DIY ADVANCED Flemish Twist Bowstring Making — (How to properly make a flemish twist bowstring!)

– Hey, welcome back. Today I'm gonna show you how these Shatterproof
Archery bow strings are made. So if you're interested in how to make a high quality
Flemish twist bowstring, or if you just wanna know how we do it, this is the video for you. Do you have your computer? I left my computer at home and I need you to give me a bowstring to make for our customer. – [Friend] I got you. This is Jeff. Green and black, B55. – Okay. – [Friend] 48-inch with a 52-inch JMO, so 48-inch bowstring. – 52-inch recurve. Okay, sweet. My goal today is to make the
process of building a bowstring extremely easy to understand. I've taught many people how
to make a bowstring before. And there's three things
that are normally the trip up to making a bowstring. The first is to get the
proper bowstring length. The second is the fadeout and splices, and exactly how to do those properly.

And lastly, we've got the back twist. If you can nail those three things, you're gonna have an awesome bowstring. Bowstring jig or no bowstring
jig does not matter. I'm gonna show you how to do it both ways. Plus a bowstring stretcher
or no bowstring stretcher is completely fine. I'm gonna show you how to do that as well. And upfront, I don't
wanna hide anything here. Yes, I definitely have, Shatterproof Archery, as my company, where Flemish twist bow strings are our most popular product. We also sell D97 bowstring material and B55 bowstring material, serving material, bowstring wax, and everything you need
to make bowstrings, as well as the bowstrings themselves. In the past week, here are a couple of
things that some customers have been saying about our bowstrings. This one's a YouTube comment. "Yeah, I've only had positive
experience with the strings I have ordered from you. I love that I can custom
color them to my liking.

I plan to order some spools in the future. I told the guy at the local
archery shop about you. And he said that I should
order as many Flemish twists as I could, because they are the best strings and many are priced for a lot more. So to all reading this, we can get a great product
at the right price. Kramer, thank you again for
your positive attitude." I'm telling you this sort
of stuff just lights me up. Kaz also just told me he
got a pretty sweet email. So he's gonna read that real quick. – What is up, everybody? Kazden here. And I just got this note from Chris that I am going to read to you guys. "Kazden, just got the strings. They are perfect. The Oneida loves the Flemish twist. I used to shoot with a TruBall Fang. And now it's going back to finger setup.

The strings I was using
felt stiff and sharp. I hated even to test
pull them with my fingers during tuning or to place on a vise. Your string has the proper thickness. It doesn't cut through
or pinch the tab at all. It's so quiet with the
beaver strips on it. My other strings required
an entire wool sweater tied to the top and bottom
of them to shut them up. Excellent work. The recurve strings are spot on too. They feel like totally different bows. The brace heights are
back to normal ranges. They're so much fun to shoot again. I had no idea that the D97
would make so much difference. Arrows leave the shelf in a hurry. I truly thank you. The deer will not, but I do. You've given me five more
yards in range at least. Oh, and the arm guard is great, perfect size and just the
right amount of pliability. It's handsome and is definitely
a well thought out product. You've got a lifetime customer here. Thanks so much, Chris." Chris, thank you so much. – As I'm here, another comment, this one's from The Unique Outdoorsman.

"I have two of your strings, looking to purchase more. Fantastic quality and performance." And I just gotta say, this
is why I do what I do. This is why we make strings and made this more than a
YouTube channel into a company. And it means the world to me that you're here watching this right now. I know this is a slow start to the video, but I just really wanna take this time and thank every single
customer who's purchased, to thank every single subscriber, and every single viewer for watching, It really has given me a lot of purpose to be able to serve you, so just thank you so much. Know you're making a
difference in my life. All of these little comments, I see it. Every single email, I don't
read them individually, but Kaz reads them and
he voice messages me. Because of my dyslexia, words aren't as good or is
easy for me to go through.

So I get a lot of things through audio. And so all of that little
stuff really does encourage me. It really means a lot. And I just can't thank you enough. So just thank you. (static buzzing) Today I'm gonna give you all the secrets of how we make these both strings. In the end, it's not too
difficult to understand, but it does take repetition
to get good at it.

Let's jump into it. Today we're building a bowstring for Jeff. He ordered a 48-inch B55
black and green bowstring. You may see a lot of
people use a bowstring jig. The reason for that is
literally just for speed of making a bowstring. I did make a video three years ago or so on how to make a bowstring jig, but all the purposes for it is
to get the strands staggered. That's all it's for, to
get the strands staggered. So if you don't have a jig, take your bow string
length, add 20 inches to it, and then cut all 14 strands
out of that at the same link, and then just stagger those
strands 1/2 an inch to an inch, and you'll be good to go. The reason we stagger that
is so that on the splice, when you're Flemish twisting
the bowstring into place, it gradually fades out and
doesn't drop off immediately. It makes for a better looking and a better performing bowstring. For today, I'm gonna use my jig, and since we have a 48-inch string, I just put the dowel in the 48-inch spot and start winding out the bowstrings.

Now, with B55 and D97 we
make 14 strand bowstrings, so that's gonna be two bundles of seven. Now, again, if you do
not have a bowstring jig, you can make one, if you plan on making five
to 10 bow strings or more. If you don't plan on
making that many bowstrings or that often, don't worry about the jig, add 20 inches onto the
length of bowstring you want, and you'll be good to go. All right, this one is
wound all the way up. Then we're just gonna
cut it up the center. And this is what I'm
talking about right here, how all those ends are staggered. That's the goal, to get all the end staggered. And so when you make your bundle of seven, just pull each one down
to stagger the ends, and that's all you need to do, that's what the jig is for. At this point, we'll grab
the Perfect Bowstring Wax. And you wanna really lather it on there. Now, most bowstring material,
especially from BCY, is prewaxed, but from their machine, some of it's more prewaxed than others.

You'll feel it real waxy sometimes. Sometimes it's not that waxy. So we wax it in and make
it into one good bundle of seven strands of bowstring. And that's gonna make the
bowstring making process, the Flemish twisting, all of that much easier. So get this highly waxed. The other benefit to waxing it real good is longevity of string. Now this is water-resistant,
waterproof, basically. And it's gonna be able to last longer if you've got good wax on it. Okay, now we're doing the second color, which is green.

Wind this up real quick. Cut your strands loose. And we will wax the
second bundle real quick. Okay, we've got both bundles. We got the black and we've got the green and all the ends are staggered. So this is our materials. This is what we're gonna
make the bowstring out of. Next you'll want to grab your two bundles and make the ends even, so they end at the same point. And you'll wanna measure
this out 10 inches. You'll pinch it off here. And this is where the
Flemish twist happens. Flemish twist basically is
twisting away from yourself and then rotating over the top. So you twist the seven little strands, which is one bundle, and then twist back. So you're gonna do this to get it started. Now you've got a good Flemish twist. There, I'm gonna clamp it off. This point, you can continue
the Flemish twist down. So with both hands, I'm gonna twist the bundles to the right, and then put your right hand
over the top to the left.

And the goal here is a
nice tight Flemish twist. And you can take your time on this. And what I would actually
recommend is to go ahead, and twist one of these up, and go ahead and untwist it. Like, you wanna practice
this twist to make it good, and then you can twist it up again. Of course, the more you
do it, the faster you get. We're gonna bring this
out to my four-inch mark. And this will be the bottom loop. So here, I like to
match up black on black, green on green. It makes for a sharp bowstring. Although it's just color preference, 'cause if you switched it, it wouldn't matter. Match these up like so, so there's gonna be your bottom loop. Something that's easy to forget
is to make these straight.

Since we spent the time, twisting it up, these ends that we're gonna splice in are all twisted up now. You want straighten out these bundles. And once they're all straightened out, you can make them with the color. The goal is to make these
two bundles of seven turned into one bundle, just like that. So wax these together, twist them up. Now you've got really,
really good bundles here. You can put the loop back over your hold, and start the Flemish twist again, and look how beautiful and
tight that Flemish twist is. This just takes some good practice, but also it's what makes a
really, really solid bowstring. So you'll continue to twist
this Flemish twist down until you've got past all the tag ends.

What do I mean by tag ends? Well, all those tapered
ends we put in there, they're gonna flow out
of the string like that. That's completely fine. And we wanna get past all of them and continue on two inches. And that's where we will stop. As you do this, you can just keep the bottom
ends from getting tangled just by unraveling them. Right here. I've got past the tag ends. So I'm gonna continue on for two inches. And then we'll clamp it off. There we go. A really good Flemish twist string. And clamp it off. All right, so now it's
time for the back twist. Now, if you picture how
we're twisting that in, the rest of this is all cattywampus, it's all twisted up.

And we have to untwist that in order to get a good straight bowstring. But if you think about, you can't only untwist
what you just twisted. You need to untwist for
the next loop as well. And this is called back twist. So the goal is when you're
finished with the string, the twist is exactly straight. This is the best way
to make a bad bowstring that looks cool, is by messing up the back twist. So I have two examples here, one with bad back twist and one with good back twist. So you can see this is bad back twist. What I mean by that is these two bundles still have a bunch of twists in it, and so they separate really easy.

They're not combined, so to speak. But if you have good back twist, it turned into one big bundle
of 14 strands of string. And so these can't separate. It looks like one solid string. This one looks like it's
two separate bundles. You don't want that. And the reason is, is
'cause there's still twists in those strands causing
them to not mate together. So I've heard it said, "Do 15 twists with your fingers and that's gonna be proper back twist." Well, it all depends on the
length of your bowstring. It all depends on how
tightly you twist it, and many other factors. So how can you get this
right every single time? Let me save your bowstring from having bad back twist right now.

And how we're gonna do that is we're gonna untwist the
bundles until it's vertical, but we're counting those twists. And then we're gonna do
that in the other direction 'cause the second loop
is gonna be the same as the first loop. And so your back twist is gonna be perfect every single time, if you do it this way, but the back to us will change depending on how long your string is, or how tight your twist was. So we've got it clamped off. I pull these strands out, and now I'm gonna start my back twist. Two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight.

Eight. Now my bundle is vertical. It's straight. There's no twist in these strands. So since I did eight, I need to do eight more for the next loop in the same direction. One, two, three, four,
five, six, seven, eight. The green strand or the
green bundle's done. Now moving onto the black one. And it should be the exact same. One, two, three, four,
five, six, seven, eight. Yep, one, two, three, four,
five, six, seven, eight. That's it. That's a properly
back twisted bowstring. The hardest thing to maybe comprehend. I hope that makes sense. But now when we do the next bundle, it's gonna untwist the
second eighth twist we did and make your string vertical, allowing those two
bundles to mate together, making a seamless, perfect
Flemish twist bowstring. Okay, it's time to do the second loop.

And we need to know where to start it. As start it as a general rule, just do one inch less than
your finished bowstring length. So the loop we've already finished, I'll set that over a screw, and then I'll stretch out
the entire bow string, and I'll pinch it off at 47 inches for my 48-inch string. And that's where I
started the Flemish twist. This second loop will be the top loop. Therefore, we're gonna make
it just a little bit bigger. That way it can slide up and down the limb when people string the bow. Three and a half inches on the first loop, We're gonna go four and a half
inches on the second loop, and that'll give you two different but properly sized bowstring loops.

And you repeat the second
loop the exact same way. So, remember, to get the twist out of that and then mate those together perfectly. Twist out of this side, and boom, they're married. They're one now. You don't wanna bowstring
that's not acting as one. You want a bow string that acts
really flawlessly together. We'll do this Flemish twist
down until we hit the tag ends, and then we go two inches further. There it is right there. We've got our Flemish twist bowstring. You'll want to double check
that your strands are straight. If you got the back twist off, redo it. Just takes a couple minutes, but you'll have a much solider bowstring. Let's check our loops to
see if we did them properly. One should be a little
bit bigger than the other, which these two look perfect.

Now it's time to twist
up your entire string. So you twist to the left, and that's gonna twist the middle section of your string together. Boom, so now you've got a tight bowstring. One of the coolest things
about Flemish twist bowstrings is it's all twisted, see? And you can pull it as hard as you want. This is not going to break
unless you exceed 400 pounds.

At this point, the bowstring is made, but it's not complete yet. We still need to stretch it, we need to trim tag ends, and we need to serve the string. First is putting it on the stretching jig. Or if you don't have one, you can just use your bow. But keep in mind, once you put the string on the bow, the string will stretch
an inch to two inches. And so you're gonna have
to twist that up later. I'd also recommend
leaving that on that bow for quite a while. Here in the shop, we stretch up to about
110 pounds of pressure and leave that for around 20 minutes. From my testing, after leaving it for 20 minutes, it doesn't really benefit it.

But for 20 minutes is a
pretty good timeframe, so generally what we do is
we get the string stretching and move on over to the next
bowstring we need to make. And by the time we get
to the stretching jig with the next bowstring, we can continue on with
that first bowstring that we were working on. The stretching jig we're using today is a homemade stretching jig. I tried a bunch of different things, but the thing that came
out to work the best was using a boat winch. You know, the kind that if
your boat's not all the way up on your trailer, you can hook it through that loop and winch that boat right up and in, and then on the other end, I just needed something I could use in order to adjust the length, and secure it tightly. With that, there is a quick note here to keep mind anything you
put that bowstring loop over, you want it to be smooth. So I've got dowel rods. In a couple places, the
dowel rods fell out. So I used some screws, but it's a smooth shaft screw.

So there's threads on the bottom. And then there's a smooth shaft
all the way up to the top. That way the bowstring's
only on the smooth shaft. Same thing, you want it on a smooth bar, or just to make sure every surface that you're putting any pressure on with the bowstring is smooth. That way there's no chance of you fraying the bowstring at all. I always put the bottom loop on this end to keep it consistent. And then I stretch it out to
around that 100-pound mark. And this is really, really tight, much tighter than your bow's
gonna be in most cases. I have had a few people want a bowstring for maybe 120-pound bow, which is ridiculous. Some people can pull back
these crazy poundage bows. But what I'll do is I'll add more threads or maybe move up to a 16-strand bowstring.

Then you can drop the size
of your serving threads, so it can still fit a
normal nock if you need to. So you can make these tougher, but these strings are very, very tough. Okay, our bowstring has been
chilling for about 20 minutes, so we're gonna go ahead
and trim the tag ends. I made a more in depth
video on the tag ends on the Shatterproof
Archery YouTube channel, if you're interested.

But, basically, those little
tag ends that came out, we just wanna trim those
with a razor blade. And we don't wanna burn them, because this is very fibrous material, and so how I say we're
doing a 14-strand bowstring, each one of those strands, you can pull all those
little fibers apart. So if you burn it, the little
fibers burn pretty quickly.

I've tried it. It doesn't work very well. You don't want diminish the quality or hinder the capability of
your bowstring by burning it. So just trim 'em. A sharp razor blade's best. As you know, I like the Lenox razorblades. Those are my favorite. Once the taglines are trimmed, I like to grab some more
Perfect Bowstring Wax and put another top coat of wax on there to seal everything together, and to also help hold those tag ends in. Now, if one of those
comes loose in the future, it's not a problem at all. Just trim it off later
and you're good to go. By rubbing your hand along the string, that friction creates heat and allows that wax to melt in, making the string have
a nice finish to it. Next, I'll release the
bowstring of the pressure, and test our length, and see how close we are to
our finished bowstring length. If you're slightly off, you can, again, twist that string up, or untwist it a little bit.

You don't wanna untwist it all the way. And if you're still off at that point, you wanna redo the string. In the end, if you have a
one to one and 1/2 twist in your main section of your bowstring for every inch is a pretty good rule. 'Cause at that point, that gives you about 1/2
inch play to untwist it, or to twist it up. So every time the black
and green overlaps, if that's around that inch, or maybe one and a half times per inch, you're pretty good to go.

From here, you can put
it back on your bow, or what you can do, put it back on your stretcher, and serve the bowstring. Now, if you put the
string on your own bow, you can grab a T-square like this and mark on your string
where your arrow rest is. And then from there, I'll go up three inches and down seven. In my case, I don't know their exact bow, but since I do make bows, I know how most of them are laid out.

And for a general rule, we
do a 10-inch serving section. That way there's more serving below than above your nocking point, so that it can protect the string, if your string ever hits
your clothes or arm guard. If you'd like an in-depth serving video, you can check that out on the Shatterproof Archery
YouTube channel as well.

(machine whirring) (string creaking) Okay, so next I'll grab
one of these little top loop stickers, and I'll put the top loop sticker on the top loop for the customer. (lever grinding) Here again we double
check the string length to make sure we just nail it
perfectly every single time. Then we're good, right there. So here, how I like to wind it up, is I'll grab right above
the serving material, wind it down, and wind it in just like that. Jeff needs this 48-inch bowstring. You bowstring and your other
products are on its way. Welcome to the aftershow. Don't watch this if you don't
wanna risk being confused. Although, since I did tell you the 100% truth about how
we make these bow strings, it's not the same for
every length and everything as maybe on a scale or a gradient. Things change depending on
the length of the bowstring. So let's talk about that now. And if you're leaving
right now, the video, that's totally fine.

I'll see you on the next one. Thanks so much for joining me. Stay shatterproof. And you'll wanna measure
this out 10 inches. Now, this part is where it
can start to get complicated, but it doesn't have to. Making both strings is on a gradient. And so if you have a shorter bowstring, you want your tag ends less.

And if you have a longer bowstring, you want them more, and that's due to the stretch, basically. So without getting into that too much, if you stick around the 10-inch mark, you're going to be pretty good. Now, if you do have a 72-inch bow string, it might be closer to 12. And if you have a 35-inch bowstring, you're gonna be closer to eight, but in between there, 10 is gonna be about the average, and you can go make a good bowstring anywhere on that spectrum. There is a gradient. We do make our strings on that, but for your bowstring, if you're anywhere in
between 50 and 65 inches, 10-inch is gonna be good for you. If that was confusing, forget it. Forget it. Do 10 inches. Now, remember how we talked
about that gradient earlier? On the splice from eight to 12 inches, you know, 45 to 70 inches, and it's on a gradient. That's the same for figuring out how much your string will stretch. Think about it, a 40-inch bowstring is not gonna stretch as
much as a 70-inch bowstring.

Also B55 is gonna stretch twice as far as fast flight. This is where it can get
slightly complicated, but do not worry, because we have play, because you can twist
your bowstring up more or less if you need to. So I'm gonna give you a general rule, and then based upon that, you should be able to get a bowstring that works great for you. With B55 and D97, one inch less, one inch less than your
finished bowstring length is where you wanna pinch
it off and start your loop.

With fast flight, I'm going half an inch less, because it doesn't stretch quite as much. And that'll be a good rule for you. If you're making a 75-inch B55 bowstring, I'm gonna do an inch and a half less. If I'm gonna make a 45-inch B55 bowstring, I'm actually going to change that to, probably, 3/4 of an inch, because it's not gonna stretch as far. So just kind of picture that gradient, and based upon on that, you can pinch it where you need to. If you don't wanna think about it, do it at an inch, and you should end up,
for most common bows, having a bowstring that'll
work perfectly for you..

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