DIY Modern Outdoor Chair | How To Build (with plans!)

today i'm going to show you how i made
this awesome outdoor lounge chair the frame for this chair is going to be
made from cedar two by fours i chose cedar because this is an outdoor
project and cedar is naturally resistant to water and rot
i started by trimming off this beat up end with my miter saw
and then i made all the cuts for my leg pieces
if you're interested in building this chair yourself i have a link to the
build plans in the description box below which include a full material list and a
cut list i cut two of each of the three base
pieces to make up the two legs i used a digital protractor and lined
out my angle for the first base piece and then i cut that angle with my tracks
off you could also easily use a circular saw
i continued finding all of the remaining angles for the leg pieces and then i cut
them with my track saw and again you can also use a circular
saw for this and i have plans linked down below to help you with these angles before i can glue up the base legs i
need to make the cuts that will join the seat back side supports
i clamped the two joining boards together and marked the angle that i
wanted to make this joint a little bit stronger
and get the look i'm going for i'm using a half lap joint this means
i'm going to remove half of the material from both of the members so they overlap
and join there are many ways to cut half laps but
i'm going to use a circular saw i set my circular saw to the correct
depth and then i clamped the two members together so i could cut them to the same
width at the same time and then i made many passes and cut
away the bulk of the material i used a scrap piece of wood in front of
where i was cutting so i had a flat surface for the bed of my circular saw
to rest on it also helps prevent tear out
you won't be left with a perfectly clean joint but a chisel will help clear any
rough spots out and you can see here how the two pieces
now fit together to avoid screws showing on these first
two pieces i'm going to screw them together from the bottom
to do this i glued and clamped the pieces together and then drilled out a
recess with a 3 8 bit and then i screwed the two pieces
together i'm using a waterproof glue since these
are outdoor chairs i link the glue and everything else i'm
using in the description box below to join the next two boards i used a
pocket hole that will be hidden under the seat slots and then for the last two pieces i again
recessed and screwed in from the bottom okay and now we can attach the seat back
side supports i grabbed my 3 8 inch forstner bit and
drilled about a half inch into the wood i then added wood glue clamps and then
screwed my two pieces together i repeated all the steps to make both
sides of the chair to fill the recesses i'm using this 3 8
tapered plug cutter this way i can cut plugs from the same
cedar that i've built with an alternative would be to just buy a
cedar dowel i then added some glue and i knocked in
the plugs i recommend paying attention to the
orientation of the grain of the dowel it looks best if the plug grain is
running with the grain of your board and then i saw them flush with my flush
trim saw i repeated the steps for the other side
and then i cut a back stretcher to attach the two sides together
this board will be attached using pocket holes the front stretcher has a unique angle
of 50 degrees and my table saw will only cut to 45 degrees
so my fix for this was to tilt my blade to 5 degrees
and cut a small wedge off one side of a scrap board i taped it to one side of my stretcher
this way with the extra five degree slant i can now tilt my saw blade to 45
degrees and get a 50 degree cut it worked with the cut made i then added
some pocket holes and glued and screwed it into place the top stretcher has a simple angle so
no fancy cuts necessary and i just repeated the process of
pocket holes and glue the seat slats for this chair are all
going to be the same size so i set up a stop block with a clamp at my miter saw
station and i made a bunch of repeatable cuts
the only slot that will be different is this first one that will match the angle
of the front i trimmed the angle with the table saw
but i couldn't get underneath it to screw it
in so i added glue and clamps and i just left it alone to dry
overnight which will dry plenty strong the next day i added pocket holes to the
back of my seat slats and started adding them in i used glue
and screws and then i used an off cut for my spacer
the bottom seat slats are going to need a center brace for extra support
i used a cedar 2×4 cut the front angle and then i set it into place i again
used the same offcut to get the depth of how far down the
brace should sit to secure the brace from the back side
i'm again going to recess screws this time i decided to try my
pocket hole drill bit to drill the recesses however this bit did not make a
clean cut so for the second recess i went back with my 3 8 forstner
bit which made a much cleaner cut i then pre-drilled drove in screws and
then added more cedar plugs just like before by the way you don't have to resize and
plug screws i just really like the way this looks with the center support in i can start
adding the rest of the seat slats i continue my method of gluing and
screwing them using pocket holes from underneath
and a scrap wood spacer to protect the bottom of the chair i'm adding these
rubber furniture feet this adds general protection but i also
like the idea of propping the chair up just a tad off the ground
so it doesn't sit in water when it rains there are a couple small cracks in the
wood that i want to stabilize so that they don't crack further to do
this i like to use starbond adhesives for the smaller one i'm going to use
this super fast thin adhesive it's watery thin and it's great for hairline
cracks because of its ability to penetrate narrow spaces
after a couple of coats i hit it with starbon's accelerator
which instantly cures and dries the glue the second crack is larger so for this
one i'm going to use starbond's thick gap filler
i again hit it with the accelerator and then i sanded both of the fills to a
smooth finish it's hard to tell on camera
because the glue is crystal clear but it has filled the cracks to be flush with
the surface and it's super strong these cracks are now stabilized the last
thing i did before finish was to take a sander and slightly round over the sharp
edge on the front of this chair for a finish suitable for exterior
use i'm going to use a mixture of teak oil
and spar urethane i learned about this mixture from izzy
swan's channel you mix 70 teak oil and 30 urethane brush it on
leave it for about 5 minutes and then wipe it off
my chairs are going to be under a porch and not directly exposed to the elements
however if you have outdoor furniture that's exposed to sun and rain
you might want to go with an even tougher finish i'm pumped with how this project came
out i made two of these chairs for my outdoor patio but they could also easily
be indoor chairs i have cushions made for my chair
because my chair's width is a little wider than traditional cushion
measurements i've left the dimensions of my cushions
in my written article linked down below i've also linked some store-bought
cushions that will accommodate just a slightly
narrower version of this chair if you'd like to build this project yourself i
also have downloadable pdf plans linked below the
plans are going to have a cut list a material list
and step-by-step instructions for the exact chair i made
or a slightly narrower version that will accommodate the store-bought
cushions you get both measurements in the plans that is it for this one thank
you so much for watching and i'll see you
on my next project

As found on YouTube

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