Barrel Chair 2.

Wilner start laying out the h brace now and the first thing we want to do is lay out the front stretcher that's going to hold the two uprights apart as part of this just kind of add some uniqueness I do put the bum hole in the middle of that one of the things to be careful about though a lot of wine barrels because it has a hole there it's weak in the wood on either side and that will crack it's okay if it cracks on one side if it cracks on both sides then becomes pretty structurally weak in fact my son who only weighs about 30 pounds sat on this one and snapped it in half so you can imagine just how structurally impaired that that would became because of those cracks they don't appear to go that and usually they don't to start the layout for somewhere new is find our center line I hopefully I may adjust that a little bit depending try to keep the bungholes close to the center as I can and then again I'm just going to use my templates that I copied off the plans that were include that I purchased and put on a tracing paper I'll just lay that out and Mark out the key points I'm not worried about the overall length I'll trim that later after I get my final when I get the uprights on but we'll lay out the inside marks right and then there's a cutout to curve out for the curvature of the seat and this is kind of just a reference and I'm just going to kind of scratch this in real quick because it is going to change more based on the way I made changes to the changes I made to the chair itself we are now ready to take this over to the bandsaw and we'll do a rough cut we're going to do a quick cut out just right along here to remove that material and we'll do the rest of the shaping with a with a belt sander getting ready to cut the uprights for the H brace once again I just use a template that I made using the plans that that came with it I have my chop saw set up one of the things I can't do though is just set this on the on a chop saw bed and then cut it because it is curved so I do support it first of all I want to support the full length width with a little pine board here and then I put a used barrel state this is one I be kind of plugs out and I'll set that on there to support it after I make the cut so that it doesn't bind up in the saw and the other thing is because it is tapered on both ends and that in the middle I'm going to make sure that I pull it away from the end of the board just a hair bit before I make my one quick tip don't throw away any of your scrap because you'll be using them to cut the plugs to fill all the screw holes that countersinks that you've made when you construct to the channel we're not ready to assemble the H brace we're going to use pieces that we marked earlier and cut to length you have a marked with a top knot on top of them I'm going to temporarily install this call that I've attached to work the reason I need to do this is because they are curved and when I attach the the crossmember I want to make sure that it's going to follow that curve and also keeps us this is the the plane it will be sitting when it's completed the next thing we do is make a line across here at 13 inches and this is one of the places where I deviate from the plans because I found that this dimension made it much easier and more comfortable to sit and it was more in fitting with the Adirondack style I can get in here now that I have the pieces marked I have the horizontal piece here the piece of the bumhole that we marked we did cut out the curve here and I have the horizontal lines and I'm going to line those up with the verticals and I'll just start on one side I want to clamp as close to the middle as I can when putting some screws in here we can do some adjustments when we need to and I'm going to make the top of that make the top of this piece come to that 13 inch line once everything's secured my lines line up I also want to make sure that my the beat of the front legs are actually going to rest even on the ground so I've done that made my 13 inch mark it lines up and my horizontal lines that I marked also line up now even though we can't use square we are going to make sure that everything is symmetrical for checking some symmetry all I'm going to do is just take some diagonal measurements here that's about 23 and a half and 23 and a and hold it off these dimensions come into play when I'm actually going to assembly now we're also going to check our total distance right now we're just going to secure it with a couple screws on each side for right now I'm using on the number 8 full thread statement steel wood screw and we'll do the same on the other side and there we go next we will install the copper rivets now that we have the H braces made we're ready to the copper rivets it as you can see they're still not real sturdy when you are pretty wobbly the plans themselves actually call for two carriage bolts to go through but I didn't like the look of those so first thing I do is I'm just going to mark a line down the length 3/4 an inch in from each side and then using a tape measure I'm just going to measure up and that should be we're going to measure up from the bottom of the leg and we're going to make a line at 12 and 3/4 excuse me 12 and 1/4 on each one that will be 3/4 inch down from the top yeah or the bottom of the crossmember and that's just under 9 inches well ok about an eighth of an inch under so we're going to go ahead and measure to 9 and 5/8 and we'll make a line we'll do that on both sides then we're going to drill a through hole in each intersection and you want to make sure you drill from the front or put something in there to keep you from blowing out if you blow out the back that's not a big deal now that I've drilled all my holes I'm going to go ahead and sand this area because I don't want to have to sand the rivets if it's kind of a brushed finish on it and I like it when it's more of a bright one smoother now that I've got the area sanded and basically I'm trying to stand until I get to a finish point where I can put the finish on because you really don't see on that too much on these pieces that they are a rustic piece now what I'm going to do is I have these copper nails number nines and they're three inches long what I'm going to do I got the nails from Jamestown distributors which is a marine supply now I'm going to put in a nail in all four corners turn all four holes the reason I do this is I put the rivets on or pound the rivets down and they can distort and move the holes around it'll tighten this joint up quite a bit so by having these in place in advance I don't have to worry about trying to fish it through a hole with a kink in the middle now for an iron underneath this is because called the buck I guess if you riveting someplace else I just have a little piece of railroad iron here that I use as an anvil I want to make sure that that nail head is right on top of that that anvil you will notice that I'll check that make sure that that nail head is on there quite a bit as I'm doing it there's two things you can get with you buy these you can either get what's called robes or burrs and these are called burrs these are basically little copper washers are a little bit smaller diameter than the nail and it works perfect for us the robes are more conical shaped and they're designed to continually tighten as you go but we don't need to concern about that they're also quite a bit more expensive so to drive the bern place typically there are there's a tool called a row but we don't need that right now this is just an old I think it's an axle out of an old motorcycle transmission I'm just going to put that on there and I'm going to drive that down on there ties I can double check make sure I'm good okay once I have it on there tight it's not going anywhere I'm going to take a pair of dikes here and cut this off pretty much flush the top of that in the AL fly is quite a way so you want to be careful and use eye protection so again I'm set in place I'm just going to use a ball peen hammer here I'm gonna hit with a flat side a few times that just gives me a place for the rounded side of it and I'm just going to pin that into a nice little rose head before we get going much further on the project I'm going to stop and take the time to trim off these ears that on the outside of this H brace here it's a lot easier to do it now when it's separated from the chair than it is after it gets assembled just put in the vise and start sawing well here's one of those areas where the learning curve is getting kind of steep for me I accidentally forgot to turn on the mic so I'll kind of walk you through this section of the chair build right now we're selecting the legs for the chair to do this we want to make sure that they're the same width the same curvature and they have the same hoop pattern because this will be seen I'm going to use the template provided in the plans to cut the front of the leg to the correct shape so that it meets the front edge brace accordingly once I've cut the leg to the correct shape I'm going I'm going to thin the end of the leg using a hand plane so that it fits snugly on the horizontal member of the H brace once this is done I will measure my diagonals to make sure that everything is symmetrical and I'll attach a couple of blocks to the work bench to keep everything in place now I'm ready to attach the legs to the front H brace so I'm go ahead and – up – up knife scribed the front of this leg to the chair to make sure that it fits extra fine before I go any farther in the Assembly of the chair I'm going to go ahead and start filling all the holes from the back and from attaching the legs to the H brace if you have children this is a great way to get them involved in the shot I went over to the drill press and started cutting plug holes out of the scrap wood from the previous some previous chairs and I commissioned them to pull the plugs out of the blocks so now because you're going to use a ton of them now I have a couple hundred plugs here that I can use for the chairs that I'm trying to build I'll go ahead and I'll plug those I'll also plug the holes from the pocket drills well with oak plugs one things I like to do when I'm putting the plugs is make sure that I align the grain it's just one of those little things that makes the project look that much much better well that completes this portion of the bill and the next podcast will complete the construction and do a final wrap-up as usual if you have any questions feel free to email me until next time one square you

As found on YouTube

Related Posts