DIY Modern Console Table | Easy Woodworking Project

– How you doing I'm Matt,
with 731woodworks.com. Today, I'm gonna show you
how to build this fantastic amazing DIY coffee bar. It's not that difficult and you can do it. Mrs. 731 designed this
coffee bar to fit our space. I love how she designed this. This could be used as a
buffet in your dining room, this could be used as laundry storage. It has so many functions that you can use, it's such a functional piece. If you're interested in
building one just like this I have build plans available linked in the description below.

Lemme show you how we did it. All right, so now we're gonna start, by cutting out our plywood
to the length that we want or to the width we want. 14 and a quarter inches
is what I'm ripping this and I'm gonna take it to the table saw and rip that other quarter inch off so I'm making 14 inch strips. First thing I'm gonna do is cut my sides and my bottom shelf. And then from there, I'm gonna cut some one and a half inch strips
for my top two rails to tie everything together,
so that it's not flopping. And then after that, we'll
start installing those shelves.

First thing we're gonna do
is I'm using Kreg Rip-Cut, it attaches to any circular saw. I heard someone say that I say link in the
description too much. So, all the tools and supplies will be linked to the description below along with build plans is this project. I won't try not to say link in the description after this point, so you won't hear link in
the description too much, because I say link in
the description too much. 14 and a quarter inch rip. I've got them this plywood
clamped on the edge so that it doesn't shift and move. It's a very good idea when
you're using a Kreg Rip-Cut. The main thing that you wanna
do with the Kreg Rip-Cut is to hold that thing on the side all the way down, all
the way through the cut, 'cause it has a tendency to
walk at the end of that cut if you don't hold it tight. I've got my Pegasus work
tables over here on the left. It's gonna catch that drop
so that it doesn't fall. The last thing you wanna do
is get down close to the end and that thing start falling
and it'll break the plywood, so make sure you support that cut piece.

A lot of people put down a piece of foam, catch that drop or to
cut on top of that foam. If you don't have a table saw, you can build this project
with a Kreg Rip-Cut and some one by twos
instead of ripping down the face frame like I'm gonna do. So it is possible without a table saw, but a table saw will make
your life a lot easier. Let's cut. (saw whirring)
(rhythmic instrumental music) Y'all remember a little bit ago I told you to hold that rip-cut tight so it doesn't walk on you. Well, I didn't listen to myself and now I gotta straighten
this edge out because it walked and I need these edges to be straight.

So I'm just, I've gotta
Swanson Straight Edge here, I've got it clamped on both ends. I'm just gonna run my saw down there and get another straight
edge to reference off of, so that I can continue
to make it straight cuts. I'm a dummy. (saw whirring) Man, I think my blade would do, I think it lobbied so I get it. (saw whirring)
(rhythmic instrumental music) Come on. Man this blade is awful. That ain't gonna work. Whew, I'm making a mess. The struggle is real here. If you saw the Live Edge sign
we made a couple of weeks ago, you saw where I was trying
to cross cut that white oak, and the blade was already a little dull, but man that white oak ate this blade up.

And so now I'm tryna cut plywood with it and it is not going well. This thing is walking and
doing all kinds of crazy stuff. Gotta go get a new blade, then I'm gonna make a straight cut, and then I'm gonna get started again. Keep your blades a
fresh, don't be like me. (mumbles) Whew, come on. That circular saw blade has had it. In all fairness, it's
probably about two years old. New blade, new blade. Now I'm gonna cut some plywood strip. (rhythmic instrumental music) (saw whirring) Oh my goodness, what a
difference a new blade makes. Man I'm cheap, should have
bought that long time ago. Now I got a straight cut on that plywood. Now I can start making
some cuts, let's do it.

(rhythmic instrumental music) So we want the height of the console or the coffee bar to be 36 inches. We get that inch and a half pine top, so we're gonna cut the
sides 34 and a half inches. Let's do it. (saw whirring)
(rhythmic instrumental music) And a good way to make
sure that both pieces are exactly the same, you'll flush up this right
side or this the one end and just move it back in
place until that blade just touches the thing. And then you just make your cut.

That way they're both exact same. (saw whirring)
(rhythmic instrumental music) Two sides, pocket hole time. (drill whirring) All right, all right, all right. Bottom shelf, two sides and then we got two stringers for the top. Went ahead and drilled four pocket holes on the bottom shelf. And I know what you're thinking, "That dude is awesome 'cause
he's using pocket holes," and you're right. If you don't like pocket holes, man lemme tell you, this
channel may not be for you.

I use a lot of them. They're easy, they're approachable. That's why I keep using them. The majority of people
watching this channel are beginner woodworkers. They wanna make awesome
projects with basic tools. This is how you do it. No need to overcomplicate things for something that's gonna
hold coffee cups, dishes some very lightweight items. If this was a heavy duty shell for China, we'd make it as heavy duty as possible. We'd cut some dadoes in
here, not gonna do that. Fast, easy, beginner woodworker projects. Tape measure, pencil. I love building stuff, don't you? This is awesome. Up from the bottom. Almost like the pull the rooftop clip. Up from the bottom, we're gonna measure
three and a half inches.

And the reason we're doing that, is because my farmhouse TV stand, we're making this to match it. Well, it's a matching set. It's got a three and
a half inch trim piece across the front and down the sides. It also happened to be the
same size as a onebafour. onebafour. So that is a one by four. If you don't wanna rip down
one by sixes like I'm gonna do I'm gonna rip them down
to three and a half inches so they're not so good in square.

But you can also use one by
four to put on the front, and down the sides, that'll work for you. If you don't have means to rip things. What I'm gonna do is measure up from the bottom
three and a half inches. And I'm gonna make a mark. I'm gonna do that on both ends. And then we're gonna attach
this with pocket holes. I'm gonna take a, we
call this thing a clamp. I'm gonna take a clamp, hold it together. And they will put the top
stringers in the same way. It's three and a half
inches from the bottom and then we're gonna attach this bottom.

So from the, I say so a lot. – No more fillers. – No more fillers. – Use okay. – Okay, so (laughs) from the bottom of the
side panel up to the top of this bottom shelf is
three and a half inches. I've made a mark, we're
gonna put some glue on there. Then I'm gonna clamp it
down before I put the pocket hole screws in so
that it's all wompy jawed.

That way It doesn't get all wompy jaw, when you're putting it together. So you wanna make sure the front of this is flush right here. And then I'm gonna take
this 60 inch Harbor freight. Man these things are
cheap and they're great for just stuff, just like this. Lay it right on top. You'll line up that line inside there and then we'll pocket hole.

Just wanna make sure you keep that three and a half inch distance from the bottom up to the top of that shift. The way everything stays nice and square. So I just snug that side up. Then I wanna make sure this
side is where it needs to be. (hammer clangs) Once I get that on there, I'm gonna tighten it
up just a little more. Then we'll take one pocket hole screw and put in this top edge
because this front face is flat. And now this side here, that secures that and
then I can move down here and make sure everything
is like I want it before I tie it all together. It's actually a really simple build. The finished product will
look a whole lot more complicated than it actually is. These are inch and a
quarter pocket hole screws. (nail gun drilling) Do the same thing on this other end. I've already glued it
to make sure that line is lined up and this front side is flush. (nail gun drilling) I'm just gonna spin it around. If I had a little more mess, that'd be awesome.

Now the tops will be
really flimsy here because, there's nothing holding
them up there to be stable. Normally I would have just walked around to the other side and done this. Camera angles. See how they're really flimsy. That's okay, we'll fix that. That's what these are for. These will be covered up
by trim also or the back, which is a quarter inch plywood. The main thing here is I suggest you take these
pocket holes and go that way. If you come this way it's
gonna bust into that end. You don't want that. We'll glue both ends. Handy-dandy glue spreader there. Put a little more on this end, put the extra under there for later.

What I actually did was snug
this up just a little bit. That way it brings a little pressure in and then this doesn't slip
and slide and flop on you. Just wanna make sure the top is flush. This outside edge is flush. You know what? I got something for that. This is a thingamajig clamp. It's got that little thingamajig. It goes in the pocket hole. Buttolu. (nail gun drilling) Knock out these inch and a half because my trim piece is gonna be two inches. I'm not sure if I told you that. So now we're doing the exact same thing on the other side, backside front side, whichever side this winds up being. Again snug this clamp up so it
gives this a little pressure. So that you can, you don't have to just sit there
and hold it the whole time. You're gonna put a little glue again. Pencil keeps leaving So I just cut these,
they're actually about two and seven eights of an inch strips.

They should match whatever this is. So you measure from the
bottom of your shelf to the bottom of your legs or the sides. That's what thickness this will be. So make sure you double check that. So I just divided this
equally so that it gets a nice support all the way across. And then this is 17 and
three 16th of an inch from the inside of the leg
to the inside of your brace. On both sides, 17 and three sixteenths. And then the inside the inside here is also 17 and three sixteenths. Now these aren't perfect. It doesn't really matter because they're gonna
be hidden underneath. I just try to give it equal
support, so just get it close. I've marked a line a line there just so that I keep track of where this goes.

This is glue and you'll notice
I put two pocket hole screws that's gonna screw up into there. And then there's two that's
gonna screw into the face or to the backside of this trim piece. So the deck gives us
something to secure to. You just wanna make sure
this is flush right here. (nail gun drilling) This still is the same width as the end pieces the shelves, All the stuff should be cut the exact same width which is 14 inches. So what I wanna do is take this piece and cut it to fit inside
here, which should be 31 and just barely over an eighth. Between the eighth and three sixteenths. And then I'm gonna notch around
these braces to give, to tie into these braces that'll give
everything nice structure. So they'll just have a
little notch right here, cut out for this piece and
I'm gonna cut the link first.

So at the top, we know that
we want this thing to notch around a inch and a half wide
by three quarter inch wide or whatever your plywood actually is. So I'm just gonna hold that
there, just mark around it. That gives us our notch. Do that on both sides. (rhythmic instrumental music) Well, that is a Kreg R3 this is the first pocket
hole jig that I ever had and it's perfect for situations like this. I wanna take and drill a pocket hole so that I can attach to those runners. And this is a great way to do that 'cause this actually won't
go into the Kreg K5 now.

(nail gun drilling) We'll do that on both sides.
(nail gun drilling) So now I've gotten those
pocket holes screws or pocket holes in there. I'll put some glue down there
put some blue up here as well. That way I can pocket hole
screw that into the top. Underneath I'm gonna take and brad nail this in from underneath. That glue and brad now will be more than enough to hold this in place. Once that glue is bonded, it ain't moving. Same thing here is you wanna make sure that the front is flush
and the top is flush. You can do that, you good. (rhythmic instrumental music) So I went and cut the shelves out. They're just 14 inches wide on the sides. So these two are just 14 inches wide. You will remember we cut this 14 inches.

So it should just be a 14 inch
square, just double-check. So when you put it in
there the main thing, you don't want this pushing out and bowing or either side to flex, but
you want a good snug fit. So I'm on drill pocket holes. Shock, shock shocker. Pocket holes, probably three on each
side, put them in there. We wanna split the difference and make it right in the middle. And to do that, I just
measure down two inches and then measure up from
there to that two inch mark. Measure up up to that two inch mark.

29 and eighth, divide that in half, made a mark and then three
eighths inch down from there because this ply was about
three quarters of an inch. That puts the bottom of the shelf from the top of the bottom
shelf to the bottom of this middle shelf should be 14 and
three sixteenths of an inch. On this one, we're gonna
put this in three parts. I did the exact same thing,
I just divided it by three. And then I'll tell you the measurements so you can follow along. From the top of this shelf to
the bottom of the first shelf, you're looking at nine and
five sixteenths of an inch. and into the bottom of the second shelf nine and one sixteenth of an inch, 19 and one sixteenth of an inch. you wanna either wanna
measure at the bottom right at the top so
that you get them right. But it should be 23 and
nine sixteenths of an inch. After these shelves are in and
make sure you measure again just in case it's pushed
it in just a little.

You don't want it to but
sometimes it'll flex it in just a little bit, and you'll wanna have it
just trim that piece up. (rhythmic instrumental music) So we got the basic frame together. I got everything screwed, glued it needs some sanding to be done. We'll go and put the back on there. And what that quarter inch
plywood back's gonna do is just make everything rigid, rock solid. It won't rock side to
side, anything like that. Just gonna glue her brad nails on you saw me rip it.

Rip it good. I ripped it 34 and five eighths which is the height of our stand. Now i gotta cut it to length obviously. The reason I go ahead and put it on now, if you go watch the
"Farmhouse TV stand video," I put it on last and wind up sticking off the back quarter inch. You can see the edge
of it, not a big deal. Most people don't see
it, but I don't like it. So this time I'm going to put this on, and then we'll bring our trim out and cover that up nobody will ever see it. (rhythmic instrumental music) (mumbles) You all up in the video,
there you are. (laughs) So yesterday the battery died and this quarter inch plywood
back and you saw me put on. It adds a lot of structural
stability to your piece.

If you leave that off it's gonna
be rickety and wompy jawed. And you don't want that. So you put that on there and that's gonna makes everything nice
and structurally sound, just glue and brad nails. Just be really careful where
you put your brad nails so you don't misfire one. But as you can see, it's
really starting now. Put that quarter inch plywood strips on.

These two pieces are a different color because it come from a
different sheet of luan. That's the bad thing about that luan. Sometimes you get some
that looks like this. Sometimes you get something
that looks like that. It's kind of a hit and miss. So now we're gonna face
frame this thing out and we're just gonna take,
I got some one by sixes. Rip down the bottom piece it'll be a three and a half inch strip. And then the rest of it is
gonna be two inch strips. Don't know about the middle
yet, we gonna figure that out. So this quarter inch plywood
strips I actually saw the, if you'll remember the width of our upright pieces on
the edges are 14 inches.

I ripped these pieces three
and a half inches wide by 14 and a quarter inches long. And the reason I did that so we got this quarter
inch backing on there. And so if you cut them a 14 and a quarter, it'll come out, flush with the back. That way if you're looking
at this thing from the side you're not gonna see that quarter
inch plywood sticking out. You do it however you want
to but that's how I did it. If it doesn't work out just perfectly cause you wanna make
sure that front is flush when you're putting these pieces
on, you saw us use a nickel for spacing, which is about an eighth inch maybe a little less, I guess
that little gap there, so.

But if you wanna cut these
flush you use a flush trim bit on your router and do that. Let's put some face frame on it. There's a lot of ways to do phase frame. Some people will go ahead and build the whole face frame and then attach it. I'm gonna build it in place. And the way I'm gonna do that is that bottom piece is just gonna be
a three and a half inch strip of Wumba material. And we're gonna put the front on first. Nope, I'm gonna put the sides on first.

It's gonna be flush to the front and then we'll put the
front piece on, yay. Now the top and the edges and all that's gonna be a two inch strip. That's just the bottom is a little wider. Gives a little more definition. (upbeat music) So these are just the trim pieces. This is just a, you can use a one by four. This is three and a half inches wide. I ripped down a one by six,
gonna do the same thing. How we put this stuff on, is
just glue and brad nail it. And these are cut 14 and a
quarter, the same size as these. You take another board and put up here, you can press this one into
it and it gets it flush. (nail gun drilling) We'll come back and fill
these with some wood filler because we're staining,
or we're painting this. If I was saying it, I would just leave 'em because I haven't, I've
yet to find a wood filler that stains the same color as your wood.

(mumbles) (upbeat music) So I'm cutting out these face pieces. I am jointing one edge before I run them through the table saw. If you don't have a
jointer, all you gotta do is go check out my jointing
with a table saw trick. I've used it on a bunch of
videos prior to this one or I have a dedicated video just to it. I'll drop it in the description below. But all that does is get
that nice square edge.

It takes the rounded edge
off that factory lumber. And it just gives you a
nice smooth square age. So if you noticed this
edge is the jointed edge, this edge is the factory edge. It has a little bit of
rounding right there. That way when these two
pieces come together, which is mainly what I was after, when these two pieces come together, then it's gonna be a nice tight seam. If you don't do that, and
you have that rounded edge you're gonna have that gap in there and it's not gonna look all that great. This piece will be What's up girl how you doing? So this piece is two inches. And you want this piece to
show, look the same two inches, then you'll have to rip this piece down to an inch and a quarter
because you'll have that three quarter inch piece here
that it's buttoned up against.

That'll give you a two inch look here and a two-inch look here,
it'll all look uniform. So right here what I'm talking about I got this two inch piece
cut already to the size. It should be snug, but
it shouldn't be so tight that it feels like you
have to force it in there. You should be able to move
it around a little bit but it should be snug and
all the gaps and stuff should look tight. Now, if they're not, you can
always, if you're painting this go back with some wood filler or CA glue whatever you would like to
use, fill those holes up.

So if I do have any gaps, I'll do that. This is that two inch piece. It should be flush with the bottom, it should be flush with the
outside of this piece here. This inch and a quarter strip
will go in here like this. We're gonna glue and
brad nail all this in. But when everything comes together, this will be a two inch
piece looking from the side.

This will be a two inch
piece looking from the side. So you've got three quarters of an inch. You got an inch and a quarter, that makes that a two inch wide. (upbeat music) we got the boss coming to
decide how we wanna do this. This is a two inch strip,
this is a one inch strip. I'm wondering if we wanna go wider here. She wants that thinner. Here she comes, need your opinion. Would you marry me? Here forth, marry her. So this is a two inch
piece to match this, this. This is a one inch piece. Do you want that one inch
strip for the verticals with two inch strips here and here? Or would you prefer the two inch strip? – I like the one inch going vertical.

– Okay, with two inches here? – I don't know put that
one inch back, probably. (mumbles) I wanna see another two. Do you have a one inch? I think I want a one inch
vertical and horizontal. Yeah. Yeah. Look at that one. Well, Golly, you sure
that's what you want? That what you really want? (upbeat music) These things look good. This thing, this is spruce,
in case I hadn't told you. I'll just cut these into one inch strips 'cause that's what Mrs. 731 wanted. One inch on the inside frame,
two inch on the outside frame.

Of course the bottom's a
three and a half inch strip, it gives a little more definition. I'm gonna putty and paint,
or put putty and sand all of these holes. these
pinholes nail holes. So that when we paint, everything is nice and smooth
and it looks really good. One thing I do have to
do is cut some slots for my tabletop fasteners. If you haven't seen me do that, go check out last "Farmhouse
Coffee Table Build." I go into good detail on how to cut those. Basically you take a router
with an eight inch straight bit cut those slots with an edge guide, gives you something to
mount your tabletop with. So the plan is to sand
this, take it outside, get it primed put the primer coat on. And then build the table top
while the primer's drying. Kinda two birds, one stone scenario. Oh, I centered these up. I don't know if you
saw, combination square, I just got it to where it was the center. It looks like about an eighth of an inch, little less than eight on each side.

And I would hold it in,
make sure this is centered and also made sure everything
was nice and square while I was doing it. That way, the seams fit together nicely. This face framing was out
of two 10 foot one by sixes. And I had a couple of
small pieces left over. If you do your cutting,
right, it'll work out. If these are gonna be
any wider than one inch, then you're gonna need an extra board.

So if you wanna make these two inches, instead of the one inch, if
you like that look better, get three, one by sixes. Tabletop fasteners or Z
clip, has a hole in one side. This piece goes into the slot
we're fixing, to cut this. Screw goes under from
underneath into the tabletop. This allows for wood movement
in and outside of the side. Now where your top don't split. If you pocket hole, screw
it in there rigidly, it doesn't leave room for
it to expand and contract. It can't breathe, gotta breathe. The way I set these, got an edge guide. I set the depth that the
slots gonna be in like that. And then I take the edge guide. If you don't have an edge,
I've heard people use biscuit.

I've heard some people
use biscuit joiners, you can do that, but I just
lay this little dude on there, and slide this edge guide
in until it matches the dip. (upbeat instrumental music) So I'm gonna be using star
bond medium thick CA glue to fill these little nail
holes as well as any gaps. I don't see a whole lot of gaps. But if there is one that has a little gap, I'll fill it with this stuff. You just put it in that little gap. Spray this activator on
there in 30 seconds it's dry.

It can be sanded painted, It's
not stainable, I don't think. It's durable, durable than the wood putty. So you don't have to
worry about this cracking and coming out later,
it's really good stuff. I have a video on this, if
you wanna go check that out. just "731 Wood Work CA Glue,"
you should be able to find it. If not, you know where to
look, I'll put it down there where I'm not supposed to
say, in the description. So what I did do, what I did do is I got
a little nail punch.

Any that were not set in, I went back with this little nail punch. Like this one sticking
out right at the surface. And we'll put that little
nail punch right on top of it. (hammer clangs) That drives it on in there. And then that way you can feel that hole. If you don't and you leave that nail a little head shining out
out, when you paint it that's where your paint's gonna flick off. And you don't want that. So any that you see go
over the fine tooth comb, find the nail hole and set
them with a nail punch. (upbeat instrumental music) Any non holes you have, you can fill that with that CA glue in these gaps. I went ahead and filled up a
bunch of these little seams even though they were really tight. I wanna go ahead and fill that up as much as possible with that stuff. Even on the face or on the
top side of these pieces where they come together, you can barely see a little line there.

Went in and put that in there. We'll sand it smooth on, when I'm sanding, I'm gonna take the edge or
the sander and just kinda just knock the roof or the
sharp edge off of these pieces. That way you don't get any splintering. And it keeps, it'll give that
paint something to stick to other than that sharp edge. If you just leave it real
sharp, then that paint may chip there later on down the line. So now, we sand. (upbeat instrumental music) Looking good, Powerbeats Pro. Isolate that sound, you can't
even hear yourself sing. Sometimes that's dangerous. So I went back and a couple
of places that the CA glue didn't get down in that hole, I did go back and put some
putty on there, so I cheated. You saw me use that leaf blower and that just blows all the
dust off from the sanding and the building and all that.

I just wipe this down with a damp rag and then fix it put some primer on it. (upbeat instrumental music) A couple of real quick things
before we start painting. You see that line right there. I'm sure on the video,
it looks like a gap. That's just where I filled
it with that CA glue. And then of course you see
here where I've sanded off a little bit of that veneer because this and this
weren't exactly flat. And now that it is flat,
you, once that's painted you won't be able to see that,
you see it down there too. A little bit of that veneer because that was a
little higher than this. It is now perfectly flat. And even I'm not worried about that.

If you were staining it, then you would need to worry about it. On the backside, If you're
building this for yourself you'll see where you've layered
in that shiplap right there, the faux ship lap. So we've got our one by we got our shiplap and
then there's a gap where this didn't fit perfectly
square, but it doesn't matter. It's all glued and squared. Look at the other end, I got two holes cut because I got an air vent that's gonna be under
there blowing air out. I don't wanna cover that vent. On this side everything
fit together nicely. So we got, our one by, we got
our shiplap and then the back. So you can kind of see what it's supposed to look like on the back.

We're fixing to prime this dude. This is premium wall and wood
primer from Sherwin-Williams. The manager at Sherwin,
Mr. Dale recommended this to go under that ProClassic
that we're gonna use. So this is what we're fixing to spray. And I'm using my HomeRight
Finish Max sprayer. I've had this thing for about three years. So if you wanna go check
out the review on that it's about three years
back on the channel. And as you can see, it's
got a lot of paint on it. I have used it on a tons
of projects and for this type of work, these types of
projects, this works great. Now it's not a $300 Fuji,
$400, $500 Fuji sprayer. It's a $100 HomeRight sprayer.

So expect those results, but
it does a really good job for what you pay for it. We're gonna lay down
about two coats of this. I'm gonna put down, obviously
one coat, let it dry. And then we'll put down
in the second coat. I'm gonna this in out there so that I don't make a mess.
(upbeat instrumental music) So i bought two 10 foot two
Bates to make the top out of. This is just common
yellow pine number twos, number two grade.

I'm really not happy with
the boards I've picked out. This is all they had at the local store and oh my goodness, are
these things expensive. 30, It was almost $40 for two
boards, freaking insane, man. It's just insane. So what I'm gonna do,
I'm gonna hand cut them. I know that my tabletop is
going to be 57 and a quarter, total length overall. Which is four foot nine and a quarter. And that's gonna give us a
half inch overhang on each end, and then it's gonna be 16 inches deep. So that's gonna give us a half inch overhang on the front and back.

What I'm gonna do is I've
taken these two by eights and I've already cut them
one inch longer than I need. So they're actually 58 and a quarter. That way we can square those ends up once everything's assembled. Join one side rip them to size 16, divided by three, whatever
that comes out to be. This is the DeWalt Mobile
Pro App check this out. Got a calculator on it we can just do, so we just do 16 inches divided by three equals five and five
sixteenths of an inch.

That's how wide each board needs to be, five and five sixteenths of an inch. So I'm gonna join them and
then cut them down that size, five and five sixteenths of
an inch each, jointer first. If you don't have a jointer, you can check out my jointing
with a table saw method. I've done it dozens of
times, it works pretty good. (hiphop instrumental music) Got that put together just
pocket holes and glue. It's pretty flat. Actually, I was a little concerned that it wasn't gonna be flat enough but I had to, man I had
a face joint that thing. And I actually forgot all
about the fact that I could face joint those boards with that jointer and make them flat because
they had a little bow in them, and they worked pretty good. So now I'm gonna cut this to length, 56 What was it? What was it Nongi? 57 and a quarter is the top length.

I'm just gonna cut about
a half inch off each end, just so that each end is squared up. And then we're gonna do this. Use this three-eighths inch Roundover Bit. It's sticking up just a little bit, it gives it a little
profile, like you see here. It's a really nice looking
feature that you can do with the Roundover Bit. This is a white side Roundover bit. It's really sharp, and it's
brand new so it should cut really well, especially on soft pine. (hiphop instrumental music) Minwax Pre-Stain Conditioner. If you haven't seen my video
on this go check that out. This stuff is magic in a can, especially if you're using it on pines and softwoods like that, spruce. This stuff will make all
that blotchiness disappear. It's really, really works,
I really believe in it. I use it on every single
one of my staining projects. It's just that good. And it's only like $12,
$15, $15 for a quarter, lasts quite a long time.

Am I even recording? Yep. So I'm gonna go ahead
and put this on there. We'll let that set about 30, 45 minutes while I go put some paint on this base. And then when we come back we're gonna use some gray
stain that Mrs. 731 got. Go get you some of this. (hiphop instrumental music) Y'all wanna go share something with your friends, your momma knew. That Wahuda jointer This is the first tabletop I've made since getting that jointer.

Man that thing is… Check it. Seamless seams. Look, can you even see it? Can you see the seam right there? Man, oh man, oh man, oh man. That thing does a fantastic job. It's not, well, it did an excellent job. I messed up right here because it had a little
bit of a bow in it. And so I was jointing the
edge, joined to the edge. And it was coming out and then I just stopped for whatever reason. But it'll have a tiny,
tiny, tiny little bit of a gap right there. We're talking a 64th of an inch. Otherwise, that thing looks fantastic. And we're fixing to put this
Varathane Sunbleached on there. Once this has been on
there, this pre-stains on there about 30 minutes. So this is Sherwin-Williams ProClassic. The I'll get you the (murmurs) So if you've watched this channel at all, you know I'm a fan of this ProClassic.

It's a very durable paint, especially for furniture items and things like that. The name of that paint is Alabaster 7008. It's actually just a
touch off of pure white. Pure white is just a
shade lighter than this. This should match our cabinets, which has Benjamin Moore Advance. Yeah, Benjamin Moore
Advance in dove white. So it's kinda just a
shade off of pure white. (hiphop instrumental music) Man, does that look good? So we ended up with two
coats of that Alabaster white from Sherwin-Williams at ProClassic. We also put on before that,
two coats of that primer. Between each coat, I
sanded with a high grit, this is 1500 grit sandpaper,
and it just a sanding block. These are really inexpensive and it makes that paint a lot smoother. If you just sand between coats. Is it perfect? No, I don't create perfect
things, I'm an imperfect being as I've said bunches of times. Isn't it awesome? You dang right it is. Now that HomeRight
sprayer is not gonna leave a perfectly flat finish,
like perfectly smooth.

It is $100 sprayer. So I got a little thick right here. Imma show you my mistakes. I got a little thick right here. I should have filled
that in a little better. I got a couple of nail holes that didn't get fully filled
in before I painted. There's a little gap between
the face piece and the shelf. I mean, it's not exactly perfect. Couple of nail holes there I should've filled in a little better. Obviously i could go
back and feel those in, sand them back smooth,
touch them up with paint. If this was a customer's
build I would do that, since it's going in our home, I'm not gonna do that
because it looks really good. We like it like this, got a
little character about it.

One, another couple of my
mistakes on this build, I tried to put this right in the center and I was trying to figure on this two inch piece dropping it down so that this opening was the same as this opening. They're not exactly the same. This one's 14 inches. This one is 14 and a quarter inches. So it's a quarter of an inch off.

Where I miscalculated was this
one inch stripped right here. If I take off the one inch strip, up to that three quarters of an inch, this shelf is exactly center. So this one inch strip dropped this down one quarter of an inch. It makes it off a quarter of an inch. These two are thrown off by
also by this quarter inch piece. And then this top shelf is actually about a quarter inch
taller than these two. I don't care about that. This is in the center of these two. This is in the center of these two. Nobody's ever gonna know
that unless I told you. So there you go. If you're using my build plans they're gonna be exactly like this. So just remember that if
you want it to be different you need to raise it up just a little bit.

It's not without imperfections,
but it is a beautiful piece. I think Mrs. 731 did a fantastic job coming up with this design. I really like it and
it matches our TV stand which, by the way,
happens to be right here. And we painted this, that's my GoPro. We painted this white, Alabaster White, to match the coffee table
has the same design, on the end as the coffee bar. Look at that, got that
faux shiplap on the end. It looks really good. There's a bit of build video
for the TV stand to match. If you're interested in that
and you go check that out. (hiphop instrumental music) You know what time it is, power tip time. So the power tip for this project, on these tabletop fasteners
especially when you're using construction grade pine or
boards, they usually have a little bit of a warp or
a bow or a twist in them.

And if you don't have
the jointers and planers, you can't get it all out. Even I have a jointer and face
jointed all of these boards to the point I just got tired
of running them through there before I got most of the bow
out because it was so bowed. So one of the things I do to combat that, and so that the top doesn't have just an awful gap somewhere in it, is I use a lot of these
tabletop fasteners. I cut more slots than I actually need. So I cut them on each corner,
I cut them on the ends, I cut them on the inside of this uprights and then in every section there. So basically anywhere that
there's gonna be a gap, I have a way to pull that gap down using the tabletop fastener. Now I'm not just pulling giant gaps but if it's a little gap, a
16th or an eighth of an inch, that'll actually pull it out of there. (upbeat instrumental music) (chuckles) Man I'm telling you what.

This thing turned out beautiful. When you get finished with your project and you can stand back and look at it. And you're like, I built that,
I can't believe I made that. You can build this stuff
too, it is not that hard. If you don't think you can you're really overthinking this stuff. I'm proud of that piece. Mrs. 731 did an awesome
job designing that, and just wait do you see
how she decorates it. We bought some new decorations
to go on this thing today. We're fixing to take this in and do that.

Man I'm like well, a little
bit proud 'cause I made this. I'm telling you, man, I can't quit smiling and this thing looks awesome. (club instrumental music) All in for the lumber and the paint, we were at about $300 for materials. And then I had the
Odie's Oil as well as the Varathane Sunbleached stain on hand. So you're looking, if I
had to buy that as well close to 350, all in. So if you're gonna price this to sell, and you're gonna make a profit,
we got two and a half days building it and you're
gonna need to price it upwards of a $1000,
$1,200, in that price range to make a good, decent profit on it. And I think it's very much worth it.

This is a awesome statement
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