Welcome back to Fix This Build That I'm Brad and today we're gonna be making a DIY loft bed for less than 75 bucks worth of lumber A portion this video is sponsored by Squarespace This bed can be made for about 75 dollars worth of construction grade two-by-fours in two-by-sixes But I actually bought two my 12 so that could rip them down into my own two by sixes in two by fours now you can get three two by fours or Two two by sixes from one 2 by 12 and the cost is actually cheaper buying them this way You can get the same material for about 60 bucks versus 75 and the wood has way fewer knots for cleaner boards to boot though. It can have some challenges I'll talk about that later, but don't worry you can just buy two by sixes or two by fours straight off the rack if you aren't a glutton for punishment like me, I started off by cutting some of the boards right down the middle and this put me a hair over five and a half inches wide Which is the same size as a two by six and when I started cutting the next board I ran into my first problem child The board started binding as it went through the saw so I immediately shut it off to see what was going on I looked at the back side of the board and it was pinching together and squeezing my riving knife in this cause of the stalling so I grabbed a wooden shim and I hammered it into the kerf to open it back up and I was able to finish the cut And when cut in half the tension in a board can release and the edge ends up looking more like a banana than a straight line Boards with the pith or the center of the tree in them tend to have more tension and this one did so try to avoid those if at all possible, I Flipped the freshly cut two by sixes over and I ripped off the rounded edge from the other side Each leg assembly is a two by six glued at 90 degrees to a 2×4 So next I cut the two by fours, which went a lot smoother.
I Took the leg parts to the miter saw and I cut one end square and I flipped them over and cut the other to final Size and one last step that is totally optional, but it gives a much better Look is to run the board's through a planer It takes off the top layer of wood and it gives it a fresh clean Look versus the off cut like you're seeing here from the original piece But you could also just sand it down to fresh wood if you don't have a planer I'm gluing up the legs in the 90 degree layout I mentioned using biscuits to help with the alignment You could also use pocket hole. Joinery here for a quicker solution I marked several lines across the edge of the boards for reference marks and then I cut mating biscuit slots in each board and these biscuits really help with boards that need a little persuasion like some of these ones that banana' Don me I Put glue on the edges and I use the biscuits to help me line everything up now Some of these boards didn't quite want to go but those biscuits really did help out All I had to do is clamp them together until I saw some good glue squeeze-out Which meant I had a tight joint.
I did this for all the legs and then I set them aside to dry overnight Why dreamed about pre dimension wood with no knots or twists. That's because that's the only place that exists is in my dreams Now the next day I came back and I cleaned up the glue joints on the legs Some of the gaps were small and I could knock them down with a card scraper or sander But some of them were a lot bigger and so I had to use a block plane and this made for a quick removal This loft beds for my middle son who's been wanting it ever since I made a daybed for his sister And I know him and his sister and his older brother can be climbing all over it So I wanted to put a heavy round over on every part I used a quarter inch roundover a bit in my handheld router and I hit all the edges of the legs And you can really see how not free The leg assemblies are and how hard that would be to find if you're buying traditional two by fours and two by sixes But on that note I don't jump in here and make sure you understand something these two might wells can give you some really awesome Lumber they can also be a huge Pain in the butt to work with so keep that in mind If you can get nice looking two by fours or two by sixes that are already there It's gonna be a lot less Just hassle and you're gonna have to worry about if the boards we're gonna go walk you once you start cutting them but if you want to put in the time and know it's gonna take a little bit more effort the two by twelves are a Great way to go just want to throw that out there because it's not all peas and carrots peas and carrots Sprinkles and cupcakes.
I don't know it's not all good. So anyway, let's get back the milling the next step I cut the parts for the bed frame from two by sixes and I went ahead and cut all the rest of The 2×4 parts I needed as well. I took them through the same milling steps as before Hitting the table saw and then the planer before going on to the miter saw to cut the parts to length Now the bed we're using is a twin size bed So I cut the two by sixes for the bed frame to fit that size You may want to check the dimensions of your specific bed Because the width on twin beds can vary a little bit from what I've noticed from different mattresses.
I drilled pocket holes in the short boards using my k4 for a quick strong assembly and the holes are gonna be hidden here when the Mattress is inside Now one thing I learned quickly is you really need a lot of space to make this project We've got long boards and the assemblies are huge now luckily I have mobile workbench and tools that I can move out of the way and get some clear space. I Used a right angle clamp to help hold the two by sixes at ninety degrees and I attached them together with two and a half inch pocket screws On the far end I use the long clamp to hold the pieces together on the bottom as well and it's made for a secure joint that went together nicely and Then I broke out the router again and rounded all the edges on the frame there It was nice and easy because I could just spin around and hit everything all from that one spot after that I cut a couple two by twos the length to fit on the inside of the bed frame These are gonna hold the slats for the mattress later on And the shorter two by twos are gonna go on the ends of the bed to join the legs and act as a ladder I stacked them up on my miter saw stand and I squared one in first Then I decide to flip the stack around play an impromptu game of Jenga and lose And if you like laughing at your ears or just laughing at mine go ahead and get subscribed I Got a little smarter with the long stretchers for the bed and just kept them on my bench and cut them one at a time Until I had all my parts ready Instead of hand routing every one of these pieces I hit the easy button and busted out my router table I put a round over on the edges and the ends of all these boards, but if you're using stock two by fours You've already got those round overs along the edges.
All you'll need to do is a little bit of sanding. I Decided to go ahead and paint all my parts at this point I don't have any joinery to work around right now and rolling on the paint goes fast and easy My wife and I put on a coat of primer and two coats of painters tape blue. That's not really the real color But it looks really like it and either way my son loves it And that's all that matters even though if it is a bit garish. Okay, we have everything painted at this point, but it's everywhere So I'm gonna cymbal these things and assemble the ends as well as put the slat holders there on the frame Then we'll go upstairs and start the final assembly and why start assembly here? Let's talk about the sponsor of this portion of the video Squarespace.
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Let's get back to the build After adding small 2×2 cleats on the inside of the legs to register the bedframe. I started assembling the head board in This one goes pretty quick and easy since the rails are on the inside of the legs I clamp down a level of my outfeed table and I used it to register the feet flush against Now then I squared up the legs making the adjustments at the top as I needed And I also put the top rail in place Unattached to make sure I would keep the right spacing from the top to the bottom on this assembly.
That's really important so that the bedframe will fit a Two and a half inch deck screws are used for all the connections here I started off just using the self-tapping feature But I later switched to pilot holes for a little bit more consistency The top two rails get screwed down and this end assembly is done in a snap Now the foot board end on the other hand was a little more time-consuming Because I'm one of the rails on the outside of the legs with no screws showing now This makes the ladder easier to climb and I think it just looks better Especially with all that work that I did rounding over those pieces.
I Raised the legs up off the table with some spacers and then I put the lower ladder rail in place Using another rail on the inside to match that bed frame with like both Now that helped place the screws from the backside I whipped up a quick little drill guide from a scrap of half-inch plywood I cut it to 3/4 inch square and then I drilled four holes in it spaced an inch from each edge This let me quickly lay the jig down on the leg and pre-drill some pilot holes. I Attached the lower rail on each side and then I decided it's gonna be a lot easier to do this thing standing upright It might not have looked it But that last part took me way too long to align to figure out being upside down and stretched across to work tables that weren't exactly the same height.
So standing it up with a rail clamped in place on top made assembly much easier here I cut a few small scraps to give me even spacing between each of the rails and I work my way up assembling the foot end In the process. I was repeating here was put the spacers in place position and center the rail clamp It tight drill some pilot holes and then attach it with screws and repeat And you'll notice I put a piece of 3/4 inch MDF on the ground and that's to try to level out any Unevenness in my garage floor, so it doesn't translate up while I'm attaching the screws And be careful when you're working with this in standing upright I almost toppled the entire thing over a few times before wising up and putting some clamps around the feet for stability This did a great job of at least Stabilizing it to the point where it wouldn't easily fall over but an extra hand here would also be really helpful Now the last piece that I had it was a filler strip It goes between the legs flush with that top rail.
This eliminates a gap That would be there between the bed frame and that top rung and that's really good Because if that gap was there, it could be a real foot grabber If you want to build your own loft bed, I do have plans available for this build There's a link down below in the description. You can go check it out Now with the major parts done. We are ready to take it up to my son's room for final assembly And this is definitely a two-person job unless you want to rig up a bunch of supports now we put the headboard in against the wall and then brought in the bed frame and Rest it on the little cleats These little cleats were a tip that I saw from Jay Bates his bunk bed video and it really worked like a charm After clamping the frame to the headboard we brought in the footboard and fit it in place as well to square everything up And on a side note I did space the legs slightly wider than the bed frame just to make sure it would fit with no issues I used a carpenter square to make sure everything look good I secured the frame to the ends with six screws into the corner with three screws on each portion of the leg The kids are really dying to see what was going on.
And how is it coming together? So they sent a spy to check it out. I see you I used the drill guide I've made earlier to pre-drill the long guard rails and Attach one on the base to shore everything up first before going up top The other four went above the bed frame with two on each side on the headboard side for these long rails I only use two screws since there's less room as that top rail is on the inside But in general I overkill this thing with screws it is really stout. So that's not going to be a problem Now for the slats I cut down some one by four furthering strips and I laid them in place across the bed frame You could also use the sheet of plywood for some mattresses. Just check the manufacturers website for their recommendation And we put the mattress in and called in the kids to check it out. They were impressed. But my daughter immediately spotted an issue We'll be replacing this open fan with a smaller one where the blades are actually enclosed for a safe measure and I would highly recommend that if you do loft bed or a bunk bed and the height that we chose for our bed was based on our eight-foot ceilings and Wanting to be able to sit up in the bed with our son to do some reading We did add LED lights underneath the bed for a little extra cool factor and some light under there while he's reading underneath Our son loves it, but now his sister wants to ditch her daybed and get a loft bed, too If you want to see some more furniture projects I got a playlist queued up for you right there.
If you want the plans for this DIY loft bed There's a link down below in the description. Go check that out until next time guys. Get out there and build something awesome.