Build a storage chest from reclaimed wood

in this video I'll show you how I made
this rustic storage chest made from reclaimed wood for this build I used
some old barn would have had up on the lumber rack in my shop for some time now
just waiting for a project like this these are tongue and groove boards about 3/4
of an inch thick I started by rough cutting all my pieces at the miter saw
cutting them close to their final length but leaving a little extra I find it a
lot easier to manage my lumber this way especially if I'm going to make rip cuts
on my table saw unfortunately most of the tongues and
grooves have from the boards were damaged during the demolition process so
I decided to cut them off I started by removing all the tongues and then flip
the boards on the other edge so I could rip them down to three inches with all
the board's I mentioned I mean the final cuts to the exact lengths I needed using
a stop block on my miter saw when you're done you'll have a lot of
wood for details on all the measurements and the cut list for this project check
out my written article I'll leave a link in the description below before
assembling the walls you'll need to make a custom spacer that's the exact same
size as the thickness of your wood to do this I use the leftover piece of wood to
set my fence then cut the spacer each wall is made up of five boards stacked
together once you find a layout you're happy with use the spacer to align the
boards and square them up I place another piece on top of the board's
lining up the outside edge with the edge of the spacer and then secure the boards
with some Brad nails and then repeated the same process on the other side
alright so here's one of the walls fully assembled I did the same for all four
walls lining up the boards with a spacer and securing with Brad nails making sure
to stay clear from the spacer before going any further with the
reclaimed wood I made a simple base using 2×2 pine wood the base will be
hidden so no need to use anything fancy here again you can find all the
measurements in the written article that'll be linked in the description
below I first made some pilot holes using a
countersink bit then I simply assemble the corners using some screws making
sure to use a speed square to get the corners nice and square it's also a good
idea to pre-drill some pilot holes on the inside of the base frame so it'd be
easier to attach later on with the four individual balls assembled building the
trunk as a matter of standing them up and making a box I started by checking
that all the panel's fit with the base then remove three of the panels so I
could attach the panel's one by one to make things easier I first put in a few
Brad nails from the outside then I screw the base in from the inside have I told
you how much I love this palm driver I repeated the same process for each of
the walls one by one first adding Brad nails from the outside and
then screwing the base in from the inside alright so this is what it looks
like when all the walls are assembled okay so next I install the floorboards I
simply laid them flat and secured them to the 2×2 base using my nail gun to join the wall panels together I'm
using these metal corner braces you could also use pocket hole screws or
other methods but I like the look of the visible hardware that being said I
wanted all my hardware to be black so I first coated the corner braces with some
black spray-paint and then mounted them to each corner with some screws making
sure to push the panels together and close that gap to make the lid I decided to use
concealed pocket screws I measured and marked on the underside of the board's
where I would make the pocket holes I then used my mini crab jig to make all
the holes I lately clamped all the boards together
then put in the pocket screws I'm adding some decorative support pieces to hide
the pocket screws and since they're just decorative
I simply nailed them into place using my brad nailer and used three inch black hinges to
attach the lid to the trunk I didn't have much of a surface so I decided to
add an extra board across the back to better support the hinges I cut the
board to size added a bead of glue and simply clamped it into place before
securing it with Brad nails next I traced out where I wanted the hinge to
sit and use the chisel to countersink the hinge so it would sit flush with the
top of the wood from this process I learned that I really need to practice
my chiseling skills after making some pilot holes I screwed the hinges to the
chest then had a little help so I could screw in the hinges to the lid you to make the handles I decided to
repurpose an all leather belt I cut out to eight inch strips using a
utility knife to attach the handles I place two strips of tape as guidelines
spacing them about half an inch closer together than the length of the leather
to create a small hump next I moved on to the latch first
finding the center of the chest and marking it up I need to make a few
custom adjustments to fit the latch and I used my flush cut saw to do this next
I simply screwed the latch to the lid and now my chest will accommodate a
padlock although really I just like the look all right almost done but before
calling this a wrap I used my standard to round over and
smooth all of the edges I also touched up all the visible screws
with some black paint I also wanted a way to hold the lid upright when open I
wasn't sure the best way to do this but I simply screwed in a piece of rope to
both the inside of the lid and the side of the chest and it seems to be working
out pretty good I hope you enjoyed this build I'd love to hear what you think so
feel free to let me know in the comments below thanks for watching

As found on YouTube

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