6 common things you might be doing wrong with your table saw

Hey I'd like to point out a few common
mistakes I sometimes see people make when using a table saw and frankly I've
been guilty of some of these myself so I hope this video will serve as a
refresher for all of us correcting these bad habits will help
you get better cleaner cuts and make using your saw safer and if you're
brand new to using a table saw be sure to check out my video Seven Things to
get Started Using a Table Saw in that video you'll get a rundown of safety
procedures and how to make basic cuts also if you're looking for affordable
tool recommendations I want you to download my free guide to outfitting
your shop for under $1000 at mytoollist.com and just so you know I keep
this list updated so my tool picks are current I've got links to all of these
resources down in the description when making a cut it's important to know the
difference between your workpiece and your cut off piece and which piece needs
support usually you want to provide support for the workpiece the part of
the board that you've measured and are using for your project when
cross-cutting using your miter gauge that'll look something like this what
happens is sometimes the non-supported side stops moving through the blade and
you won't get a clean cut an exception is when using a stop block
on your rip fence to make repeated cuts on small pieces where you'll be
supporting the cutoff side it's not really a problem but you might
need to clean up those little splintery corners you definitely don't want to try
setting up a stop block on your miter gauge for cutting multiple small pieces
most of the board will be unsupported which could cause it to tip and it
places your fingers way too close to the blade a better solution to all of this
is to make yourself a crosscut sled this jig will give you cleaner more accurate
cross cuts and both sides of the wood are fully supported throughout the
entire cut when using your rip fence to cut a wide board you almost always want
your workpiece to be on the side between the blade and the fence
it can be tempting to guide the sheet from the cut off side but as soon as the
cut is made you're putting lateral pressure on the saw blade instead of the
fence this can cause the board to bind and lead to cuts that aren't square
instead support the workpiece and keep the pressure against the fence not the
blade I'm sure you already know the importance of pushing wood through your
table saw using something other than your fingers your table saw probably
came with one of these a push stick which is a good starting point but a lot
of people use it wrong for starters one push stick isn't enough you need two one
to push the lumber forward through the blade and the other to keep the wood
press downward and against the fence for a safe and effective cut using your rip
fence there are three directions of pressure you need to provide on every
cut forward downward and inward to use push tips use the cleat on one to push
the board forward and a second push stick to press down and toward the fence
and do this only on the front side of the blade once the board is cut you
don't want to press inwards on the blade an improvement would be a push stick
like this that provides better downward pressure but you still need a push stick
to press inward in order to ensure an accurate cut you
can make this with just a scrap of plywood to make it even simpler I've
included a free cutting template you can download there's a link in the
description but of course my favorite option is the gripper a push a block I
want to point out that micro jig is no longer a sponsor of my show or this
video but I love them and I honestly feel the gripper is absolutely the best
way to get accurate and safe cuts not only does that green grippy stuff allow
you to easily press the workpiece in all three directions but it also supports
the off cut side look it's kind of a luxury tool but it'll definitely improve
your cut and keep you a lot safer don't ever try this always provide support
with a fits okay this is kind of a minor one but we've all done this you replace
the blade you put the nut back on the arbor what do you do you totally crank
down that nut because we don't want that blade flying off right I mean that would
make for a really bad day then what happens and we want to try to remove
that nut it feels like it's just used on there so we pull and pull with all our
bite and it breaks loose all at once and what happens your knuckles go crashing
into your table or worse into the blade itself and that hurts I've done it so
the tip here is when you're installing a blade just crank down that nut until it
stops you don't need a lot of tightening pressure on it don't worry the blade
isn't going anywhere the blade spins in the opposite direction of the threads on
the arbor so the nut is sort of self tightening in a way the basic rule here
is to support the long side of the board not the short side if the board seems to
want to wobble a little bit you want to use
your miter gauge instead anything that can cause the wood to tip a little bit
opens up the possibility of a skewed cut or worse yet the danger of kickback

As found on YouTube

Related Posts