Drillmaster Trim Router Unbox Thorough Review Tips And Tricks


Hi, every one. Today I’m going to unbox and the drill master 120 volt quarter-inch trim router it’s a hand tool or hand router and it has a twenty six thousand rpm speed to it so it’s pretty quick and it’s basically for small wood routing projects I have a bunch around the house where the wood needs to be replaced or trimmed or basically made to look a little better than what it currently looks like and I’m also going to be using this 12 bit so I had 12 piece router bit set it’s a quarter inch they’re all quarter-inch bits and so they’ll easy go into the standard quarter inch collet that accepts most router bits so I’m going to try all the router bits on there you know separately but I probably won’t video that but I do need bits to actually test it out and show you how it works so this is a kit I bought to do that with and both of these are pretty value priced you know and available on Amazon and I’ll put the links to both of these things on Amazon as well so let’s get it out of the box well here’s your manual I strongly suggest reading that and following all the safety precautions without outlined on that and nice box good packaging you know I would suggest to keep the box in this case because there’s a lot of separate little parts to it and you want to keep them all together in one place that the cardboard box will do most most people just fine so let’s get all the gear out of here okay well first thing we’ve got a set of brushes for the motor great so the brushes are removable or replaceable that’s a good thing a couple nuts and screws little another nut and sorry a little bolt here so we’ll go we’ll see what that goes through probably to all the guide to this to the guides that come with this unit I will lay all the parts out and show you them all again there is the wrenches those are the wrenches for putting on the bits and taking off the bits so nice gives you two of those yeah this is the side guide here for guiding the router and looks like another guide that’s great it’s adjustable screw adjustable here and basically I’ll run through it see how it works but yeah another router guide there and of course last but not least the router itself go box aside for now have all the parts and pieces that came out of the box we have various nuts bolts and knobs washers and so on a set of brushes for the motor that’s great nice to have a spare fence looks like a side guide or maybe a side cover for the actual router itself I believe it goes with this trim guide a couple of wrenches to put the bits on and off the head or the collet and a trim guide here adjustable trim guide nice thing they have and the actual router itself and I will go over what pieces go with what here the nuts bolts and washers and so on I’ll help I’ll show you how to assemble those and how they go and next I’m just going to go through this the router and all its components here we have the actual router itself it’s good-looking unit has a nice finish on it as well which I don’t enjoy it’s got a nice feel to when you’re holding it and let’s go through the components first we have a clear adjustable base and this is allows you to adjust the base to whatever height you want or need to actually route at the right level also you have a nice open window here which allows you to have access to the to the collet and the actual locking mechanism here for the router to allow you to put router bits in without actually having to take this whole assembly off there’s plenty of space in there to tighten it up so the two wrenches will fit in there no problem and as well it’s a viewing window so it’s nice because it allows you to see through to your work so that and it’s clear base well that allows you to see through your through to your work as well it’s adjustable here with the with the rack and pinion as you can see and it is you can you lock it by screwing down this side and that locks a whole unit down so what else we have we have the the access doors for the brushes nice to have the ability to change them when they wear out that’s a nice feature we have the power on and off switch which is just like it’s a protected switch so as you can see there’s two guards on both sides of the switch has a nice feel to it of course at the power cord and the plug itself so that’s basically all the components of the actual router itself again nicely built it’s got a nice motion to it here this base is actually removable and if you can see here you’ll see that if there’s a channel here that is off to the side for the removal of this unit so let’s go and do that you get to the basically and here turn it a little bit and then it comes right off and then we have the router all by itself notice that also there’s a depth guide here a ruler in centimeters and inches as well so that’s a handy thing to have so let’s put the bottom base back on again it’s just the exact opposite procedure put it in through the gear there once it gets to the top turn it counterclockwise and then you’re up all the rest of the way and it does stop at the bottom here that that whole turnin thing is how you get it off so that’s that’s a neat feature as well I like that and so let’s take a look at the actual rack and pinion here and I just take it off the router it’s plastic you know it doesn’t feel all that great but you know again it’ll probably do the job as long as you go easy on it okay so I’m going to remove the lock there and then I’m going to remove the gear so there’s the gear in the lock and so the base is off now there you go and here we have the nut and bolt mechanism that goes through everything this little end piece here I could turn it with my finger I don’t know if you want that to happen I’m going to probably secure that down see if I can anyway see what happens when I put it in there yeah I’m sure I can tighten that down so I’ll use a my wrenches here it looks like an eight millimeter and I’ll just hold the shaft with it with the what do you call it a adjustable wrench alright here’s my adjustable wrench I’m going to put that on the shaft first modification I’m just going to tighten that nut down here not very tight just just not there we go so it won’t roll around anymore or that’s hopefully that fits nicely into the knob now that’s me sure yep there we go and what that assures me is that the the whole knob has channels in it there we go you can see the channels and of course on the other side the octagonal I think or you know anyways basically it fits nicely on the shaft and now I have contact on this top surface and the inside surface on that knob as well so you know you may want to tighten that down don’t need to just one of those things I did so next we’re going to put this back in and so the procedures just the exact reverse is taking it off just put it in like this I’m going to put the gear in there we go just like that it’s all the way in and put the locking nut back on here there we go and that’s it next just put it on to the gear onto the rack here they’re matching the gear on the rack here and then turn it clockwise sorry counter clockwise and goes the rest of the way and then at this point if you want to lock it down you just lock it down okay so eight millimeter and adjustable to tighten that up let’s put a bit into it seems to be pretty simple I’m really happy that that switch is actually protected because I could see that snapping off really easy I mean you’re putting a bit in you knock it the wrong way and it would just think gone then you’d be in a bit of trouble there have to get a new toggle slate to switch on it so I’m glad it’s protected that’s that’s a nice feature and ice they’re thinking on that so here we have the actual collet and it just goes counterclockwise here and basically the quarter-inch bit would just drop in like this and lock down using the two wrenches that are supplied you can use your own as well if you wish I think I will because these are rather skinny as you can see and I use them once already on here and it’s marring up the you know even just once using them once it’s already mired up my my not here as you can see some scratches on it there and probably right on the other side as well so I recommend using a better wrench than these if you have them if not they’ll do just fine alright the two wrenches are a 10 millimeter and a 17 millimeter wrench so you need to metric wrenches for that I’m going to show you how to put the bit on and I’m going to take the actual base off so you can see it better but you can leave the base on and actually fit the two wrenches in there and I’ll show you that so there’s your 10 millimeter for the actual axle and then the 17 millimeters for the collet nut will fit just fine in there like that so but I’m going to take that off just to show you that and okay so there’s the collar that comes off very nicely very easily we’ll put the bit in and they suggest to put the bit all the way down so I’m following their direction put the 10 millimeter on the shaft and the collet nut we’re just going to tighten it down with the 17 millimeter and you want it nice you want snug I don’t want to go so tight that you strip it but that’s pretty good right there you’ll develop a feel for that don’t go too crazy on it you do do not want to come off though as you know it is spinning at 26,000 rpm and that having that come off at that speed would not be a good thing so make sure you follow that well okay after mounting the bit I wanted to give you a bit of advice on this first of all when the bit is put on here it should be not first of all your your unit should be unplugged when you’re putting on at the bit or when you’re handling the bit in any way whatsoever make sure the unit is unplugged even though you have a safety switch on the back it doesn’t matter there is possibility something go wrong and turn on and hurt you so unplug it when you’re servicing the head or the bit first thing I want to show you too is there should be no wobble in that bit whatsoever so let me zoom in as far as I can right there should be no wobble in that head at all it shouldn’t be moving in this direction at all she should be straight set when you turn it there should be absolutely no I mean I’m moving the let me hold it router a little bit better but when you spin it there should be no perceivable change in angle in the top it should be staying steady and rock steady and another way to check that is to flip it up on its top and look at the edges around the center circle here especially with this bit which is a very broad bit and it should not wobble towards any direction it should maintain the same clearance all the way around when you’re turning it so let’s do that and I don’t see too perceptible I mean looks perfect it doesn’t look like it’s moving at all so I mean I’m tired for me because I’m not holding a steady for you to see that but basically if you look at the one of the blades and follow it all the way around it should maintain the same location or the same you know distance from the edge now of course this this clear plastic isn’t exactly centered perfectly but it should basically you know you should not see any wobble in this in any direction whatsoever it should be rock-solid centered now if it’s not centered the one thing you need to do is maybe take it out put refit it back in and test it again and if it’s still wobbling there’s a possibility that you have a bent bit so take the bit out try another try all your bits and see if there’s any wobble or if they all have wobble if they all have wobble well more than likely there’s something wrong with the router you know there is a slight possibility every one of your bits is bent but I mean that’s crazy you know it’s possible but doubtful and if they all wobble when you put them in then there’s something wrong with your mounting Koller or your call it and which case I would you know send the unit back or return the unit and get another one the have that takes the bits without wobbling another way to also check is that this should be very very little vibration to the unit when it’s at full speed in other words you should see very little or feel very little wobble I don’t know I can’t really show you that but I’ll turn it on here and the best time to look for wobble is as its powering down from full speed I mean you can see it 26,000 rpm it’s going to be a more or less a blur if it’s wobbling so you’ll see that it’s blurry but when you when you power it down and slowing down you should be able to see whether it’s moving or not so let’s just power it up and as you can see it’s just rock-solid centered so I’m very happy with how that’s actually fitting into the center again very little vibration on this unit when it’s properly balanced and it’s balanced because the bid is not bent and it’s actually fitting into the collet unit or the clamping unit perfectly so that’s the way it should be if it’s any other way if you’ve got any wobble at all you know change your bit try it again and if you still get wobble in all your bits then it’s not the bit it’s something wrong with the actual router and so what’s one thing to make sure right off the bat is that you have proper alignment or a proper lock on your on your bit if you don’t return it get another one I just put the base back on here like that and now you’re ready your router as you can see it fits nicely there’s a good space around the base for that router bit so basically that’s how you put the router bit into it and now you’re ready to rock and roll here you adjust your height to what you want and then go routing next we’re going to put the fence assembly on the base of the router and we have all this hardware that goes on here first a bit of hardware or kit is the locking knob and bolt for the base itself and it is a the locking knob a silver washer and a wavy or wave washer so this is a sure bent into a wave shape so we’ll put that aside for now because we’re not doing that right away the next bit of kit is or hardware is the actual hardware to assemble the fence and you have a split washer a these are all black by the way a black washer a black wing nut and a carriage bolt and the carriage bolt struck me as kind of a subject strange here because if we look at the instructions here and bring it up a little bit you’ll see that they wish they want the wing nut on top now if you were to do that with this carriage bolt it wouldn’t work correctly so they’re actually showing you how to do this incorrectly in this description as well as in the bottom half here where they show you how to do temporary guide again they show the wing that on top and that’s just not going to work correctly for this unit and I’ll show you why here in a second so we got the carriage bolt and what’s special about a carriage bolt is that it has an actual sort of nut base you see that there’s a square base on the bottom okay and that’s handy here except if you assemble it the way they tell you to assemble it and I’ll show you what I mean now from your childhood toys you know that a square peg doesn’t go into a round hole and the way they say to assemble this is to actually have the pieces come together like this as such and then to put the carriage bolt in through the bottom as such well what happens is that because it’s a scary carriage bolt and it has a square base it doesn’t go through the round hole it’s not it doesn’t work right and what you end up having is this space on the bolt on the back where you can’t go any further through through the actual unit and then you get a lot of basically a lot of slop here at the top on that on that slider much better way to do this is to put the carriage bolt through the top have it fall into the slider and now that the slider actually holds the carriage bolt from turning when you’re putting the wing nut on it and actually allows it to slide nice and nice and smoothly on that slot so the carriage bolt as far as I’m concerned should go through the top and down through the bottom once you’ve got that down then we’re going to put the okay and here’s the orientation of the fence piece so you can see like that okay so once you got that through like that then you’re going to put your washer on your carriage bolt spring washer or lock washer and your wing nut and this makes a lot more sense than the way they say to assemble it now my wing nut seems to be having a bit of an issue here there we go and basically turn it clockwise until it locks and you’ll notice once it locks but you don’t have to hold the carriage bolt because it’s being held by the bracket itself here okay so I’m going to lock it down all the way and there we go it’s not going anywhere and it holds now I don’t find it to be the best solutions here because it still let me zoom in on it you’ll see that there’s still a space above on the top here so what I’m going to do to fill that space on on here is to put a washer and through that and that will give me more surface contact on this actual slider though it’s working right now it’s not really working to my you know satisfaction so I’m going to put a washer to fill that space up maybe two washers and you know I’ll show you that next all right so I’ve got my modified washer system here and it’s a number eight washer that I’m using and see it’s going to be perfect for this purpose they actually supply a number six washer here and this is the flat black washer but this is an optional part it’s not required but it’s certainly going to make the guide work better so let’s put it back together again the way I was showing you earlier again we’re going to put the carriage bolt through the top right and first thing we’re going to do on the carriage bolt is take that number six washer put it on it and I’ll zoom in on that here so you can see what that looks like and you can see that the number six washer fits the square bottom of this bolt all the way to the base so that’s perfect that’s what we want so use a number six washer for that to fit it through the hole as shown in the well not as shown as in the instructions but fit through the hole put your secondary washer on the back your split washer lock washer on the back again and then your wing nut like so and tighten it down and now you have a really nice functioning guide with the washer on the top to give you more friction to hold the top of this guide as well and you know a much better fit so I suggest strongly getting a numbers number eight washer for the top of this and mounting it as I have here so that will give you a much better guide and a much better assembly it really really has a nice ride to it at this point you could even if you wanted to go get yourself a their carriage bolt and do it again on the back then you got two locks and then there’s no wobble in it at all though once you lock it down there is no wobble there anyways but again talk to you whether you you buy extra hardware to make this work better so that’s how you do the thanks guide and next you got the mounted on the actual unit itself and it just basically goes like this you get your thumb bolt and your washers I’ll show you how to do that and your washers go okay your washers are going to go like this your way you wash it first on this and then your secondary washer here you’re number six I would say silver washer on there as well then you take the fence guy place it on the actual base as such and then tighten it down by turning the bolt on that clockwise and what that wavy washer does is allow you to release tension without actually losing this guy by it sort of keeps a bit of pressure on the plate itself so there we go that’s all the way down tight and that’s what it looks like from the top just like that and this allows that little knob allows you to do a lot of things like adjust the height so if you have a piece that you know you need to adjust the height on it gives you that functionality there and also if you loosen it all the way off just take it right off and again putting it back on you just slide it back in and make sure it’s under the washers like so and then lock it down now the next thing we’re going to do is set up what they call a temporary guide and what basically what you’re going to do is you’re going to you can use the fence as a unit to actually route a circle or cut a circular piece using the router itself and the way you do that is by taking the wing nut off the back of the fence and the hardware off the back of the fence like so take the carriage bolt in our optional number eight washer on the back off and what you do is you put it on top as such and then you use the secondary hole or whichever hole you wish to use that best gives you the ability to do what I’m going to show you next again carriage bolt goes through the bottom or basically that make sure that goes through the slotted piece of the guide like such black washer split washer for locking the wing nut the wing nut there it’s nice and tight now what this allows you to do is take the router put the guide on the router lock it down like so and what’s this lockdown now the fence is sitting above it but that the reason for the fence there is to give you the ability to basically use it to route a hole so at this point if you had let’s say a nail or maybe a uh you know yeah anneal would probably be the best thing to put on there or a stud or something through that hole you can now make it go around that circle like so and then you can cut a circle using it and by adjusting the guide you can adjust the diameter the hole right and if that’s not big enough for you you can turn this around and have the hole on the other side or take this nut off and use this hole as the actual guide for giving you a nice even radius all the way around that piece of wood so however you want to hold it down that’s what that’s for so yeah this hole to use as a you know as a stud point or you can take this not to washer and assembly off here put it over here and use the hole on this side for the same purpose it’s up to you right but that’s how you use that as a temporary guide to do circle by a circle cutting which is a great feature so next we’re going to do some routing it actually no there’s one more guiding I want to show you and on the machine and how to use it next we’re going to install the trim guide and this is a nice little device that comes with a tool I recommend putting a little lubricating grease on it on the surfaces just to make it you know give it that much better action when you’re moving it but the nice feature about this is that it allows you to guide your router bit a little bit more accurately and I’ll show you how it goes on it goes much like the fence goes on onto the head unit like this and then you just lock it down and as you can see here I’ve got the you know do you got various adjustments in height so on and so forth and you can adjust the height of it by you know turning the knob and changing it here now I would suggest not coming that close to your bit because you don’t want to actually make contact with it with the device that’s spinning at 26,000 rpm it’ll wear through this in no time and it might damage the bit as well so you know keep it at a distance away from the bit you’ll notice that this bit has a bearing on top right here and you can use that as a guide to make a cut but sometimes you may want to not go as deep into the piece of wood and this would you could use this as a guide like so by adjusting the length there to keep it further away from the wood and then just lock it down with the top piece less so and you can use that as a guide to keep you from further away from the piece of wood and basically shaving off less or more now another workplace you can use this as well is with standard bits go back on this to Fernet there we go and I’m going to remove it for a second remove the bit grab a different bit again I’m going to put a link to these bits on the actual video description and let’s say we had a you needed a straight cut in a piece of wood and you’re going to use a straight cut bit like this one it has no bearing on the top so you may want to more accurately guide that you could also you could use a a what I call a side guide on this to give you that you know kind of straight line on it or you could use the fence as well right or in this case you could use this guide here and then it basically acts like the bearing would on a normal bit and it gives you the ability to adjust the depth and how deep you’re going to go into it basically it’s a nicer trim guide nicer guide but it’s up to you how you use it this gives you that nice functionality of being able to limit how deep you go on that what is that called a straight cut quarter inch bit now again how use it’s up to you but it’s a definitely nice bonus on this router and it comes with a router so next we’ll do some routing and see what we get although the quarter-inch strength bit wasn’t thick enough to actually make the trim guide useful I’m going to use a trim guide on the five-eighths the straight bit and just going to use it to cut a notch off the edge of the piece of wood and show you how it works with that and notice that this bit does not have a bearing on the end of it so that’s this is a perfect place for the trim guide to actually do its job so next I’ll show you that so here’s the notch cut out of that and it looks fairly nice like a fairly smooth cut if you can see here I’ll go through the whole thing close quarters there as you see it’s a fairly good cut there’s a little bit of wobble in it but the one problem is this if your piece of wood is not straight like this one is not straight now you can see that the the wood itself has a bit of a you know a bow to it right here it will also carry through to the route so there’s the other problem if your wood is not perfectly straight then your cut will not be perfectly straight either you’ll get the same bow in the cut as you do have on the edge because the the trim guide actually rests on the edge itself so there’s a trim guide it works just fine especially if you have a nice straight piece of wood but this is not a nice straight piece of wood so you don’t get a nice straight notch I’m going to freehand a cut here using the router and of course like with all power tools make sure you follow all the safety precautions and you wear this right and correct safety gear my case I’m wearing safety glasses and ear protection but one of the things I wanted to show you is that the bit actually rotates in a counter clockwise direction so if you’re actually looking at it from the face it will be rotating this way and why that’s important is you want the face of the bit or the actual face of the blade on the bit to actually make contact with the surface in the direction that you’re traveling so in other words you want it to go around and chop all the way through now if you don’t know which way the direction of trote ssin is there is actually a narrow cut into the actual height guide or the guide as well you’ll notice on the guide that there is a part or a section which is larger than the other sections that’s what you want to rest against the actual wood so let me go outside let’s go this way so this is the wider guide and this is the side that you should be resting against the wood and the face will be here and it’ll be rotating in this direction so we want to hit it and move it in this direction if you go and eat from the other side back you can have a problem with the face not cutting it well and it’ll probably burn the wood as well so make sure that you travel in the right direction you’ll figure it out quite quickly if you’re doing it wrong because one way it just feels right the other way it just feels wrong another thing too you’ll see that you cut out here so you can see what you’re doing is on the long side of the guide so let’s do a I’ve got a really pretty I just got basically just chose a depth on the actual bit but it doesn’t really matter as I’m freehand in this so let’s start it up and do a cut okay so there’s a small cut now you notice that when I started to cut I’m going to get you a better angle on this so you can see what I actually did okay here’s the better angle let me get the cord out of the way now you notice that this is a bearing bit has a bearing on the end of it so what you want to do is you want to start where the bearing will actually make contact on the wood and of course in the right direction so you start the router spinning and then you’ll push it towards the bearing till it stops and then you’ll travel in that direction to cut the wood so let’s do that and so you can see what I do okay so there we go there’s a nice coke cut all the way across you saw how I started it here so that it went in and then I backed it up a little bit to make sure I got the very edge and now you see how nice that cut is on that piece so that’s a beautiful coke cut free handing it seems to work just fine now you can use a guide as well to hold the wood which case you could have a bit of an issue clamping you don’t have to clamp it on a long hand or somewhere else so that you don’t have an issue with the guide actually hitting the side of the guide or stopping the guide on your work all the way through but that’s a basic cut there I’ll do one more this one I’m just going to modify this cut a little bit by putting a slice on the top all right now I got my 3/8 round over a bit and it has a nice little sharp edge on the very corner of it and what I’m going to do is I’m going to use it to just basically rout a line on the top of this current Cove cut that I have just to make it a little nicer so first I’m going to start the router spin and get it up to speed then I’m going to actually actually get the cord out of the way so it’s not an issue but then I’m going to start it by starting the bearing at the end and just pushing it in until I’m done and then I’m going to slide all the way across so let’s do that all right now I just put a nice little notch on the very top of that cope cut just to make it look that much more fancy like I said you can play around with these bits and actually get you know all sorts of different patterns on there or you can buy the bit with the pattern already on it and you can go from there so let’s see what we got here let me bring that closer here’s what it looks like looks really nice I could give you some floral files here again claps I’m really cool to have and there’s the actual shape of it looks really nice add a little bit of extra here on the edge too but you could just you know use your finger and just take the excess off there that little shape edge a beautiful result so this is going to do a really great job for me and for the things I need to get done on the house what else on this basically the you I’d say just practice with some old wood take your time be careful follow the safety precautions of course and you know experiment with the guides I’m going to show you one more trick that I find to be really handy for this and you know for non bearing router bits as well and as well as bearing router bits just a better solution than the guide so I’ll show you that next little trick and you can you know go from there if you wish here’s what I’m going to use as a edge guide instead of what’s applied with the router I have a clamp and cut edge guide this is a 24 inch aluminum bar and it’s made for actually what you call it circular saws to guide you and give you a nice straight edge when you’re cutting but it will work beautifully fine here you know probably a smaller one would do better in this case but this will work just fine it’s got two clamps on basically had a clamp on the bottom you adjust it and you put it on the wood and then you set where you want it to cut so we’re going to do that I’m using two pieces of wood here just because I want to clamp solidly on both and it’s that the clamp would actually be overhanging a little bit so let me here we’ll put it where it’s going to actually do some work alright so I’m going to set this up and tighten it up so at this point what you do is get the clamp together like this and then snug it down check your sight your depth I’m a little off so I’ll change that okay almost there and I’m going to clamp all of this down to the table wood when it’s adjusted to the right depth I think I’m there and I’m going to check both ends with my ruler this end and that end just to make sure I’m parallel with that edge and then I’m going to use the straight bit on this router to cut an edge on that all right I got my clamping cut edge guide on that piece of wood and measured out right and have the straight quarter inch bit just to cut a notch on the edge of that block of wood so we’re going to do that next okay there’s a finish result the nice square notch cut out of that corner or corner of that block right there so did a great job doing a nice straight cut with that guide now the guys that come with it well I’ll use these I’ll do the same thing on the other side using the guides that come with the block and see what the result looks like all right so I fitted the trim guide on to this bit to see if I can get it to do the same thing and I can’t back the trim guide here far back enough to get that bit in as close as I need to to cut that notch out see if you can see that get a better look at it here like that that’s as far back as that roller is going to go so I’m limited to how deep it will cut it’ll just touch the edge of the wood and make a cut but it won’t do the same depth of knotch that that will do so you know for this purpose the clamping guide was better than is a better option than this now I’m going to use the fence and see if I can get the same result with a fence that this trim guide won’t work for this okay here’s the fence guide to came with the router adjusted correctly for that bit excuse me and it should do looks like it will do a good job of cutting out that notch and I’ve adjusted it to the depth of that hole with this router bit I’ve got that fence correctly adjusted for the right depth that I need to make that cut and I’m going to do that next now one of the things about using this fence is you can’t clamp down your work to keep it steady number one number two you need to when your saw when you’re cutting through the wood you need to make sure that you press against the fence to keep it from going deeper into the wood than it should okay so we’ll do that next let’s see what kind of result we get not a bad result but certainly not as good as it was with a clamping edge it’s definitely not as even see if I can bring that up and you can see this you can see that the edge is kind of choppy I’ve got some you know unevenness here at the start uneven unevenness at the end as well here it’s just nowhere near as good as the original cut I’ll show you the original cut I did with the saree where the clamping got a guide here the top one’s the original then it’s just perfect we’re the second the second one and I did with the guy with the fences choppy at best so you know maybe you can finesse it enough to get a good cut but it’s going to be a rough router every time you use that fence for a god I Drive much I will for certainly be using the clamping edge guide for this is to do so to do routing because it’s just nowhere near the same quality this looks really choppy it’s nowhere near as good as it was this is nowhere near as good as the second one was here the first one sorry not one’s just smooth and perfect this one’s just choppy and uneven so yeah it’s definitely recommend getting yourself a clamping edge guide to do the routing with oh and using just the bearing on the bottom of the router bit seems to work quite well as well but on bits that don’t have the bearing on the bottom the clamping edge guide is definitely the way to go you that’s it for my video thank you very much for watching if you like this video and it helped you out in some way do me a favor click on the like button right down here and you know if you wish to subscribe to my channel just click on this link up here and that should subscribe you to the Richard Lloyd channel or Richard blog USA channel ok again thank you very much for your time and watching.

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