just gonna use those. I know they won't pop through. (upbeat instrumental music) Now we're gonna build
the top and the shelf, out of 1*6s, however big I need it. (upbeat instrumental music) So for the top, I cut three boards 18
inches long, out of a 1*6, on the bottom same thing three,
18 inches long out of 1*6. On the top, these are
four and five eight seats. And that's gonna make 14
inches across tiny bit over 14. No worry about it. Well, the shelf has to
be 11 1/2 inches wide. So average three of, three
of 13, 16, some niche. This one is 3 3/4 so it's a 16th inch, less than the other two,
to make everything fit, so that it's not so snug. And we're just gonna talk, and all you wanna know is
just like I do my tabletops. So if you haven't seen that,
there's actually a video. I'll drop a link in description below, on how to make tabletops.

But basically, I've already drilled three
pocket holes in each one, we're gonna glue, and put them together, and just pocket and screw them together. (upbeat instrumental music) So I actually cut all three, all six of these boards,
18 and 1/2 inch long, so that I can purposely, I've
purposely cut them that way, so I could go back and rip off each edge, so that I can get everything, nice and square from the table saw. Let's go do that on the table saw. (upbeat instrumental music) Now we'll sand these to 120 grit, and we'll be ready to stain. What I didn't show, did I show it? I don't think I showed it. I cut these slots in
there, to hold a tabletop, with the tabletop fasteners from Rockler.

I'll drop a link in the description below. If you wanna see a full breakdown, on how I cut the slots, and install these tabletop fasteners, I did that in the previous
coffee table build, I'll drop a link in the description below, so you can go check that out. I don't wanna rehash something, that's gonna take up a lot of time, if you already know how to do it. You can check that out. Link in description below, to how I cut the slots, and installed these tabletop fasteners. (upbeat instrumental music) All I do is roll it smooth as butter. Yay! This turned out very nice, for just a such a small end table, 24 inches tall, 18 inches deep, and 14 inches wide. Has this sliding drawer, nice bottom shelf, made out of all 1*6s except the drawer where I
cheated and use plywood. But you can use 1*6s,
it won't hurt anything.

You ripped them down to
this size, same difference. The bottom of that drawer, is a quarter inch piece of plywood. So now we're gonna Pre-Stain Conditioner. If you look back a few videos, you'll see where I use this stuff, show you how to use this stuff, and why it's very important to use this, especially on softer woods
like Spruce and Pine. After that, go with some
Minwax Dark Walnut stain, on the whole thing.

It's gonna be all stained Dark Walnut. And then after that, we'll put a clear coat
of polyurethane on there. I may or may not show this whole process. I don't know. You've
seen it a hundred times. What do you think? The tabletop is not on there, the shelf is not on there. I'm gonna stain those separately, and after everything is stained, and clear coated, then
we'll install everything. I don't want to try to stain it all, very difficult to get up,
in the edges and stuff, and then you wind up.

It just looks better, if you stain it on unassembled. Also same thing with the drawer, I'm gonna take this drawer off, take the drawer slides off, and stain everything separately. Then we can assemble everything, once everything's dry. That's what we'll do. (upbeat instrumental music) You got your holes already drilled, because we did that earlier, before we stain this piece, or if you're painting it, painted it, you've taken them off, so all you should have to do, is just put the screws
back in the same hole, everything should, should,
should line up just right. (upbeat instrumental music) (machine drilling) Installing the slides
on the drawer itself, are exactly the same. You should have three holes there. Everything is supposed to line right, (machine drilling) right back up. That way everything when
you put the drawer in, (machine drilling) there is no guesswork. (machine drilling) So those drawers come out, there's just a little, that tab there on the left, it pushes up on the right. It's basically just flipped over, so you push down on it, with that releases from the slide itself.

(machine drilling) I hope this works out. Let's hope, hope, hope, hope is not really a
good plan though is it? So when you reinsert these, (click sound) you'll hear that click, and then it's gonna stop. It's gonna stick on you. It's supposed to do that. So then you're gonna have
to actually mash on it, you put a little pressure, until it goes all the way. Till you push it all the way in, then you can pull it back out, and it'll operate as normal. These ball-bearings slides
actually have a little bit of, there's a catch in there, to lock it in place so
that it doesn't pop out. So sometimes you have houses, that have uneven floors or whatever. If you had a free flowing drawer slide, if it was tilted forward,
it would just roll out. But these are not like that.

They have a positive stop in there. It worked. And here's the beauty of
me doing this before you. It would've been much
easier to install this top, without the drawer on there.
But it can still be done, it's not a problem. So you're just gonna turn
this table upside down, onto the top, put something down, so that the top doesn't get scuffed up. You can open the drawer now. And I'm just gonna, make sure everything has even
spacing all the way around. Should be about 1/2 inch on each side, all four sides. That's rather close. I like that about it.

Make sure it looks in line. If you're wise, you
would drill a pilot hole. These are very simple to install, come closer I show you, if you've not seen me
install any of these before. So they just slide into those
slots we cut previously. You'll take some type of small drill bit, it's a little smaller than your screw, and drill a pilot hole. (machine drilling) Careful not to drill all
the way through your top. And the pilot hole just
gives a little more room, for these screws to go into, so we don't bust our
tabletop at this point, because I would probably cry. (machine drilling) And you just wanna snug those up. They don't have to be super tight. You don't wanna overdrive
them, strip the wood. That's all there is to,
we're gonna put the rest in.

(upbeat instrumental music) It's normal pointing out my mistakes, because we all make them,
and mistakes happen, but we can fix some of them, most of them. Apparently, I don't know
what happened there. It looks like a tiny scratch or something. And we'll take a Q-tip, with a little bit of Dark Walnut, and just fill that in, and
it'll just be a dark spot. I can't remember if I
said it on this video, or the coffee table build video, but it's important you get
all your glue cleaned up.

And the reason that is, and we'll show you the
inside of the drawer. See the lighter spots, you can see right here in this stain, that's glue. That's where my finger had
glue on it or something, and I touched before it got stained, and I didn't get that sanded off. It's not a big deal because
it's inside this drawer, would I have preferred it not to be there? Obviously, but it's
there and to get it off, you'd have to sand that and restain it.

It's a whole process. So if you have a spot on the tabletop, or on the side, when you
sand it and re-stain it, then it's gonna look different. Even if you're stain it the same color. So be extremely cautious, about having glue
leftover on your projects. (upbeat instrumental music) I would appreciate if you click that box, takes you to the next set of videos, that helps the channel
more than anything else, you can do is to click the box, go to the next video and watch that. If you share this on your
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