Chevron Pattern Bar Stool | with Plans

there are some really cool things you
can do with plywood like creating visual patterns today I'm going to show you how
I made this barstool with the chevron pattern seat as well as how I built the
base with outward leaning legs let's jump right into it to create the chevron
pattern I'm using 3/4 inch plywood that I'll rip into a bunch of strips and glue
up on edge to get a nice clean look it's key to use premium plywood like Baltic
birch or a sanded plywood like this gs1 I got from Home Depot I ripped the
plywood down into multiple strips one and a half inches wide if you're
interested in getting the details on all the dimensions I have plans available
for this build you'll find a link to the plans down in the video's description
below I used a large speed square to align the boards and drew a line at 45
degrees and this is just to have a reference line for glue up I did the
glue up working by small sections you'll want to have a lot of glue on hand as
there are more mating surfaces than there is surface area to this blank the
one thing to keep in mind here is to make the blank no wider than your planer
can handle I threw on some clamps and let it dry overnight once it was dry I
used a chisel to clean off as much dried glue as possible as all this dry glue
can be really hard on the planer knives I could then run the blank through the
planer taking extremely shallow passes since running plywood end grain through
a planer is really hard on it I flipped the board over and slightly lowered the
blades as I went until it was smooth on both sides to create the chevron pattern
I need to cut this blank up into strips at a 45 degree angle I used a large
square again to make a reference line for the cut having a track saw on hand to
make this cut is really ideal but you could also use a circular saw with a
guide rail I'm personally so happy to have added
this tool to my shop and if you're looking to invest in a track saw be sure
to check the link in the description below this is one of the most affordable
ones on the market and it really gets the job done with that first edge cut I could now go
back to the table saw and rip the blank into strips on a 45-degree angle take it
slow here and make sure to keep all the pieces in order otherwise your pattern
will get messed up later with all the strips cut I could flip
over every other piece in order to create that chevron pattern I'd end up
with seven pieces but I'll only need six so I'll just get rid of this one time for another quick glue up this one
much quicker than the previous one you want to make sure to use a good amount
of glue here as the end grain tends to really want to soak it up after letting
it dry overnight and scraping off the excess glue I could run the blank
through the planer again on both sides once again taking really shallow passes
to avoid bogging down the planer I repeated this until smooth on both sides
and I had reached my final desired thickness the next step is to cut out a
circle but first I need to find the center of the blank I can just use the
cut line in the middle and measure in the other direction I'm drilling a small
pilot hole but not to worry this will be on the bottom of the stool
to cut the circle I'm going to use my homemade circle cutting jig I already
have it all set up here but if you want to learn more about it you can check out
my lazy susan video that's linked up in the top right corner here to cut the
circle I use an up spiral bit using shallow passes in a clockwise direction
after each revolution I lower the bit ever so slightly in one around again and
repeated this several times every once in a while it helps to clear out the
excess sawdust with a shop vac after multiple revolutions I finally made my
way all the way through and a circle was born now using a router can leave some burn
marks on the outer edge so before going any further I spent some time sanding
the contour in a continuous motion to avoid flattening any of the edges
despite using premium plywood I noticed some voids within the plies so I'm just
going to use a little glue and some sawdust to fill those in and then hit it
with the sander next I use my trim router with a roundover bit to round
over all the edges to avoid leaving burn marks especially
with plywood it's best to do this in multiple shallow passes lowering the
bits lightly on every pass until you're happy with a look then of course comes
the obligatory sanding making sure to hit all the edges as well as the top
starting with 80 grit and making my way up to 220 grit you can get plywood and
grain really smooth if you take your time and do this right before applying
finish I'm using denatured alcohol to clean the surface and remove all the
leftover sawdust it also gives me a nice preview of the final result as a finish
I'm using Osmo Pollock's oil and this is a hard wax oil mix I really love the
rich and smooth look it provides and it's becoming one of my go-to finishes
for a lot of projects while that dries I'll get started on the
stool base I'm going to use a single two-by-four if the legs and the rungs
I'm cutting the 2×4 into three sections two of these will be used for the legs
and I'll start by trimming off one edge on both boards to square up the edge
then rip them into strips just over one and a quarter inches wide
yielding four legs to get them perfectly square I'm setting my planer stop to one
and a quarter inch and running the boards through one side at a time until
the final thickness is reached and all the legs are perfectly square so this is a prototype I made and I want
to show you so you'll get an idea of where I'm going with this as you can see
the legs are sloped out Ward's on all four sides which I learned is referred
to as raked and splayed legs to achieve this style all the parts will need to be
cut using compound angles one way for the legs and a different way for the
rungs and I'll show you how in the next few steps I'll start by the forelegs the bottom
and top of the legs need to have a parallel compound angle I started by
beveling my miter saw by five degrees using a digital gauge to dial it in just
right next I swung the blade to the right by five degrees as well with these
settings locked in I trimmed off one end of all four legs as you can see I've
labeled all the legs to avoid any mistakes and so I can show you how to
easily achieve a parallel compound angle on both ends initially the a is on the
top and the B is on the front when you flip the board to trim the other end you
should see the a on the front and the B on the top
I set a stop block to ensure consistency and then cut all the legs to length I still have one piece of 2×4 left over
and this will be for the rungs I'll first start by planning it down to one
and recorded inches to match the thickness of the legs
the compound angle on the rungs is a little different than the legs first
I'll tilt my blade by 5 degrees and rip some strips 100 inches wide before
heading back to the miter saw just make sure to keep the angles parallel to each
other to end up with two parallelograms when all is said and done I decided to run the boards through the
planer keeping the same one-and-a-quarter in shedding before
heading back to the miter saw for the rungs I swung the blade back to zero
without touching the 5 degree bevel I had previously set next I trimmed off
one end of the board I labeled the top of the board with an X this time aiming
to always keep the X on top even when I flip around the board this will give a
trapeze shape to the rungs which is what we need then I just rotated the board
180 degrees and cut again until I had all my rungs cut to size
as you can see here with the side view all the rungs lean to the left
from the front you can see that trapeze shape with both sides leaning inwards at
the top all right with all the pieces cut I can start working on assembling
the base so grabbing two legs I simply rotate one of them 90 degrees to mirror
the angles and position a top and bottom rung you want to double-check things
here to make sure all the angles are on the same plane I'll assemble one side at
a time into an a-frame to figure out where the bottom rung will go I kind of
played around with it until the angles seem to line up just right and then use
the combination square with that measurement to make sure both sides are
at the same height I'm going to use dowels to assemble the base and it's
easy to get mixed up here so I'm labeling all the adjoining parts I'll
then draw a line across all the joints perpendicular to the joint
I'm sure I'm going to get negative comments for this but I'm going to use a
single dowel for each joint ideally you should use two to prevent the joint from
twisting but given the limited space I have I'm hoping the angles will help
lock the rungs into alignment here I'm using my doweling jig to make all the
holes where I marked them if you want more details on all the tools I use for
this build be sure to check out the links in the description below it's
finally time for glue up and I'm using a generous amount of glue and all the
holes as well as on the end grain to use up all the gluing surfaces that I can I
have plans available on my website with all the dimensions and cutting diagrams
if you're interested in building this for yourself you'll find a link down
below or just head over to DIY Montreal comm for details
I'll let both of these set up and then come back to finish assembly once it's
dry here I'm just taking a quick pass to
break the edges and round over the outside of each leg I then sanded
everything smooth and applied a few coats of gray spray-paint to the base an easy way to center a square base
within a circle seat is to measure the square and use half that measurement to
mark on all four sides from the center of the circle I placed a piece of tape
on those markings and use them as a guide to position the base when I was
happy with it I used some clamps to lock it in place and drilled some countersunk
pilot holes and then attached the base with four screws hey I hope you liked
this video and if you did please give it a thumbs up and if you're not already
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