Hey I'm Justin welcome back to make
build modify. I'm going to make a coat rack out of reclaimed lumber and rebar. This is half-inch rebar. When you get it
from the construction supply they call it #4. That's because there's
four 1/8's in 1/2 inch rebar or four 1/8's in 1/2 inch. It's really
rusty because it's been out in the weather. I clean it up with a wire brush to make
it shiny. I'm going to mark this at 12 inches. That's the size that I chose
for my hooks, I played around with bending the hooks beforehand and twelve
inches just seemed to work out fine. I'm cutting it up and it with a rebar shear.
This is a shear and bender. It's a tool that Mason's use for doing reinforcement
for footings and block walls and things like that. There's all four of them.
need to round over the edge of the bar so that it won't tear the hats and coats. I'm just running that on the grinding
wheel there so I have a hook off-camera that I'm using to compare the bends to. So I'm pulling it off and
comparing as I bend. it's good idea to get your sample hook and then kind of
use that as a guide for the rest of the hooks. I've bent these large enough to
where I can drill holes into the rebar. So that I can get in there with a drill and run screws through them. I'm doing the center punch for the drill locations right here. I think I started with an 1/8" inch drill bit and went all the way through in both locations. Then stepped up to a 3/16" I think. I made it large enough for
the screws that I'm going to use to fasten this to the plank so
they could spin freely in that hole.
This is a deburring bit or countersink and I'm using taper head screws. They need to be tapered like that to flush out. I'm going
to coat this with a clear enamel spray paint. I usually heat up small metal
objects like this just to get the paint to dry faster. I really haven't had too
much trouble with the finish being affected.
But you need to do your own
experiments if you want try this. This is a tread from an old stairway that I
pulled from barn and I'm just going to lightly sand it and get the splinters off and kind of highlight some of the grain. Next I'm
going to use the router with a keyhole bit to establish my mounting brackets I
guess. (A location to mount screws). If you're not familiar, if you look at the
bit its shaped kind of like a screw and that's how it works, the screw goes
into the keyhole and holds the plank to the wall.
I used two coats of water-based
polyurethane on this. It's typically pretty fast drying. I think it takes two
hours. I did this overnight but if you start early in the day you can get two
or three coats on no problem. I'm not showing the whole process here
and it looks a little sloppy but I smoothed it out before I walked away from it. Here it is
the next morning. This board is 28 inches. So I measured in
four inches on each side to center the brackets and then split the 20 inches into thirds, about 6 and 5/8 or so and I'm marking with the combination square just
to give myself a guide for square for the hooks when I install them. I
didn't drill the holes in the same location on every hook they're very
close but not perfect. So I measured up from the bottom of the plank to
establish the location for the first screw so that the bottom of the hook
would be the same distance off the bottom of the plank.
I check each hook with a square just
to make sure. These are just drywall screws, (that's what I had) they
were strong enough and they seemed to work fine. And here it is, a quick easy
rebar hat and coat rack. I have the tools and materials I used for this build
listed in the description. and if you think I've earned it