DIY 3 Drawer Base Cabinets | Miter Saw Station pt 1

Alright I’m super excited today because we are making a huge change in the workshop. And that’s going to be converting these cabinets back here into a miter saw station. Now this conversion is going to take a lot of work, so it’ll be a multi part series. And today we’ll start by building two 3 drawer cabinets which will be the right side of the miter station.

I’m Brad from Fix This Build That and let’s get started. You may have seen me make a few cabinets on my channel. But today I’m
really going to lean in on the tips and tricks to make cabinet building go smoothly. I’m using ¾” baltic birch ply and started
by cutting up the full sheets into manageable pieces. And I think cutting it on the floor
using rigid foam is the best approach for me And on the floor you can crawl on top of the
sheets which makes reaching across the panel a lot easier. Turning 3 sheets of plywood into 8 or 9 smaller
pieces can get confusing, so I use sticky notes to label everything.

Each section of
plywood gets a number and then I list what parts from my plan I’ll get out of that
piece. And when I cut down a piece that’s already
labeled I’ll transfer the parts it contains onto a new sticky and mark it off the original
piece. I also use arrows to show which edges are
the factory edges because I know they’re almost always straight and at a right angle
to each other. This may seem like overkill, but I make my
plans with a very efficient plywood layout to save on materials. So cutting a part from
the wrong panel might mean you have to buy a whole new sheet of ply to fix it.

And I’m
a natural organizer and overthinker so this tickles all the right spots for me. But now I can go to the tablesaw and with
a few cuts using those arrows as reference I get really clean parts for the cabinet sides
and bottoms. Basically what I’m doing is I always cut the panels a little bit oversized. That factory edge is typically pretty straight, but it’s pretty rough. It’s not going to work out great when you get into assembly and the connections there. So I cut it a little oversized using that rough factory edge against the fence first Then I’ll go down to final size and cut off a little sliver. And I do that so every side of the panel will have a nice clean fresh table saw cut edge on it.

And It’s going to make joinery a lot easier I grabbed two of the sides and picked the
best faces for the exterior. Then I marked the inside lower corners of each of them so
when I cut my toe kicks I actually have a left and a right with the good faces pointing
outward. I like using a combination square to mark
notches like this since it makes layout more repeatable. You can do a few setups on the bandsaw and
get repeatable cuts, but I find it faster to just knock these out with a jigsaw.

these cuts don’t have to be perfect since they’re just holding the toe kick. I jumped back to the table saw and ripped
some of the other panels to width so I could get the next set of parts We want to make sure the supports are the same size as the bottom. Because if they’re not then your cabinet will flair out and your drawers won’t fit right. There’s two better options, one if you have a stop block on your miter saw and one if you don’t. So if you don’t have a stop block on your miter saw, you can just set your support down on your piece.

And then mark exactly where it lines up. And then you can cut right on that line and not worry about any error on your tape measure The other option is setting up a stop block with your miter saw. The biggest benefit of using a stop block is getting consistent parts every time you cut it. And when I'm cutting 8 of these parts it's nice to know they will all be the same size. I always square the end first to get a fresh
face then cut the rest of the parts from the board. And even though I didn’t show it,
it’s a good idea to check that first part off the saw to confirm the stop block is right
where you want it before making the rest of the cuts. Next up it was time for joinery for the carcass.
I don’t use it a ton, but I have a Kreg Foreman on the underside of my Flip Top Cart.
You can get plans for the flip top cart from my website, but if you want a Foreman head
over to Woodcraft, the sponsor of today’s video.

Woodcraft has a full lineup of Kreg
products and you can check them out in-store at one of their 70+ metro stores around the
US. And if you aren’t near one you can browse the lineup as well as thousands of other woodworking
tools and supplies on their website. I’ll have a link below to all the tools I used
in this build for you to check out and thanks to Woodcraft for being an awesome sponsor of my channel. Alright, we're ready for assembly now and I brought over my outfeed table from my table saw Because it's actually a bit wider than my workbench. So I do plan on making my own assembly table And I would love to know from you, what are the features you love about yours. or wish that you had, because I'm designing my own and would love your input! I jumped into assembly and used my combination
square to get a consistent offset for the bottom. I love this thing and the fact it
was one of my grandad's tools makes it even better.

Nothing like a good hand me down family
tool. I secured the bottom with 1-¼” pocket screws
then flipped it around to attach the top supports. These supports will also be used to secure
the top to the cabinets later. And if you’re having issues getting those
bottom screws in place with a clamp in the way, you can always just flip it up while
you drive those bottom screws. The back supports get butted up against the
bottom and the upper support I just installed. These add a place to secure the cabinet to
the wall in two spots and make it very stable. Adding screws into the supports from the top
and bottom also really solidifies the carcass and does a great job keeping it from racking
which you’ll see later. I grabbed the parts for the second cabinet
and the second one is always easier, right? I don’t know what to say. No matter how
hard I try I always seem to have at least one blunder in every project.

But it’s kind
of a fun game now. I’m just going through every project wondering when I’ll get to
flash up the Mistakes were made banner. Am I gonna drop a panel, drill an errant hole,
or maybe slap myself in the face with a board? Who knows! Get subscribed if you want to see
what I screw up next time or if you just need a little reminder that somebody else out there
is on the struggle bus with you. Next I cut panels for the back to finish the
carcass. I checked the cabinet for square and the diagonal
measurements were within a 32nd of each other so I’ll call that good. So if you cut all your pieces square and to the right sizes Most of the time you're going to be okay.But this is a great way to check before you go into it Because if somehow you had the pieces messed up you can adjust it now.

Before you put the back on And you definitely want to do that before you start installing the drawers Because if it's out of whack it'll be hard to align The back gets attached with glue and some
good ole me nails to hold it in place while the glue dries. Once the back is secured the
cabinet is really locked into place and will resist racking during install. And before taking the carcass off the bench
I marked some offcuts to beef up the base for leveling feet. I’m not sure if I’ll
actually use leveling feet on this build since the slope of the garage is pretty severe.
I might make a full base to put the cabinets on so I can raise them up high enough to be
level across the whole 13 foot run.

But if you need them you can drill holes in
the doubled up plywood and put threaded inserts and leveling feet on the cabinets. With the carcass complete I moved on to the
drawers. There were plenty of cuts to make and sometimes you have to play a game of chicken
between finishing the cut and tipping over your camera tripod. Luckily I won this game. I cut the parts to rough width first then
cut them down to final size using that clean edge I’d made. To cut the parts to length I brought in Fred
the sled instead of using the miter saw. Wide parts like this aren’t great for a fixed
miter saw. I did the side parts first because I could
just match their length to my drawer slides.

Like before, I cut the pieces a little long
to get one square end. Then I moved the stop block in to get the
final cut and ran all the pieces through to finish up the sides. Cutting the sides for drawers is really easy because the are the same length as your slides. But cutting the fronts and backs is tricky because of undersized plywood. Okay, my on screen explanation was not as
super easy as I wanted, so let’s do this instead. The drawer fronts and backs follow this formula.
Measure the interior width of your cabinet, then subtract 1” for the thickness of the
full extension slides. Now subtract the thickness of two pieces of your drawer material and
you have your measurement. And the trick I’ve been using lately is
to make that piece just a smidge smaller like a 32nd of an inch or a millimeter for my metric

This will make your drawers slide smoother and avoid binding. After checking my first piece I worked my
way through the rest of them. When those were done I jumped back over to
the Foreman to drill pocket holes in the fronts and backs. I kinda felt like they were a bit
undecided. But I don’t know, I guess they’ll choose sides in a minute. After they all paired up, I grabbed a set
and put the clamps on them to hold everything square. I drove in the screws to hold everything tight…then
cut some ¼” plywood panels for the bottoms. For quick assembly I’m using a glued and
nailed on bottom. Just keep your nails ⅜” from the edges.

I put a chamfer on the bottom
with a handheld router to finish off the drawers So putting on the chamfers hides the plywood edge on the bottom. And make sure that those nails are set back from the edge so the chamfer doesn't hit them And I love this glued on bottom, it doesn't rattle and it's nice and strong. I gave all the drawers the same treatment
then moved one of the cabinets onto the bench to install the drawer slides. Putting the
cabinet on it’s side makes this easier so you’re not fighting gravity. I spaced the slides off the bottom using a
scrap of plywood and the measurements from my plans. If you want to build a set of your
own and want to hit the easy button and have all the cut lists, parts diagrams and step
by step instructions then head down to the link in the description to check them out.
And if you want the entire garage cabinet bundle you can get that at a discount too.

I flipped the cabinet over and used the same
spacers on the other side to get my matched slide positions With the slides installed we can put in the drawers And just use spacers to space everything out The first ones going right on top of a 1/4" sheet of plywood so let's see how this looks leaving the drawer a 32nd between the slides Gives it just a little wiggle room and it's easier for install And it's gonna slide smoother too While the drawer rested on the plywood I pulled
the slides flush with the front and secured them in two spots before removing the drawer
and adding a third screw to the back.

The next two drawers use spacers set on the
drawer below it for positioning. And I got them mounted in the cabinet. To get the drawer fronts I cut a large piece
of plywood to cover the entire front of the cabinet with the appropriate reveals around
the edges. Then I set my saw to the height of the false
drawer fronts and cut the panel into three parts I love continuous grain fronts on drawers and thats a great way to do it. And I'll stack them up here and try not to let them fall like before but you can see the grain flow through all 3 panels. and having the 1/8" kerf on the blade means I'll have a perfect 1/8" reveal between all the fronts.

I sanded the drawer fronts and gave them a
couple coats of polyurethane then prepped the cabinet while they were drying. And a word of caution here, DO NOT extend
more than one drawer at a time or lean on an extended drawer while the cabinet is on
your bench. Unless you’re looking for a great shop horror story to tell your buddies,
cause you’ll get it. After drilling mounting holes in the drawer
boxes I drilled the hardware holes in the false drawer fronts.

I like drilling them
before they get put in place so I can use the holes during mounting. Alright, i'm gonna mount the drawer fronts from the bottom up. And I'm going to use this little scrap screwed to the bottom to hold the front. And it's going to make installation a lot easier than trying to clamp everything in place. Putting the fronts on becomes an easy four
step process. First I’d align the front and get a consistent reveal on each side.
Then I held it in place and used those hardware holes to attach the front to the drawer box.
Now I could open the drawer and put two screws into the front from the inside in the holes
I drilled earlier. And finally remove the screws from the hardware holes. The technique works great and I first saw
it from my buddy Marc over at the wood whisperer. I used an ⅛” spacer between fronts to
give the reveal I needed and finish it off.

Then I could come back and drill through the
drawer box for the hardware. On the second go round I found it much easier
to work my way up one drawer at a time instead of having all three drawers installed. Plus
it reduces the chances of you getting flattened like a pancake. I cleared out the spot for the cabinet to
go on the wall, but I’m cheating a bit here. I’m going to use the top from the base cabinets
in my garage cabinet bundle. That’s because the left side of my miter saw setup is going
to get extended so I can take up this full 13’ span with glorious cabinets. And I’ll
be making a new top for the left side later. I decided to wait and shim everything together
at once when I do that. But these deep drawers are great for storing
extra supplies and are going to be perfect in the miter saw station which we’ll continue
in the next video in this series. If you want plans for this build there's a link below in the description.

I want to give a huge thank you to the people joining the members and Builders Club. We just launched that on YouTube, so check it out if you want to support the channel and get cool rewards. But we'll catch you guys on the next video in the series..

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