5 DIY Wooden Drawer Pulls | How to Make Cabinet Handles

What's up guys, I'm Brad Rodriguez from Fix This Build That and today I'm going to show you how to make five DIY wooden drawer pulls now. The design possibilities are almost endless now I'm going to show you what I did with just a few tools and then how I added in different tools and techniques to get Different shapes and designs and some pretty cool drawer pulls stay tuned. I'll show you exactly how I did it Before getting to the final five designs that I made in cherry, I was prototyping and trying out different profiles using Baltic birch plywood All the material I used is three quarters of an inch thick And I cut 1" wide and 1-1/4" wide strips for the pulls. All these drawer pulls are broken up either to a bar style which you can just grasp or a finger pull that has a little recess underneath for your fingers and the first one all you really need to make this is some sandpaper An orbital sander is going to help make it faster.

As long as you can get the stock. You can do this. It's super simple to Make the simple bar pulls I used one of the 1-inch wide strips and cut it into five and a quarter inch pieces on the miter saw I took one piece and drilled holes in it for some details. So it wasn't so plain. I really didn't like the look of it after all To get the rounded edges I used an orbital sander and I sanded it back until I hit a layout line that I had drawn on the corners Then I broke all the edges and rounded everything over with some hand sanding with 150 grit sandpaper For the final design, I stayed with just the simple bar with rounded corners and no frills not like the way it looks for the second drawer pull I added another tool to the mix a table saw You can tilt the blade on the table saw and it gives you the ability to make some cool angled cuts for a nice modern And sleek design.

These would look great in a kitchen as well as your shop The modern angled bar pull is shaped with a single cut on each side I tilted the table saw blade to 15 degrees and grabbed another 1 inch wide strip. I Positioned the blade to leave the full 1 inch width on the front face and taper backwards I made a pass on each side at this setting I moved the fence out a little and ran another strip through leaving the top third of the sides flat to see how it looked It's another option, but I like the full angled sides better Now you can stop here But I wanted to add the bevels to the ends as well for some more detail to see how it looked I put a fresh sacrificial fence on my miter gauge and I cut through it at a 15 degree setup Now this gave me a reference line to cut the pulls with After the first cut I measured over five and a quarter inches and clamped a stop block in place I flipped the pool around and I made the bevel on the other end Now I could just knock out as many of these as I needed to with one easy setup.

I went with this design with the angled ends for the final cherry piece and this is definitely my favorite bar style pull For the third drawer pull. I stayed the table saw but it's a little more complex a few more setup cuts But it gives you a nice little finger relief underneath the drawer pull It's a really modern look and I like it a lot again. It would look great inside your house as well as the shop. I started by bringing the blade back to 90 degrees and set the depth to a half an inch Then I set my fence to a quarter inch from the blade.

I used one in the quarter inch wide strips and ran them through on edge using pressure against the side and the top to keep them flush to the fence To set up the second cut. I raise the blade and tilted it to 15 degrees. I positioned the fence to take a cut off the top of the pool, but leave the back full sized Then I ran the pull through making the top relief cut and was left with this profile I'll use a third cut to release the finger relief on the pull. I lowered the blade until the tallest point the saw blade hit the underside of the cut that I'd already made Then I line up the blade to hit the edge of the kerf already in the pull as well I ran it through if you've got a keen eye you can see that the cut wasn't perfect So make sure you run plenty of scrap pieces for setup and save your good material for when the cut is tuned in.

I Set the blade back to 90 degrees and use the stop block again to cut the pulls to size. I like this design and if you angle the outsides, it could look pretty cool, too Let's head on over to the router table now for the fourth drawer pull I went to the router table with a router table You can add all kinds of different designs and do more than you can do with just a handheld router I used a cove bit and a round over bit to make this shape. Let's see how we did it JET Woodworking , the sponsor of today's video Recently came out with this new router table and they sent it over for me to try out and I am pumped about this cast Iron top with the above the table a bit changing and height adjustments this thing as I'll have a link in the description Where you can find out more about this router table and a big thanks to JET for sponsoring this video I'm making the first cuts on this bar pole with a half-inch cove bit I unplug the router and then I raised up the lift and installed the cove bit in the Chuck I set the bit to a half-inch high using my combination square Then I used an eighth of an inch spacer to set the fence for the side cuts Now the fence has a micro adjust feature which is great for tuning in little increments to get just the right setting I Locked down the fence Plug the router back in and then I made a pass on both sides of a one inch wide strip of Baltic birch Like the angled bar pulls I wanted to see how the pool looked with flat cut ends and also with the profile ends So I got out my miter gauge and I ran each end through at the same setting now Let me give you a tip here when you're routing in green the plywood doesn't have ingrain because the plies alternate back and forth But when I ran the cherry through doing the long edges first, and then the ends the end grain blew out and it looked horrible So to solve this route the end grain first Then the edges the blowout on the end grain is going to get cleaned up by the second pass on the sides now Here's the first piece on the left where I had the blowout and then on the right when I did the in grain first big difference for the top I switched over to a quarter inch roundover bit and set it up to take a full cut I had to use the fence here because the recessed sides didn't touch the bearing I Ran the pulls through on each side and after looking at that flat sided pool versus the full profile pull I definitely liked the full profile better This is a more traditional look but you can change that with all kinds of different bits and customize it your own way for the fifth drawer pull I stayed at the router table and then I also finished it off at the table saw to add some nice angles into it So we've got some curves and some angles.

I really like how this one turned out This is actually my favorite and it's one I've used in past projects. Let's see how we did it I started this pull off the same way as the last one with a half inch cove bit I set the bit height to a half inch but this time I positioned the fence For about a quarter-inch cut on the underside of a one and a quarter inch wide strip.

I Took one pass and then I moved the fence over a little more and took off more material for the finger recess Since the top of the cove bit isn't flat it leaves some little ridges there on the pull To get rid of them and straighten up the finger recess I flipped the pool on its back and lowered the bit to match the finger recess that I'd already cut. I Ran the pull through and if you couldn't tell already the dust collection on this router table is awesome Adding the round over to the pull is pretty straightforward I just switched over the bits and then ran a full three eighths of an inch round over on the top of the handle to Give it a nice refined look To add just a little more detail to this pull I took it to the table saw and I cut 15 degree bevels on each end Again here using the kerf cuts in the miter gauge to line everything up.

i Really like how this last one turned out is for sure my favorite If you're wondering how to mount these pull you can do it pretty easily Just find the center of the back of the pull then mark spots three inches apart with a ruler then drill a small pilot hole In each spot and you can use wood screws through the drawer front to attach the handles You can also install machine screw inserts if you really wanted to get fancy If you want to check out another video, I got another one queued up for you right there Go ahead and check it out But I hope these door pulls give you some ideas of your own leave a comment down below Let me know which one you like the best if you're not subscribed to the channel already I'd love to have you as part of the team and until next time guys get out there and build something awesome.

As found on YouTube

Related Posts