DIY Farmhouse Coffee Table with Storage

– This video is sponsored by Delta Power Equipment Corporation. Today, we're building this DIY
farmhouse style coffee table. I made this entire table out
of one-by-sixes, nothing else. I've ripped down the
one-by-sixes for the legs, for the X braces, for the rails, the top, and the shelf,
all out of one-by-sixes. So, that's the only material lumber-wise you're gonna need for this project. Seven 10-foot one-by-sixes, that's it. And the seventh one is just
for spare parts, mostly. How you doing? I'm Matt with 731woodworks.com. Today, we're building that table. Super simple, simple joiner
with pocket hole construction, gluing and screwing, and
we're gonna make that. It's gonna be awesome. Full disclosure, that's
not the finished product. The finished product will
be stained the dark walnut, but for the video, I wanted to catch the natural wood look of that
table before I stained it. If you're interested in
plans for this build, they'll be in the link
in the description below.

If you haven't subscribed already, go ahead and click the
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new content we've got coming. Also, don't forget to like and share this on your social media. I would appreciate it. So, if you have video ideas
or just to give a feedback on this build, let me know
in the comments below. I take the best ideas and
make videos out of those. I'm also making an end table that's gonna match this design. Check that video out. This is a super simple build using pocket hole joiner and square cut.

Most anybody can build this. Don't let the look of it intimidate you just because it's a bigger project. You can do it, I believe in you. Don't forget to check
the description below for the tools and supplies used. Without further delay, let's build this. We're fixin' to start
this coffee table project. I actually got two projects to build. He sent me a picture. He wants a coffee table
that looks similar to that. He also wants an end table
that looks similar to that. Stained in dark walnut. This first project will
be the coffee table, and then the next video
will be this end table.

He wants it four foot long, 20
inches tall, 30 inches wide. First thing I wanna do is cut my legs out. Gonna cut those. If we're doing a one-by top
and he wants it 20 inches tall, then we're gonna cut the
legs 19 1/4 inches a-tall. So, I gotta figure out how wide I'm actually gonna make those legs first, and then we'll start cutting them out.

Kind of trial and error going on here. So, just a common one-by-six. (upbeat music) The very first thing I like to do when I'm starting any new cuts is go ahead and square the end up. So, I'll just cut the very
end of this board off. So, I know that the legs are gonna be 20 inches long, or tall. I can get two legs out of one cut, or one one-by-six cut. So, if it's gonna be 20, we
know we're gonna go 19 1/4. We'll cut 'em just a
little long, a 16th long, and then that'll give me
a little bit to play with. Almost cut the wrong side of
the line, watch out there. (upbeat music) So, that's four legs. So, to make the legs, I'm gonna rip 2 1/2 inch legs, 2 1/2 inches wide. So, I'm gonna rip the edge
of the board off first using my jointing with
the table saw method. That gives this side
one good straight edge.

We'll flip that over, move
the fence in to 2 1/2 inches and rip two pieces off, and that'll give us equal
2 1/2 inch equal legs. Gonna need four of 'em. I've got two boards, we're gonna do it. (upbeat music) So, the reason I chose
one-by-sixes for this project is when you rip down these legs, these 2 1/2 inch wide legs, you can get two pieces out
of one piece of a one-by-six, and then that'll leave
you with just a tiny strip that you can just throw away or burn or make toothpicks or whatever
you wanna do with the scrap.

I'm using the Delta 262251, 12-inch sliding compound
miter saw for this project. It's a mouthful. Slide on this thing is so butter smooth. If you haven't seen the
unboxing video of that, go check it out. It features a sliding all the way out. Good cross-cut capacity
there, it slides so smooth. I can't explain to you
how smooth this thing is, and you can lock it in place for shorter or more narrow boards like I've got here.

It features the shadow line cut, so it puts a shadow on
your work, on your stock, when you come down and
it is really accurate. You can see exactly where
your blade is gonna be. Notice that the teeth are wider than the actual blade thickness, so that you can see where
the teeth are, very accurate. I really like that feature. My DEWALT did not have that feature. That can be turned off
if you don't like it. It also can be turned on by
this toggle switch up here, off and on switch. For you bevelers out there, you can flip this little
piece up right here. There's a switch in the back
on either side you flip up, it takes that positive stop off, and then you can bevel up
to 47 degrees both ways.

It has positive stops along the way. You can also cut miters
up to 60 degrees this way, 50 degrees, this way, to
the left, 60 to the right. It's just, it's a really, really nice saw. I'm very pleased with how
this saw has performed so far, and if you want to check
it out for yourself, click the links in the description below to Home Depot or Amazon, whichever one. Sometimes one has better
pricing than the other, so check 'em both out. You wanna see a full review of this saw, there's one coming in a few weeks. I'm gonna lay this out and decide how long I need everything. So, based on the picture, there's very little
overhang all the way around, less than an inch. It almost looks maybe
a half-inch overhang, and I'm gonna try to
stick with the picture as best I can.

We know that the top's
going overhang a half inch, we'll take off an inch from
the total length of this. We know we want it 48 inches. So, if you lay a 48 inch
piece out on your table, minus a half inch on each end, I'll put it at a half inch here. (wood thuds) 7 1/2 here, then all you gotta do is just move your tape
measure to the inside of that, to know that you're
gonna need a 45 1/2 inch.

You're gonna need two 45 1/2 inch pieces, and we're gonna stick
with this 2 1/2 inch wide for your rail, just like that. I think that'll look nice. When you go to assemble this, you need a good flat surface to do it, or it's gonna get all wampy-jawed on you. You don't want that. Wampy-jawed means it's gonna rock. You don't want that, so if
you don't have a flat surface in your shop or your
garage, what I used to do, before I had this workbench, because my garage floor is awful, I took it inside and laid it, flattest part of the floor I could find. You've got some vinyl flooring or hardwood or laminate like we've got. I found a good flat area, and that's where I used
to put stuff together.

So, you use what you got. Side rails, you'll need
four at 45 1/2 inches long, because you two for the
top two for the bottom, same thing on the ends, and
I'm fixing to figure out what the ends are gonna be a-now. So, we know that the ends
will be facing this way. We know that the customer
wants a 30-inch top. We know we want a half inch overhang. So, again, we're gonna
set this at a half inch. We'll set this at 29 1/2, right? So, that gives us the 30-inch top with a half-inch overhang on each side. Move the tape measure in
and just measure the inside, or 23 3/4 of an inch. So, we're gonna need four at 23 3/4. When I'm building new projects, I like to write down everything
that's gonna be going on. One thing is, I'm gonna
have some plans available for you to go download for this project. Second is, if I get another
order for a table like this, I'll have a guide and I won't
have to do all this again.

It takes long. Then, I'll just have a cut list. I'm gonna cut out the side
rails and the end rails. And then, we're gonna rip
them down the exact same way to 2 1/2 inches, and that will give us the basic frame of our coffee table. (upbeat music) Pocket hole time. So, there's a number of ways
you can join this together, and I'm using pocket holes for simplicity, speed, 'cause I want to. Pocket holes get a bad rap in woodworking, especially if you're more intermediate or advanced wood workers, they're like frowning on these things, unless you're building like cabinet faces. I like 'em, because for beginners, for beginner woodworking
projects like this, it's extremely accessible. It's easy, and they work good. Probably not the greatest,
but they work good, so that's what I'm using. Now, if you don't want to do
that, you can also use dowels, if you want to do that
to join these together.

You can use mortise and tenon. There's a number of different ways you can join this together. I personally, I like pocket holes. If you've seen this
channel from here back, you know every project has made on here, almost all pocket holes. So, for the side rails and the end rails, which is what this piece is,
we're drilling pocket holes. We're gonna use an inch and
a quarter pocket hole screw. So, we're gonna drill
a 3/4-inch pocket hole. When you buy this, it comes
with a guide, I think. If not, it's on the Kreg website, what size hole you need for
the screw size, material size. I'm just gonna center it up and I'm gonna drill two
pocket holes on each end, on which piece I think's
gonna be the inside. Whatever looks best on the outside, I'll drill on the opposite side.

We'll center these up and start
knocking out pocket holes. I gotta Kreg bit comes with this K5. I highly recommend the K5 over the K4. K4 has the clamp in the back, you have to reach around. The K5's in the front. K5 has these extension wings. I just put this on a piece of board. It comes with everything you
need to make pocket holes. Link in the description below to this K5. I highly recommend it. (drill whirs) So, I'm drilling pocket holes. Those look a little too far outside, so on this side, I think
I'm just gonna go with these two closer ones and
just center it up on there. I think that'll be better. (drill whirs) I like that better. I'm gonna go with that method
versus the wider method. (upbeat music) So, I actually think the best
idea, sometimes I'm wrong, but I think the best idea would
be to make the ends first, because these two pieces
will be flat together, versus this 90-degree
angle coming in here.

So, that's what I'm gonna attempt. Would glue, pocket hole
screws, and a Kreg face clamp. One of a kind glue spreader, if you have one of those. A Kreg face clamp is
extremely useful here. If you don't have one or
any face clamp like this, I highly recommend getting one. The main thing you're
gonna be worried about is right there. You want that bottom edge to be, or the top edge, once it's
flipped over, to be flush. The face clamp should
hold everything nice, flush on the sides. Once everything is in line, you can just roll it over
and put two screws in.

You don't wanna overdrive
these in these one-bys. You'll wind up messing
up and breaking one. I got the impact for your drill, set it on the lowest setting. So, everything's snugged up. That's good, you can let it go. Same thing on these legs. You're gonna make sure you're putting the best
foot forward kind of thing, even though you will be able
to see some of the outside, or the inside of it. (upbeat music) So, that's one end. Do the other end exactly the same way. (drill whirs) So, now it's time to
put the side rails on, so these are just some Pittsburgh clamps.

I got 'em at Harbor Freight. They're very inexpensive. They're five-foot clamps. That's gonna help you
a whole lot right here. If you don't have 'em, you can hold everything in place while you screw everything
down, but they would be helpful. The best thing to do is
go ahead and put glue on both ends of this
board, of your long rail. Put the other rail over on the other side, just for a spacer. It doesn't have any glue or
anything like that on it. And then, I'm going to line everything up and try to
get this thing pretty close. The good thing about when
you use these type clamps, they're not the greatest
clamps in the world, but they'll hold everything in place while you get some screws in there. You want to make sure
that it's flush again, like on the sides. (upbeat music) Certainly wanna be careful
driving these screws through this way, or you'll actually break through
here if you overdrive 'em. To make life easier, I'm just
gonna spin this thing around. We'll put the other side on.

(drill whirs) So, I'm not real sure why it's this way, but you see these pieces are offset. The bottom is maybe two
inches off the floor, where this one is maybe two, three, 3 1/2 inches off the floor. It's to the top of that one. Bottom of this one goes
to the top of that one, so I guess that's what we're gonna do. Good tool to use to mark two inches is this combination square. Just move it down to two
inches and tighten it up. I'll take and make a mark. I'll glue, clamp, screw this in place two inches from the bottom. I will check that with my tape measure to make sure it's actually two inches, and then we'll put the side rail in.

It's gonna be a little taller, or a little further up. (upbeat music) So, this is the basic frame. It's really lightweight. I mean, it should be very
lightweight right now. We're gonna go ahead and
add some bracing in here, because it's gonna need it with
the type of wood we're using and how lightweight everything is, and it ties everything together. It makes everything more stable. We're gonna put the X pieces in also, but first, I wanna put
in at least two braces, two up here, two down here. They should be the exact same length. You don't wanna take the
measurement out here, in case the boards are warped
or there's a bow in them. You want to take them at the
ends, where everything is. So, we're looking at 27
3/8 of an inch, tight.

That's gonna be a tight fit, 27 3/8. I wanna go down here and
make sure it's the same, or very, very close. That's 27 3/8, so I know that
I'm going to need four pieces, 27 3/8 inch long, so I'm gonna cut two one-by-sixes 27 3/8. We'll rip them down into
two-inch strips instead of 2 1/2. Also note that, on the picture, this end board is up
higher than the sideboard, so I wanna keep that
look for the customer, 'cause this is what they want. So, this, from the bottom up on the side rails, is two inches. From the bottom up on
the ends is 3 1/4 inch, to the bottom of this end rail
to the bottom of the foot. So, I'm gonna cut. We'll cut out these pieces and we'll start installing, 27 3/8. Just seems like there's
something missing on this saw.

Yep, that's definitely it. That should come from the factory
like that, don't ya think? On a build like this, it's imperative you have good square cuts. That's gonna make everything
fit together nicely. All those joints are
gonna look nice and tight. Everything's gonna look really nice. So that's where a good saw comes in. This Delta is really good at that. Out of the box, everything
was nice and square. (saw whirs) So, I got my cross braces cut out. I took the total length
of this measurement here on the inside, which was
like 45 1/2, remember? And then, I divided that by three, and that gives me three equal
sections, one, two, three.

Putting two cross braces in, I'm gonna have one here, one here, and now you see the
three, one section here, one section here, and one section here. So, that gives you three sections. If you was only putting
one cross brace in, of course, you could just divide by two, and then you would just
put it in the middle. We're going two braces,
we're gonna divide by three. If we was going with four braces. I'm just gonna glue and screw. I went ahead and cut these the same width, just to make everything easier. I want to get everything
in there lined up. I made mark at 15 and three, 15 3/16 of an inch is what
the marks was from each end. That puts them equal, and then that gives an equal space here. Because these are three
quarters of an inch thick, I just marked a line on
the top in the center. I'm gonna line that up with
the mark on top at 15 3/16.

Still gives everything equal spacing. It doesn't really matter
if it's perfectly equal, because it's gonna be underneath, and you're just gonna be
attaching the tabletop to these and the shelf on the bottom to it. It's just for bracing. Not making a clock, so if it's not perfect,
don't worry about it. Clamps are gonna be your best friends, even if you have to buy
cheap ones like this. This is a Harbor Freight. I don't remember what they cost. They're very cheap, but they
hold everything in place while you get everything screwed down.

Glue and screw. Like this, just kinda get it close, and then you just start
snugging this clamp up. The clamp is only so that you
can hold everything in place until you get it screwed in. The only thing that's
really imperative here is the top is flush. You want your tabletop to sit flush. You don't want it to have a bump there. I'm gonna put, I've got this snugged up. I'm gonna put the top screw in, make sure everything's square,
and then put the bottom. (upbeat music) We've got our basic frame. I'm gonna do the X feature next. We're only gonna go ahead and just sand everything right now to 120, then do the X's, because once
you get the X brace in here, it's very difficult to get
this inside frame sanded. One thing you may want to, you may not want to, depending
on what you want to know. If you want to check
the square of something, rectangle or like this,
if you want to check and make sure everything's
even, you got a tape measure.

If you can get it to hold on the corner, or if you get somebody to hold it for you, measure across diagonally. This is 55 1/8 inch across, and then you can do the same
thing to the other diagonal, 55 1/8 of an inch, so I
know that it's square. If it's off or racked in any
way, then it's out of square. You're gonna try to fix that from here. It's gonna be difficult, and
what's likely has happened is some of these cuts that
you've made were unsquare or off. So, that's why it's very important, if you can get a miter saw or if you can make good square
cuts with your circular saw, this is gonna be very important
for something like this so that it's not out of whack.

Now, if it is out a little bit, you know, a 16th or an 8th, nobody's
gonna know but you. Just put the top on. It's probably not gonna hurt anything. If, for some reason, this thing is wobbly, this one isn't. Good, 'cause I have had them
come out a little wobbly. If, for some reason,
it's rocking on two legs, when you get something
that spans this distance, it shouldn't rock, because it
should have enough give in it at this point to hold it down. But if it is, you'll have
two legs that are touching and two legs that come up off the thing, so you're gonna pick one of
the legs that are touching, start trimming it off, either with a saw, or probably the best way
to do it is take a sander. Sand a little bit, and then try it. Sand a little bit and try it until all four legs set flat.

Sand, then we'll do the X brace. Very simple to do these X braces. If you've watched this
channel anytime at all, you know how I do 'em. Gonna do 'em the same way. (gentle pop music) So, I got that thing sanded. If you could find somebody
else to sand for you, I recommend doin' that,
'cause I don't like it. Time to put these X braces in. This is an inch and a half
strip of a one-by-six, so I just cut these a inch and a half, because in the picture they
weren't as wide as these pieces, so I just cut 'em an inch. So, I'm gonna make that
the angle goes to the, don't know, what does
the picture look like? As you can see, the Xs are more narrow. They go to the sides
instead of to the bottom, attached to the side,
that's what I'm gonna do. It'll also make for a less steep angle. So, little quick clamps
like these really help.

All you gotta do is eyeball
it to the corner, clamp it, and both corners line up, and you take your pencil, just draw a line to the edge of the board. That'll give you your
length and your angles. I've got the length on both ends. I've got the angle I need to cut. I just take it over to the miter saw, change the angle, make the cut. And I like to cut them a little long, and then slowly ease
back up to that angle. This thing is so easy to change angles on. Simply just unlock this, this screws to the right and locks it in. So even if you push
that, you can't move it. Screws to the left unlocks, push that button and move
to the angle desired. I'm gonna eyeball this angle.

It's got a positive stop here at 22 1/2. I'm gonna make this cut,
'cause it looks close, but I may have to adjust it. One very important thing
is to check those fences, that they're not gonna
get hit by the blade. (saw whirs) So, that's pretty close
to that angle right there. We'll sneak up on it a little more. (saw whirs) Now that I cut that line, it looks like it's gonna
be just a little close, so I'm gonna move it down to 22 degrees.

We'll move this other end down
here, and we'll cut it long. Then we're gonna sneak up on it. I still feel like 22
degrees is not too much. I'm gonna bring it back to 21. That's what you should look like. This is a 21-degree angle, so that's gonna be our angle there. It was like 21 1/2, and you can see there's a tiny bit of gap in there, like very, very, very, very, very tiny.

Once we stain that and
I get this flushed up, you probably won't even see that. A 21-degree angle is
what we're looking for. Now, we have to cut this piece. (gentle pop music) So, I still went with
the 21-degree angle here, and then this is actually
a 47-degree angle, is what this winds up being. If you make a table this size
with an opening this size, and just, I just cut 'em to length. I marked 'em, snuck up on the cut, and everything looks like
it's gonna fit together. I'm just gonna glue these in. These are not structural,
they're for looks. A wood glue should hold
'em just perfectly fine. That's what we're gonna do. You may wanna sand all this first to get off any rough edges. (gentle pop music) So, I'm just gonna flush that up, make sure the sides are flush.

Sometimes these boards
can be a tiny bit thicker than what you've used if
you've got a new board, so if it is, you're gonna sand that flush whenever you sand the rest of it. Main thing is we're
just gluing everything, make sure everything looks nice, and then we'll put this top piece in, because its gravity is
gonna hold it in there. And then, we can put
a little pressure here and clamp to the top. Let that glue set, and then
we can remove the clamp. Now, I'm just using a little
bit of wood glue on the ends. Kind of feel like it's gonna need a little somethin' somethin'. Standby. I'm gonna put just a brad nail right here. Oh, too much biscuit there. Gah lee, don't do that, bad idea. I know what I did though. I'll take and tamp this
down with a hammer, try to get that brad nail on in there, and we'll let the glue dry.

So, I thought that glue
would hold those in, and I was wrong. What I did was I just
took some brad nails, small, 5/8-inch brad nail in the top, and then one in the sides,
also one underneath. And then, on the ends I
drove two 5/8-inch brad nails on each one of those. See, I will sand that smooth. If I was painting that, I would fill those with that
CA glue, sand it smooth, but since it's being stained, probably just gonna
sand over it, and then, when I stain, it'll just
be a dark spot there. It won't look bad. It'll look kinda like a knothole. (gentle pop music) Now it's time to build
the top and the shelf. I'm going to try to make
those out of a one-by-six, cut them, joint the edges.

I have a table saw method
you can joint with. I got a new gift, that new Honda jointer. I'm gonna use that to joint one edge, and then I'll use the table
saw to cut each piece to size. It has to be 30 inches wide, so I'm going to figure
out how many one-by-six it'll take to go to 30. I know five times six is 30, so I may just cut 'em down to five inches. I think that's what we'll do. And they'll be 48 inches long for the top. I'm gonna cut the top boards out. I know I'm going to need
six boards, 48 inches long. I'm gonna cut 'em 49 inches, because once I get
everything put together, lay it on top, I'm gonna
take my circular saw and cut a straight line across each end.

That way each end is good and straight. Now, if you don't want
to use one-by-sixes, as you can do tens, one-by-four, whatever you wanna use for the top. You can use a sheet of plywood. You can take a sheet of plywood
and cut to fit this bottom and make it that, and then put
some edge banding on there, or cut some 1/8-inch strips
and put on the edge of that. That'll work perfectly fine. Just remember, if you use plywood and this one-by-six spruce,
it's gonna be stained, so it'll come out in a different color.

Plywood and different woods
will stain a different color. They won't look just the same. However, if you were painting that frame, like a biscuit white or distress it like we do on this channel,
and you stain the top and the shelf, that would look good. (gentle pop music) Test, test. All right, so I went ahead and
jointed the edges of these, and then I cut everything down to size. Each of these are five inches, so this is a 30-inch wide top. If you wanna see a complete breakdown of how I build these tabletops, I have a video just
about building tabletops, just like this, out of one-bys. I'll drop a link in the description below. You can go check that out if you want it broken down step by step. Basically, I jointed the
edge using my jointer, but you can use the table saw, just like I did in the video guide. And then, I cut them
to size at five inches.

Now I'm going to pocket
hole screw all of these, and I'm gonna put four in each board, and I just measured four
inches off of each end, and then equally spaced
them in the middle. So, you should have four per board, and then I'll pocket
hole everything together and glue and pocket hole, and then this table top,
I'll cut the ends off to make it actually four foot and all the ends are straight. May do a little round over,
I haven't decided yet, or I may just sand it smooth. It just depends. I think I'm gonna sand it smooth because of the look of this table. Pocket hole time. (gentle pop music) Got that top made, got it sanded. It's sitting on there really flat. The only problem is that
1/16th of an inch wobble that we saw earlier. This corner over here, but the tabletop fasteners
will take care of that. I'm not even at all concerned about that. You shouldn't be either if
yours is off just a little. Gonna make that.

So, it's like 4:15 my time,
Central Standard time, South Arkansas time. I gotta go cook supper, but tomorrow I'm gonna do the bottom shelf and get this ready to stain. That's all we like is
doing the bottom shelf. We're going to sand everything
one final time for 120 grit and make sure we didn't
miss any glue anywhere. because that'll mess up your stain. It'll put like a light color. You don't wanna do that. So, I got a new wireless
mic a few weeks ago. You may have noticed the audio is better. The problem is it's
wireless, so it goes dead. It's got a battery. Yesterday, it went dead
and I didn't know it. So, I'm just looking like this yesterday. I'm like, no audio. If I'm missed anything, I know that this edge here
is a little bit popped up. Not concerned about it. Those tabletop fasteners will fix that.

So, today, today's a new day for me. This, I will cut the slot
for the tabletop fasteners. If you've never seen me
do that, stick around. Also, I'm gonna build the bottom shelf. The bottom shelf will be
exactly like the top shelf. It'll just be shorter. I think it's 45 1/2, 45 3/4, what was it? Hold that right there. So, it's 45 1/2 inches long instead of 48. The top is 48. The bottom shelf would be 45 1/2 by 30. It's gonna be the same width. I'm gonna do the exact same thing. Should I show that? Maybe time lapse a little bit. It's gonna be the same thing. The only concern I have is getting that cut exactly straight, 'cause, because right there, if it's not straight, you're
gonna be able to see it. So I've got to, I'm pretty
sure it's not gonna be exact, but I'm gonna try to get it very close. That, that is a tabletop fastener, kind of, or some people call them Z clips. This is a Rockler tabletop fastener. I'll drop a link in the description below, if you want to pick some up.

The way I cut the slots for 'em, so the way they work is, if the tabletop is
gonna go on top of this, tabletop fastener will
slip into that slot, and then, you will screw into
the tabletop from underneath. That allows for wood
movement to left and right, for expansion and contraction,
as well as in and out. So, there's a couple of
way to cut these slots. If you have a biscuit
jointer that works fine. If you have a router with an
edge guide, that works, too. It's what I've got. This router came with this edge guide. It's rigid palm router. The way I set the depth is
I just set this on there, set it right at the edge. That's an 1/8-inch straight bit. So, that's an 1/8-inch straight bat, that's an 1/8-inch straight bit, and I just set the clip on there and then adjust the guide
until it just touches. Far as depth goes, I set it til it's about
halfway of that clip, and the reason I did that is because I'm using one-by material.

If I was using two-by, I
would go full depth on it. But because I'm using one-by, I don't wanna cut too deep
into my one-by material. I'm gonna cut slots for all
of those clips into this right now. (grunts) So how many do we cut? That's totally up to you. I'm gonna put one at each
of these in the middle. So, that's six, we know. One here, one here, that's eight, and probably one on
each end, so that's 10. Put 10 on each, 10 here. Down here, though, 'cause of
the way this is raised higher, it's not gonna be the same. So, I know that I'm gonna put
a one in each one of these, and then probably the same, six without the ones in the middle. (upbeat music) I got my Swanson straight edge again, same thing I did on that other top.

I'm gonna square this up. You want a good framing square or some type of bigger square. It's imperative that both of
these be as square as possible for putting it inside a frame like that. The bigger the square, the
better off you will be, because you've got more surface area to square everything up. All right, everything, I've measured the other end down. I made a mark at 45 1/2. The frame is just barely over 45 1/2. May give us a little play.

(upbeat music) I could use an extra set of… (laughs) Yeah, buddy. She fits. It's just a little snug on
that one corner over there. I mean, barely. I can push on it and get it
on down there, no problem. By the time everything's sanded, I think it's gonna fit perfect. Now, I gotta sand it,
and once this is sanded, staining time is all it's got left. (upbeat music) So, we're going to install
those tabletop fasteners. They install with just one screw. I'm gonna pre-drill a hole, so we're sure that it
doesn't split the wood at this process, that would not be good. So, we're gonna pre-drill a tiny hole. Make sure you don't drill
all the way through, and then we'll just install these. They're really easy to install.

So, I went ahead and made
sure my table's squared up. I got equal distance all, or my table top is
squared up to the frame. Now, these tabletop fasteners come with the hardware you need. Just slide 'em in the hole. And that, I mean, really,
they are so simple. You're gonna pre-drill a little hole. (drill whirs) And I just ease 'em down on there. There's no reason to drive,
overdrive 'em in there. They're just to hold
the tabletop in place. They do need to be snug or tight.

They just don't need to be, you know, you just don't need to overdrive 'em and wind up stripping your wood out. And the bottom shelf gets
installed the exact same way. (upbeat music) So, now I'm gonna put
this bottom shelf in, and my concern, or what
I wanna be watching for, is to make sure I don't
scratch or scuff this up when I put it in. It's easier said than done. It is a very snug fit, so
wanna angle it in there. If I had an extra set of
hands, that would be optimal. But since I don't, I don't. Kinda get it close, and
it should be snug enough that I'm gonna have to put
a little pressure over here. Not much. That looks good, don't it? Whoo! You know, this right here
is why we build stuff. It's the satisfaction of
when it all comes together and it looks nice and you like it. It feels good.

It feels real good. Then the second will be the nervousness right before
the customer gets here. When the customer picks this up, I'm nervous to see what
their reaction's gonna be. If it's a good reaction,
makes it worth it. So, now we just make
sure we center this up so that we got equal
overhang on each side. Should be a half inch,
give or take just a little. If it's off a 16th, it's all right. You believe that? I put her in there straight. Now, I'll take four of
these clamps on each corner. Just hold this in place while
I tilt it up or turn it over and attach the tabletop
fasteners from under side. If you don't have any of
these, they're like two, $3 at Walmart, very cheap, but very handy.

So, if you've been following this channel, you know I'm gonna point out my mistakes, because we all make 'em and it's okay. It's okay if you make a mistake. Don't worry, like I said in
one of my previous videos, the worst thing that's gonna happen is you're gonna roast
some marshmallows tonight when you burn this, right? I wouldn't roast marshmallows
over stained wood. Anyway, so I noticed, on
one of these cross members, so this is the outside piece, right? And it sticks up further
'cause it's 3 1/2 inches up. It sticks up further because
it's 3 1/2 inches up.

This is two inches up. I wasn't thinking about the
pocket hole being exposed once my shelf was on there, right? So, what I did was I
used a 3/8-inch dowel, glued it in there and cut it off smooth, and now you can barely see
the top of that pocket hole, where actually the plug is. Most people will never see
that, but now you know. Also, because apparently this seam here wasn't perfectly square
when I put it together, so maybe I messed up when
I was jointing that edge somehow or another, it's
got a little bit of, just a little bit of a gap right there. So, it's kind of kicked
up on this one corner, and yes, I could install
a tabletop fastener under here somewhere
and pull it down tight, but at the same time, if it's gonna be rolled up and
I pull it down with pressure, then that pressure, at some
point, it's got to relieve.

So, I'm just probably gonna leave that, because from back here, you can't see it. From the angle most people
are gonna be looking at it, which is up higher, you're
not gonna be able to see it. Some of these angles aren't perfect. That's pretty good. This one's a lot better. See how tight that angle is, and this one's just a
little off, down here, but if I had been painting this, I would have filled that with CA glue, sanded it smooth, wouldn't
even see a seam there. But since I was staining, I left it, because I knew that dark
stain will get down in there and color that a dark
color, which is fine. (gentle pop music) If you enjoy this channel, there's a few ways you can show support. First is watching more videos.

That helps the channel more than anything. If you want shirts, we have
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